EASY  LESSORS  FOi&  THE 


AMATEUR  PHOTOGRAPHER, 

HENRY  OLAY  PRICE. 


®— - : - — - a 

M.  A.  SEED  DRY  PLATE  CO’S 

PYRO  AND  SAL  SODA  DEVELOPER. 


MARCH,  1887- 

PYRO  STOCK  SOLUTION. 

Sulphite  Soda  Crystals,  -  ■  6  ounces, 

(Or  Granulated,  4  ozs.) 

Pyrogallic  Acid,  -  1  * 

Water  (Ice  or  Distilled),  16  * 


SAL  SODA  STOCK  SOLUTION. 

Sal  Soda, . 4  ounces. 

Water,  - . 10  “  • 

TO  DEVELOP. 

Just  before  development,  add  to  six,  eight  or  ten 
onnces/  of  water,  one  ounce  of  Pyro  Solution  and  one 
ounce  of  Sal  Soda  Solution. 


Xote. — The  amount  of  water  used  depends  upon  its  tempera¬ 
ture.  If  ice  water  is  used,  6  ounces  will  be  right.  If  the  water  is 
over  sixty  degrees,  8  ounces  should  be  used.  If  over  eighty  degrees, 
10  ounces.  We  prefer  cool  development,  as  it  gives  the  finest  effect. 


THIS  DEVELOPER 


may  be  used  repeatedly,  but  will  work  slower  and  with 
more  intensity  when  old.  Therefore,  the  fresh  developer 
is  best  for  short  exposure,  and  the  old  is  better  if  the 
plate  has  been  fully  timed.  In  using  the  Sal  Soda  Devel¬ 
oper  it  is  very  important  to  carry  the  development  far 
enough,  until  the  lights  have  sufficient  intensity  when 
examining  the  plate  by  transmitted  light. 

The  quantity  of  Pyro  must  be  according  to  the  density 
of  the  negative  wanted* 

If  the  negative  is  too  strong,  use  less  Pyro.  If  not 
strong  enough,  more. 


FIXING  BATH. 

Alum,  -----  -  £  oz. 

Hyposulphite  of  Soda,  .  -  -  5  ozs. 

Water,  -  -  1  pint. 

Filter, 

Leave  the  plates  a  few  minutes  longer  in  the  bath  than 
they  require  for  fixing.  This  is  important,  as  the  per¬ 
manency  of  the  negative  depends  upon  it. 


» 


DEFECTS  IN  DRY  PLATE  NEGATIVES  AND  THEIR 
REMEDIES. 


Want  of  Detail  in  Lights  and  Shadows. 

It  is  generally  supposed  to  be  due  to  under  exposure, 
hzA  this  is  not  always  the  case.  For  instance,  I  expose  a 
plate  four  seconds.  It  develops  in  from  one  to  two-and  a- 
haif  minutes,  and  the  result  is  with  the  above  defect.  It  is 
a  proof  that  I  have  used  more  Pyro  than  the  plate 
required.  Nowl  will  try  again.  I  take  a  plate  out  of  the 
same  box,  give  three  seconds  exposure,  use  only  half  the 
amount  of  Pyro  Stock  Solution  to  the  usual  amount  of  Sal 
Soda  Stock  Solution,  and  the  negative  will  develop  in 
three  or  three-and-a-half  minutes ;  result,  a  fine  negative  in 
definitions  and  brilliancy.  On  the  other  hand,  a  negative 
may  have  precisely  the  same  appearance  as  the  foregoing 
one,  but  it  took  from  five  to  ten  minutes  to  develop.  Try 
another  and  you  double  the  amount  of  exposure. 

Granularity  of  Negative. 

This  defect  generally  appears  during  the  warm  weather. 
There  are  two  causes— one  the  result  of  insufficient  mixing 
of  the  developer  before  pouring  over  the  plate,  especially 
if  too  strong  and  too  high  temperature.  Eemedy — Dilute 
the  developer  with  water  one-third,  or  use  ice- water  with¬ 
out  the  dilution. 


Another  cause  is  the  fixing  bath  being  too  milky, 
inrough  containing  too  much  alum.  Kemedy — Never  use 
a  fixing  bath  which  is  muddy.  Filter  it. 


5v 


FLATNESS  OR  WANT  OF  HIGH  LIGHTS  IN  NEG¬ 
ATIVES. 

This  generally  is  due  to  overtiming.  The  more  rapid 
the  plate,  the  less  latitude  you  have  in  time  of  exposure* 
A  slower  plate  always  gives  a  wider  range.  Too  much 
Sal  Soda  produces  flatness,  also  a  developer  weak  in  pyrOo 


Small,  Round,  Sharply  Defined  Transparent  Spots. 

Some  photographers  wet  their  plates  before  applying 
|  the  developer.  If  this  is  not  thoroughly  done,  air  bubbles 
I  will  be  formed  on  the  surface,  and  hence  cause  the  spoti 
above  referred  to*  With  our  plates  wetting  is  un¬ 
necessary. 

Another  cause  of  similar  spots  is  using  water  for  the 
developer  which  contains  vegetable  matter,  causing  it  to 
bubble  more  or  less  while  pouring  it  on  the  plates.  Rem¬ 
edy — Use  only  ice  or  distilled  water. 

*  On  account  of  the  extreme  rapidity  of  our  plates, 
great  care  should  be  taken  that  they  are  developed  in  a 
suitable  light. 

Test. — Expose  one-half  of  a  plate  three  minutes  to 
your  light  in  developing  room  and  develop.  If  the  part 
exposed  is  as  clear  as  the  unexposed  part  your  light  is 
j  safe.  Respectfully, 

M.  A.  SEED  DRY  PLATE  CO. 

a— - - - - — { 


ot, /*■<*«*£ 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2018  with  funding  from 
Getty  Research  Institute 


\ 


https://archive.org/details/howtomakepicture00pric_1 


PICTURES  MADE  BY 

AMATEUR  PHOTOGRAPHERS, 

With  Seovill’s  Detective  Camera. 


With  Waterbury  Lens  Accompanying 

SCOVILL’S  TEN  DOLLAR  OUTFIT. 


How  to  Make  Pictures: 


EASY  LESSONS 


FOR  THE 

fifneitewp  P8@t©grapfle;r 


BY 

HENRY  CLAY  PRICE. 


’“  eoitrtb:  ekmtion. 


NEW  YORK: 

SCO V ILL  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY. 
W.  Irving  Adams,  Agent. 

1887. 


CONTENTS. 


Introductory  Chapter, 

PAGE 

.  5 

CHAPTER  I. 

Description  of  Apparatus,  the  Cheapest  and  also  the  Finest,  -  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Filling  the  Plate  Holders  in  the  Darkened  Room,  -  -  -  -  18 


Taking  the  Picture, 

CHAPTER  III. 

. 22 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Development  of  Gelatine  Plates, . 26 


Fixing  Gelatine  Plates, 

CHAPTER  V. 

.  30 

Varnishing  the  Negative, 

CHAPTER  VI. 

.  -  -  -  83 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Printing  from  the  Negative,  -  . . 36 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Toning  and  Fixing  Prints — Blue  Prints  :  How  to  Make  them,  -  -  39 


s  'S-^hOj 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Trimming  and  Mounting  Prints, . 42 

CHAPTER  X. 

Transparencies,  Magic  Lantern  Slides,  and  Enlargements,  -  -  -  46 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Instantaneous  Photography,  --------  51 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Photography  with  the  Microscope,  -------  55 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Stereoscopic  Pictures  :  How  to  Make  and  Mount  them,  -  -  -  59 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Useful  Information,  treating  on  varied  topics,  Fogging  among  them  ; 

also  giving  Tables  of  Weights  and  Measures,  -  -  -  -  62 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Orthochromatic  Methods,  ---------  71 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Paper  Negatives:  The  Apparatus,  and  How  to  Use  it;  also  Film 

Carriers  for  Use  with  Dry  Plate  Holders, . 76 


‘  There  is  a  pleasure  in  the  pathless  woods, 

There  is  a  rapture  on  the  lonely  shore, 

There  is  society  where  none  intrudes, 

By  the  deep  sea,  and  music  in  its  roar  ; 

I  love  not  man  the  less,  but  nature  more, 

From  these  our  interviews,  in  which  I  steal 
From  all  I  may  be,  or  have  been  before, 

To  mingle  with  the  universe,  and  feel 

What  I  can  ne’er  express,  yet  cannot  all  conceal.” 


For  many  years  amateur  photography  has  been  held  in 
high  estimation  throughout  Great  Britain,  as  a  means  of  recre¬ 
ation  by  men  eminent  in  the  law,  in  literature,  and  in  science. 
The  introduction  into  America  of  gelatine  plates  made  possible 
the  production  of  the  highest  class  pictures  through  the 
medium  of  an  outfit  so  light  in  weight  that  many  of  the  fair 
sex  have  become  expert  in  its  use.  More  recreation  combined 
with  invigorating  exercise  is  needed  in  this  country,  and 
amateur  photography  presents  the  highest  claim  for  consider¬ 
ation,  as  it  is  pleasant,  educating  and  health  giving,  without  the 
danger  of  over  exertion  which  attend  many  forms  of  out-door 
exercise.  It  is  a  sure  cure  for  mental  weariness,  and  no  one, 
whether  young  or  old,  who  has  an  artistic  appreciation  of  the 
beautiful  while  sauntering  through  green  fields  or  by  the  river 
side  with  the  eye  alert  for  the  picturesque,  ever  discovering, 


VI 


comparing  and  admwing,  can  fail  to  be  interested  in  the  prac¬ 
tice  of  this  refined  accomplishment.  It  aids  the  student  in 
the  study  of  botany,  mineralogy,  and  what  not  ?  and  enables 
him  to  make  comparison  with  others  separated  from  him  by 
distance. 

Wide-awake  correspondents  and  authors  now  enclose  with 
their  manuscript  and  send  to  the  publisher  photographic  prints 
or  negatives  from  which  engravings  are  made  for  the  illustra¬ 
tion  of  their  articles  or  stories.  To-day  the  best  magazines 
and  dailies  have  their  “  artist  on  the  spot,”  equipped  with  a 
photographic  outfit.  Renowned  artists  with  a  camera  which 
looks  like  a  hand-satchel,  photograph  without  exciting  the  sus¬ 
picion  of  the  unconscious  subject,  the  beautiful,  quaint,  or  re¬ 
pulsive  features  which,  in  due  time,  will  be  copied  on  canvas. 
There  are  many  who  are  connoisseurs  of  art ;  artists  they 
would  be,  but  cannot,  as  not  even  the  pencil  will  do  their  bid¬ 
ding.  Commend  to  them  the  camera,  which  will  treasure 
what  they  longed  to  be  able  to  represent.  Similarly  equip¬ 
ped  the  detective  is  more  than  ever  to  be  feared  by  the  crim¬ 
inal.  Architects,  manufacturers,  real  estate  or  insurance 
agents,  and  men  engaged  in  other  branches  of  business  em¬ 
ploy  the  Camera  for  a  variety  of  purposes. 

Photographs  of  the  gems  of  scenery  to  be  found  in  foreign 
lands,  or  discovered  about  the  old  hillside  farm  during  the 
summer  holidays,  add  to  the  attraction  of  the  home,  and  are 
prized  for  the  reminiscences  which  are  associated  with  each 
one.  These  pictures  are  handsomely  framed  or  gathered  in 
portfolios  and  albums,  and  no  power  of  description  compares 
with  them.  From  the  same  negatives,  transparencies  may  be 
made  or  magic  lantern  slides.  As  the  latter  are  prepared  with 
so  little  trouble,  a  form  of  parlor  entertainment  has  been  in¬ 
troduced  which  consists  of  the  employment  of  a  magic  lantern 
or  stereopticon,  and  the  exhibition  to  a  circle  of  friends  of  the 
pictures  made  and  finished  by  the  amateur  himself. 

The  requirements  for  making  stereoscopic  pictures  or 
photographs  of  microscopic  objects  are  simple  and  quite 
inexpensive.  For  instantaneous  photography  one  needs  but 


Vll 


to  substitute  a  quick  workiug  lens  with  a  drop  or  shutter 
for  the  one  in  ordinary  use,  and  to  provide  himself  with  extra 
sensitive  plates,  and  the  impressions  of  vessels  under  full  sail, 
horses  speeding  around  a  race  course,  or  even  trains  under 
full  headway  are  fixed  on  the  sensitive  film  of  the  plates  as 
though  the  fleeting  panorama  had  been  instantly  arrested. 
There  are  simple  methods  for  copying  manuscripts,  engrav¬ 
ings,  and  for  enlarging  small  pictures.  To  show  a  house,  a 
bit  of  real  estate,  cattle,  horses,  or  a  pile  of  logs ;  a  piece  of 
mechanism  or  machinery  ;  any  new  design  of  furniture,  hang¬ 
ings,  carpets,  or  ten  thousand  other  objects,  by  means  of  pho¬ 
tography,  when  other  methods  would  be  quite  expensive  or 
unavailable,  is  a  happy  subterfuge.  Pictures  were  the  sym¬ 
bols  earliest  used  to  express  thought  unuttered,  and  they  ever 
have  been  the  language  universal  of  the  world. 


How  to  Make  Pictures. 


CHAPTEK  I. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  APPARATUS. 

It  has  been  the  fortune  of  the  writer  to  instruct  many 
pupils  in  the  lessons  of  amateur  photography,  and  all  of  the 
success  that  has  been  attained  must  be  due  to  the  use  of  sim¬ 
ple  but  explicit  language.  In  these  chapters  I  shall  try  to 
leave  nothing  to  be  guessed  at,  nor  any  chance  for  doubt ;  but 
beyond  the  line  of  actual  experience  and  knowledge  I  shall 
not  venture,  hence  the  apparatus  or  other  parts  of  an  outfit 
here  described  or  mentioned  will  he  such  as  I  am  familiar 
with  through  use,  and  known  to  me  to  he  reliable — per¬ 
fectly  so. 

In  selecting  such  articles — having  learned  by  experience  the 
importance,  the  necessity ,  of  a  good  equipment — I  ask  every 
amateur  to  purchase  what  is  warranted  by  a  house  of  known 
standing  and  veracity.* 

In  taking  pictures  the  negative  is  secured.  This  passes 
through  the  various  stages  of  development,  and  then  the  prints 
are  made,  which  are  mounted  upon  card-hoard  to  suit  the 


*  This  caution  would  not  be  given  if  worthless  outfits  had  not  been 
thrust  upon  the  unwary  to  their  great  dissappointment  and  to  the  detriment 
of  reliable  articles. 


14 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


taste.  The  first  operation— -that  of  producing  the  negative — 
is  all  that  need  he  done  at  once.  The  other  operations  are 
subject  to  the  pleasure  and  convenience  of  the  amateur.  The 
accompanying  illustration  shows  all  that  is  needed  to  be  car¬ 
ried  about,  and  the  comfort  and  ease  with 
which  it  is  done. 

In  the  case  may  be  found  a  lens,  the  camera 
and  holders,  and  the  focusing  cloth,  while  in 
the  same  hand  is  grasped  a  tripod  neatly  folded 
up,  which  may  be  used  in  this  shape  as  a 
helper  when  climbing  steep  ascents,  or  pos¬ 
sibly  as  a  means  of  defence  from  obtrusive 
dogs  in  wayside  orchards. 

By  way  of  contrast  with  the  careless,  easy 
attitude  of  this  figure,  glance  at  that  of 
the  old  veteran,  as  lie  moved  wearily  and 
heavily  laden,  to  practice  his  beloved  art* 
If  seen  now  with  his  old-time  luggage,  it 
would  be  averred  that  he  had  been  de¬ 
tained  by  a  twenty  years’  sleep  with 
Hendrick  Hudson’s  crew. 

A  Good  Apparatus  Outfit  — 

Less  than  four  years  ago  it  was  an¬ 
nounced  that  a  good  outfit,  every  article 
of  it  warranted,  consisting  of  a  camera, 
with  accompanying  double  dry-plate 
holder,  for  making  pictures  4x5  inches, 
a  single  achromatic  lens,  a  carrying  case 
in  which  to  stow  away  and  transport  the 
camera,  plate  holders  and  lens,  and  a  tripod,  would  henceforth 
be  sold  for  $10. 

The  price  astonished  every  one,  photographers  especially, 
although  the  outfits  of  this  kind  were  designed  particularly  for 
the  use  of  amateurs. 

“  Think,”  said  they,  “  of  procuring  a  serviceable  lens  alone 
for  that  sum.” 


DESCRIPTION  OF  APPARATUS. 


15 


Since  tlie  introduction  of  the  cheap  outfits,  I  have  seen,  in 
the  busy  city  of  Waterbury,  pile  upon  pile  of  lens  tubes 
with  the  name  “  Waterbury” 
stamped  upon  them,  every 
one  perfect  in  finish.  When 
brought  into  use  and  tested 
by  experts,  these  lenses 
have  proved  to  be  possessed 
of  something  more  than 
beauty.  They  are  not  mere 
toys,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
are  of  the  highest  class,  and 
marvels  of  cheapness.  (Quite 
recently  stops  have  been  made  and  introduced  into  the  various 
sizes  of  the  Waterbury  lenses.)  Not  one  of  them  has  ever 
been  sent  back  to  the  makers  as  falling  short  of  what  it  is  guar¬ 
anteed  to  do,  and  therefore  I  give  this  part  of  the  outfit  par¬ 
ticular  attention. 

Naturally,  when  one  has  discovered  the  object  or  chosen  the 
scene  that  he  is  desirous  of  photographing,  the  carrying  case 

is  set  down,  and  then  follows  the 
//  undoing  and  setting  up  of  the 

H  \  Taylor  tripod  on  which  the  camera 

H  ,  \  is  to  be  placed  and  fastened.  This 

II  \  tripod  is  firm  while  in  position,  and 

/  In  \  compact  when  folded  up,  and  none 
J  V  \  has  ever  been  made  to  excel  it  in 
/  \  these  properties. 

/  \  Its  three  legs  of  maple  are  com- 

/  I  A  posed  of  three  pieces  hinged  to- 

/  gether.  To  set  it  up,  unfold  the 

m  two  outside  pieces  of  a  leg,  bending 

them  back  toward  each  other  un- 

Fig  2 

til  the  two  dowel  pins  in  the  third 
piece  fit  into  the  two  holes  in  the  outer  joints.  Of  course  this 
is  repeated  with  each  leg.  Then  press  together  the  two  nearly 
parallel  pieces,  and  hold  the  brass  top  (which  is  usually  packed 


Fig.  1. 


16 


HOW  TO  MA.KE  PICTUKES. 


inside  of  the  carrying  case),  so  that  two  of  its  pins  will  enter 
the  holes  or  sockets  on  the  outer  side  of  the  joints ;  release  the 

pressure,  and  the  leg  will  he 
fastened  to  the  top.  Thus,  also, 
arrange  the  two  remaining 
legs,  and  the  tripod  is  ready 
for  its  burden.  A  few  turns 
of  the  screw  will  bind  the 
camera  firmly  to  the  tripod. 
Fig.  3  shows  their  appearance ; 
while  beneath,  as  a  contrast, 
are  seen  the  folded  tripod  and 
the  carrying  case  holding  the 
balance  of  the  outfit. 

The  Favorite  Camera  is  as 
light  as  is  consistent  with 
stability,  and  is  compact  when 
folded.  In  addition  to  the 
folding  platform  it  is  provided 
with  the  vertical  shifting  front, 
and  swing  back;  also  the  patent 
latch  for  fastening  the  plat¬ 
form.  The  dry-plate  holder 
fitted  to  the  Favorite  Camera  has  kits  for  making  smaller- 


Fig.  8. 


SCOVILL  FAVORITE  OUTFIT,  COMPLETE. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  APPARATUS. 


17 


sized  pictures  when  it  is  desirable  to  do  so,  and  has  the  regis¬ 
tering  or  so-called  u  record  ”  slides  described  in  Chapter  III. 

In  every  respect  these  cameras  are  neat,  good  and  service¬ 
able.  So  it  is  with  the  rest  of  the  outfit.  The  jury  at  the 
American  Institute  examined  them  in  connection  with  the 
more  showy  apparatus,  and  their  award  of  excellence  covers 
both  grades.  (Extract  from  the  judge’s  report  at  the  Insti¬ 
tute  on  the  apparatus  just  described:  “ Nothing  superior 
to  it  can  be  found  anywhere.  For  the  attention  given  to 
outfits  for  amateurs ,  their  benefit  to  the  young,  especially  in 
the  direction  of  encouraging  art  studies  and  a  better  appre¬ 
ciation  of  nature's  beauties ;  for  this ,  as  well  as  the  whole 
exhibit ,  we  recommend  that  a  medal  of  superiority  be 
awarded ,”  etc.,  etc.) 

Many  an  amateur  makes  a  beginning  with  one  of  the  cheap 
outfits,  and,  having  achieved  success,  chooses  something  finer 
and  higher  priced. 

Some  there  are  who  have  but  little  time  for  recreation,  and 
they  will  not  care  to  expend  more  than  a  small  sum ;  but 
amateur  photography  is  a  luring  art,  and  the  desire  is  easily 
awakened  for  the  gems  of  the  camera-maker’s  skill.  A  feel¬ 
ing  of  pride  concerning  the  equipment  used,  and  emulation 
similar  to  that  which  has  led  to  the  construction  of  superbly 
finished  yachts,  is  sure  to  be  aroused  among  patrons  of  cul¬ 
ture,  leisure,  and  wealth. 


CHAPTER  II. 


FILLING  THE  PLATE  HOLDERS. 


Before  starting  out  to  take  pictures,  the  plate  holders  must 
be  filled  with  gelatine  plates.  Some  of  them  hold  two,  and 
hence,  if  but  two  views  are  to  be  taken  before  the  return,  it 
will  be  best  to  fill  but  a  single  holder.  If  the  amateur  thinks 
to  secure  more  than  two  picture  impressions,  he  must  govern 
himself  accordingly  in  putting  sensitive  plates  into  the  hold¬ 
ers.  As  it  is  essential  that  this  operation  of  filling  the  holders 
should  be  done  in  a  room  or  closet  where  all  other  than  ruby 
light  is  excluded,  bear  this  fact  in  mind  before  leaving  your 
base  of  supplies.  It  frequently  occurs  that  an  amateur  away 
from  home  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  has  no  chance 
of  darkening  a  room  sufficiently  in  which  to  develop  the  ex¬ 
posed  plates,  or  to  refill  his  holders.  In  this  case  he  must 
provide  himself  before  starting  with  a  number  of  holders 
filled  with  gelatine  plates. 

The  exclusion  of  white  light  from  the  room  in  which  the 
plates  are  either  placed  in  the  holder,  or  afterward  developed  y 
should  be  both  emphasized  and  italicised.  After  you  have 
closed  the  door  and  believe  the  room  to  be  dark,  do  not  rest 
satisfied ;  stuff  the  chinks  and  crannies.  Overhead,  under¬ 
neath,  everywhere,  stop  out  the  light.  Look  through  the 
keyhole !  there  may  not  be  a  reporter  outside,  but  there  is  as 
great  an  inquisitor  who  must  be  barred  out,  and  it  can  be  done 
effectually.  Having  faithfully  attended  to  the  imperative 
duty  of  securing  perfect  darkness,  welcome  the  light  which  will 
not  injure  the  sensitive  film  on  the  plates.  This  can  be  ad¬ 
mitted  from  without  by  light  shining  through  a  pane  of  ruby 
glass,  or  ruby  paper  over  white  glass ;  but  the  more  common 


FILLING  THE  PLATE  HOLDERS. 


19 


and  preferable  light  is  that  from  one  of  the  ruby  lanterns 
designed  especially  for  this  purpose  (see  Fig.  4) ;  so  1  will 
suppose  you  are  provided  with  one.* 

Put  a  light  in  it  and  close  it  up. 
Now,  take  a  package  of  gelatine 
plates  and  carefully  cut  away  the 
original  wrapper  in  which  they  are 
put  up  by  the  maker.  Do  this  in 
such  a  way  as  to  leave  the  brand  or 
label  on  the  cover  of  the  box.  Take 
the  telescopic  lid  off  the  box,  lift 
out  the  package  inside,  undo  the 
other  paper  wrapper,  and  you  have 
now  come  to  the  glass  plates,  with 
one  side  sensitized,  which  were 
packed  with  tissue  paper  between 
them. 

Take  out  a  plate,  handling  it  as 
shown  in  Fig.  5,  which  is  the  proper  way,  and  dust  off  its 
glossy  sensitive  surface  very  gently  with  a  camePs-hair  brush. 
This  is  done  to  guard  against  the  possibility  of  any  speck  or 
particle  of  dust  being  on  its  surface,  the 
presence  of  which  would  eventually  make 
a  spot  or  defect  in  the  finished  picture. 

It  would  not  be  amiss  to  dust  off  both 
sides  of  the  plate. 

If  you  cannot  detect  the  surface  hav¬ 
ing  the  coating  of  gelatine  otherwise, 
hold  the  plate  between  you  and  the  ruby 
lantern,  and  you  will  then  perceive  which 
side  has  been  coated.  Be  careful  to  keep 
everything  but  the  camePs-hair  brush  away  from  the  surface 
of  the  gelatine  plate. 

Take  up,  with  the  left  hand,  one  of  the  double  plate  hold- 

*  The  Scovill  Peerless  Lantern  has  recently  been  introduced.  It  is 
more  expensive  than  the  one  here  illustrated,  but  has  far  greater  illumin¬ 
ating  power 


20 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


ers,  A,  shown  in  Fig,  6,  and  pull  out  the  slide  G,  laying 
it  to  one  side.  In  one  of  the  outer  grooves  of  the  holder  place 
a  gelatine  plate,  with  its  sensitive  side  facing  out.  Fig.  7 
represents  the  end  of  a  Scovill  Patent  Plate  Holder,  and  the 
shaded  portion  depicts  the  sensitive  plate,  while  the  dark  lines 
denote  the  position  of  the  sensitive  surface. 


Fig.  6.  Fig.  7. 


Take  up  another  gelatine  plate,  or  rather  handle  it  now  like 
an  expert,  and  place  it  in  the  remaining  unfilled  outside  groove 
of  the  holder.  Be  sure  to  have  the  sensitive  side  face  outward. 
Insert  the  slide  G  in  the  central  groove  of  the  holder,  as  indi¬ 
cated  in  Fig.  6,  and  push  it  clear  in  to  the  stopper.  If  the 
springs  on  this  piece  catch  on  the  edges  of  the  plates,  bring  a 
slight  pressure  to  bear  on  them  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger 
of  the  left  hand,  which  will  remove  the  trouble  and  permit 
the  slide  to  be  forced  in  to  its  hilt  or  so-called  “  stopper.” 

See  if  the  slides  B  B  (thus  denoted  in  Fig.  6)  are  pushed  in 
also.  The  purpose  of  the  slide  0  is  to  keep  light  from  passing 
through  from  one  plate  to  the  other  during  the  time  the  first 
plate  is  going  through  the  operation  commonly  called  “  taking 
the  picture.”  Fogging  is  thus  again  avoided. 

Another  mission  of  the  slide  G  is  to  keep  the  plates  in  focus 
by  means  of  the  springs  on  its  surface.  When  all  of  the  slides 
are  pushed  in  as  far  as  they  were  designed  to  go,  the  holder 
should  be  absolutely  light-tight.  It  should  not  only  be 
so  when  it  is  sold,  but  it  ought  to  remain  so,  and  “  there’s 
the  rub”  with  a  cheap  holder.  A  good  holder  is  a  prime  fac- 


FILLING  THE  PLATE  HOLDERS. 


21 


tor  of  an  outfit  of  sterling  worth.  Better  have  none  at  all 
than  a  poor  one. 

But  to  recur,  the  slide  G  should  only  be  taken  out  in  order 
to  remove  the  gelatine  plates  ready  for  development,  or  to 
place  fresh  ones  in  the  holder,  and  the  slides  B  B  only  drawn 
out  during  an  exposure. 

The  Daisy  Dry  Plate  Holder  more  recently  introduced  has 

become  equally  popular  with 
the  old  pattern.  It  opens 
like  a  book  when  the  dry 
plates  are  being  put  into  or 
taken  out  of  it,  and  is  so 
arranged  that  light  cannot 
penetrate  from  one  side  to 
the  other.  Kits  of  lesser 
sizes  may  be  carried  in  the  outside  frame,  which  permits  two 
plates  of  different  sizes  to  be  used  in  such  a  holder. 

After  filling  the  plate  holder  or,  if  you  so  choose,  several  of 
them,  rewrap  the  remaining  gelatine  plates  of  the  undone 
package,  put  them  in  the  card-board  box,  replace  the  cover, 
and  hide  away  the  plates  from  their  arch  enemy,  white  light 
so  great  a  blessing  elsewhere.  It  is  time  to  come  out  of  seclu¬ 
sion,  so  throw  open  the  door  and  put  out  the  lantern  light. 
There  are  worlds  you  are  sighing  to  conquer.  Away  !  be  off 
to  them,  and  study  what  each  horizon  bounds.  Learn  like 
the  photographer  in  his  study  of  physiognomy,  that  there  is 
nothing  duplicated  under  the  sun. 


CHAPTER  III. 


TAKING  THE  PICTURE. 

With  the  position  chosen  from  which  to  take  the  picture — 
this,  by  the  way,  should  be  selected  so  that  the  sunlight  will 
shine  from  the  rear,  or  at  one  side  of  the  camera,  never  in 
front — you  set  up  the  camera  and  tripod,  and  in  doing  this  be 
sure  that  the  top  of  the  camera  is  level. 

Govern  yourself  accordingly  when  spreading  out  or  adjust¬ 
ing  the  legs  of  the  tripod  to  lower  the  camera. 

If  you  cannot  with  your  eye  determine  the  true  position  of 
the  camera,  it  would  be  well  to  carry  a  spirit  level  of  vest 
pocket  size.  There  are  times  when  the  camera  may  be  pointed 
at  a  small  angle  upward  or  downward  from  the  plane  of  the 
horizon  as  a  variation  from  the  rule  just  given,  to  offset  which 
the  ground  glass  should  be  swung  to  a  vertical  position. 

Let  me  emphasize  the  command  not  to  have  the  camera  in¬ 
cline  either  to  one  side  or  the  other.  If  the  upright  sides  of 
the  ground  glass  frame  lean  to  one  side,  so  will  the  picture. 

The  camera  may  be  swung  round  by  loosening  the  screw 
which  binds  it  to  the  tripod.  When  swung  far  enough,  turn 
the  thumb  screw  until  the  camera  is  again  fastened  tightly  to 
its  support. 

From  out  of  the  carrying  case  or  some  other  receptacle  pull 
the  focusing  cloth,  throw  it  over  the  top  of  the  camera,  and 
gather  it  tightly  at  its  sides.  Under  the  hood  thus  formed 
thrust  your  head. 

Do  not  cover  the  lens  with  the  cloth. 

The  object  of  the  hood  is  to  shut  out  light  excepting  that 
which  enters  through  the  lens  and  throws  a  reversed  picture 
on  the  ground  glass,  which  acts  like  a  semi-transparent  mirror. 
IJncap  the  lens  and  draw  the  back  of  the  camera  towards  you. 
After  a  moment  your  eyes  will  become  accustomed  to  the 


TAKING  THE  PICTURE. 


23 


situation,  and  the  picture  will  seem  to  have  already  been 
secured.  It  is  not  a  permanent  impression,  but  like  that  of  the 
mirror.  Continue  to  draw  the  back  of  the  camera  toward  you, 
except  with  the  so-called  forward  focus  cameras,  in  which 
case  the  operation  is  reversed  to  obtain  the  focus,  and  the  im¬ 
age  will  appear  more  distinctly  on  the  ground  glass.  If  you 
pull  on  the  back  too  far,  reverse  the  movement,  as  you  do  with 
a  pair  of  opera  glasses.  When  you  see  the  image  most  clearly 
you  have  obtained  the  focus  ;  neither  the  word  nor  the  oper¬ 
ation  is  difficult;  a  little  practice  will  master  both.  While 
standing  in  the  same  position  look  all  around  the  edges  of 
the  ground  glass,  and  make  sure  that  the  picture  is  as  clearly 
defined  there  as  it  should  be.  Photographers  would  speak 
of  securing  “good  definition.” 

Having  made  sure  of  this,  fasten  the  back  of  the  camera  by 
a  turn  of  the  clamp  screw,  or  other  means  provided.  How 
lay  aside  the  focusing  cloth  where  it  will  be  safe. 

Spring  back  the  catch  on  top  of  frame  and  put  the  ground 
glass  and  frame  out  of  the  way.  Be  careful  not  to  break 
the  former.  Place  the  cap  on  the  lens.  Take  a  double  dry 
plate  holder,  and  turn  it  so  that  the  heads  of  the  dark  slides 
face  to  the  right  (see  G  G,  Fig.  8,  showing  holder  in  proper 

position).  Set  the  holder  down, 
and  over  the  pins  projecting  from 
the  bed  of  the  camera,  and  push 
it  gently  forward  until  the  hook 
from  the  camera  catches  on  to  the 
top  screw. 

Look  now  to  your  lens  to  see 
that  the  cap  is  still  on;  a  knock 
might  have  brushed  it  off.  If  this  were  to  pass  unnoticed, 
and  the  dark  slide  G  be  drawn  out,  one  portion  of  the  sensitive 
plate  would  necessarily  catch  the  light  before  the  other,  with 
a  result  not  at  all  favorable.  Or,  on  the  other  hand,  a  longer 
exposure  than  is  desirable  might  be  given.  There  is  a  proper 
time  to  “  doff  the  cap.”  It  is  after  you  have  pulled  out  the 
dark  slide  G ,  nearest  the  camera  (which  please  lay  on  top  of 


24 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


the  camera),  and  also  after  you  have  decided  how  long  the 
sensitive  plate  should  receive  light  through  the  lens  in  order 
to  get  the  best  results  on  the  film. 

Suppose,  for  illustration,  your  subject  to  he  a  landscape, 
made  up  of  sky,  trees,  houses,  and  a  pond — the  atmosphere 
clear,  and  the  sun  brightly  shining.  The  sky  will  be  photo¬ 
graphed  on  the  film  very  quickjy,  the  pond  not  quite  as  rap¬ 
idly,  the  impression  of  the  bright  colored  houses  will  follow 
next,  and  lastly  the  dark  green  foliage. 

You  have  in  use  a  Morrison  achromatic  lens  of  six-inch 
back  focus,  and  a  stop  of  a  quarter  inch  opening.  (Do  not  be 
alarmed  at  these  words,  for  you  will  or  may  ascertain  such 
points  about  a  lens  when  you  purchase  one.)  The  gelatine 
plates  in  use  we  will  suppose  to  be  what  are  called  rapid, 
hence  you  decide  upon  fifteen  seconds’  exposure,  as  denoted 
by  your  watch.  Uncap  the  lens  by  a  quick  movement,  but  do 
not  jar  the  camera,  and  as  soon  as  the  allotted  time  has  passed 
recap  the  lens,  replace  the  watch  in  your  pocket,  and  push  in 
the  dark  slide  with  the  blackboard  record  surface  out  and  the 
light  mottled  side  toward 
the  plate.  Very  soon 
an  amateur  can  learn  to 
mark  off  seconds  with¬ 
out  having  to  verify  the 
count  by  a  time  keeper. 

A  little  practice  of 
counting  off  the  flight 
of  seconds,  when  there 
is  nothing  else  to  do, 
will  enable  you  to  be¬ 
come  an  expert.  Take 
out  your  pencil  and 
make  the  following  as 
the  befitting  record  of 
observations  : 

The  plate  holder  can  now  be  put  in  the  carrying  case,  and 
indeed  the  whole  outfit  be  folded  into  its  most  compact 


TAKING  THE  PICTURE. 


25 


form,  or  the  tripod  and  camera  may  be  carried  “  shoulder 
arms,”  if  the  amateur  expects  to  pitch  the  tripod  and  give  bat¬ 
tle  to  another  surrendering  scene  not  far  distant. 

All !  by  way  of  diversity,  here  is  a  line  marine  view,  with 
the  blue  sky,  the  broad  expanse  of  the  sea,  boats  at  anchor, 
and  a  small  dock  to  give  the  picture  a  finish.  This  is  a  treat! 
When  you  have  secured  the  right  focus,  and  start  to  substitute 
the  plate  holder  in  place  of  the  ground-glass,  recall  the  fact  that 
the  plate  back  of  the  record  notes  has  on  it  a  picture  impres- 
’  sion,  and  must  not  be  used  again  ;  so  the  holder  should  be  in¬ 
verted.  Also  remember  about  the  dark  slides  facing  to  the 
right.  Before  uncapping  the  lens  again,  calculate  how  long 
the  cap  should  be  off. 

The  sky  casting  down  direct,  and  the  water  giving  back  re¬ 
flected  light,  action  on  the  sensitive  film  will  be  more  rapid 
than  in  the  former  view,  and  you  therefore  decide  upon  ten 
seconds’  exposure.  Draw  out  the  dark  slide  nearest  the  cam¬ 
era.  Uncap  the  lens,  count  "  "  "  "  "  "  "  "  "  "  (10)  seconds 
and  recap.  In  counting,  begin  when  you  take  the  cap  off  by 
saying  0,  1,  2,  3,  and  so  on.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  by 
beginning  with  12  3  and  so  on  you  do  not  give  the  full  meas¬ 
ure  of  time.  Replace  the  dark  slide,  and  return  the  holder, 
with  its  two  hidden  trophies,  to  the  carrying  case. 

By  this  time  perchance  you  are  quite  hungry,  although  you 
did  not  think  that  luncheon  would  be  needed,  so  little  appetite 
did  you  have  before  starting,  but  now  you  are  certain  that  you 
will  go  home  and  see  that  dinner  is  served  promptly  on  this 
day  at  least. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  PLATE. 

It  is  not  essential  that  the  operation  next  in  order  with 
the  gelatine  plate  shall  follow  at  once,  or  the  same  day  or 
week.  The  amateur  can  suit  his  convenience  in  the  matter. 
Dry  plates  have  been  exposed  in  the  Arctic  Regions  and  devel¬ 
oped  in  England.  They  have  been  used  in  Africa  and  brought 
home  over  six  thousand  miles,  after  months  of  travel,  to  be  de¬ 
veloped. 

For  the  development,  the  following  list  of  accessories  are 
requisite :  Two  vulcanite  trays,  one  four-ounce  glass  graduate, 
a  minum  graduate,  a  package  of  S.  P.  C.  carbonate  soda  devel¬ 
oper  ;  and  of  chemicals,  say,  one  ounce  bromide  ammonium, 
one  pound  hyposulphite  of  soda,  and  one  pound  alum. 

These  accessories  will  probably  be  kept  where  the  dry  plates 
also  are  stored.  Into  this  closet  or  room  are  taken  the  dry 
plate  holders  containing  the  exposed  plates,  the  door  of  the 

room  is  shut,  and  again  all  white  light 
is  barred  and  stuffed  out.  The  seance 
can  now  go  on  by  ruby  light. 

Take  out  the  central  septum  (slide 
C ,  Fig.  6)  from  a  holder,  which  lat¬ 
ter  please  grasp  with  the  left  hand,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  9,  and,  holding  the 
right  hand  to  within  an  inch  of  the 
Fig.  9.  opening  end,  tilt  forward  or  raise  the 

other  end  of  the  holder  so  that  the  gelatine  plates  will  slide 
down  and  strike  against  the  fingers  of  the  right  hand.  Fig. 
9  illustrates  this  also.  The  uppermost  plate  is  taken  out  of 
the  holder,  being  grasped  by  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of 
the  right  hand,  as  shown  in  Fig.  5,  and  then  the  holder  is  so 
inclined  that  the  other  plate  will  slide  back  into  its  former  place. 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  PLATE. 


27 


The  holder  can  now  be  set  aside.  Place  the  gelatine  plate  in 
the  tray,  and  keep  the  sensitive  side  uppermost.  Look  to  this  ! 


The  Russell  Negative  Clasp  and  Drying  Support. 

By  using  the  Bussell  Negative  Clasp  and  Drying  Support, 
there  is  no  need  of  wetting  or  staining  the  lingers  in  the  de¬ 
veloper,  or  of  even  touching  a  plate  until  after  it  has  been 
developed,  varnished,  and  dried. 

Put  the  slide  C  back  into  the  holder.  From  a  pitcher  or 
glass  pour  clean  water  into  the  tray  until  it  is  half  filled.  Leave 
the  plate  in  this  cold  water  bath,  and  mix  your  developer  solu- 

Dissolve  the  contents  of  the  paper 
package  marked  No.  2  of  the  S.  P.  C.  car¬ 
bonate  of  soda  developer  in  sixty -four 
ounces  of  water  and  add  to  two  ounces  of 
this  solution  two  drams  of  the  No.  1  solu¬ 
tion.  Now  pour  olf  the  water  from  the 
tray,  and  flow  over  the  plate  the  com¬ 
bined  developing  solution.  If  air  bubbles 
form  on  the  plate  they  must  be  removed 
by  a  touch  of  the  finger  or  by  a  soft 
camel’s-hair  brush.  If  the  plate  be  cor¬ 
rectly  exposed  traces  of  the  image  will 
appear  on  the  sensitive  film  in  a  short 
time,  but  in  case  they  do  not,  pour  the 
developing  solution  back  into  the  graduate  and  add  a  little  more 


tion  as  follows : 


Graduating  Glass. 


28 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


of  No.  2  solution  (from  a  quarter  to  half  an  ounce)  and  reflow 
the  plate  with  the  strengthened  developer.  In  a  short  time 
the  details  of  the  image  will  appear,  but  wait  patiently 
until  all  the  details  are  out  and  clearly  seen  in  the  deep  shadows, 
and  until  the  milky  white  appearance  of  the  plate  is  changed  to 
a  dark  gray  color.  The  negative  is  then  fully  developed  and  must 
be  washed  in  two  changes  of  water,  when  it  is  ready  for  the 
“  flxing  ”  bath.  Should  the  image  on  the  plate  flash  out  sud¬ 
denly  on  flowing  it  with  the  developing  solution,  and  continue 
to  grow  very  rapidly,  the  plate  has  been  over-exposed  and  must 
be  quickly  removed  from  the  developing  tray  and  placed  in  pure 
water,  while  a  restraining  solution  of  bromide  is  made  as  follows : 

Dissolve  one  ounce  of  bromide  of  ammonium  in  eight  ounces 
of  water,  and  label  “bromide  solution.”  Now  add  a  few  drops 
of  the  bromide  solution  to  the  developing  tray,  and  replace  in 
it  the  partly  developed  plate.  The  development  will  now  pro¬ 
ceed  more  slowly,  but  if  too  much  bromide  has  been  added,  so 
that  the  development  is  entirely  stopped,  it  can  be  started  again 
by  adding,  carefully,  a  little  more  of  the  No.  2  solution. 

The  S.  P.  C.  pyro  and  potash  developer 
is  preferred  by  man^,  at  least  it  can  do 
no  harm  to  give  it  a  trial,  making  .  use 
of  the  following  simple  directions : 

To  develop  a  5x8  plate,  take  water, 
two  ounces ;  No.  1,  one  dram ;  No.  2,  one 
dram.  To  give  density,  use  more  of 
No.  1.  More  of  No.  1  will  restrain, 
more  of  No.  2  will  accelerate.  This  de¬ 
veloper  will  be  found  very  desirable  for 
instantaneous  exposures  as  it  is  much 
more  energetic  than  the  soda. 

Immerse  the  plate  in  a  saturated  solu¬ 
tion  of  alum  for  a  moment  after  fixing 
and  washing  to  give  the  negative  a  gray 
wet  plate  color. 

Pelletone  pyrogallic  acid  tablets,*  put 


*  Exact  style  in  which  the  genuine  tablets  are  put  up. 


DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  PLATE, 


29 


up  in  bottles,  each  containing  100  two-grain  ( exactly  two 
grains)  tablets  of  Schering’s  unrivalled  pyrogallic  acid  will  be 
found  a  great  convenience  in  developing  dry  plates.  The  cut 
below  shows  the  Scovill  outfit  of  pure  chemicals  and  acces¬ 
sories  for  making  negatives. 


CHAPTER  Y. 


FIXING  THE  PLATE. 

Pour  into  the  unused  tray  enough  of  the  hyposulphite  of 
soda  solution  to  half  fill  it,  the  formula  for  preparing  which 
is  as  follows : 

Water ,  twenty-four  ounces,  with  four  ounces  of  hyposul¬ 
phite  of  soda  dissolved  therein . 

The  finger  of  caution  must  here  point  to  a  warning: 

Never  use  this  latter  tray  for  any  other  than  a  hypo¬ 
sulphite  of  soda  solution. 

Remove  the  plate  from  the  tray  where  it  lies,  handling  it 
by  means  of  the  negative  clasp,  and  place  it  in  the  fixing  solu¬ 
tion  contained  in  the  second  tray.  Keep  the  plate  in  this 
solution  until  all  the  milky  whiteness  has  disappeared  from 
the  back  of  the  plate — this  will  be  noted  by  raising  the  plate 
and  examining  the  lower  side.  If  any  white  patches  remain, 
replace  the  plate  in  the  solution.  Patches  must  thus  artis¬ 
tically  be  hidden  from  view,  so  allow  a  little  additional  time 
before  taking  out  the  plate,  to  be  sure  that  they  have  all  dis¬ 
appeared.  Then  take  the  plate  out  of  the  solution,  and  wash 
it  thoroughly.  White  light  will  not  now  harm  it,  so  it  can  be 
carried  to  a  sink  outside  of  the  darkened  room. 

Every  particle  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  should  be  removed 
from  the  film  and  plate.  The  washing  is  done  by  permitting 
a  gentle  stream  of  water  to  flow  over  each  side  of  the  plate. 
Do  no  permit  the  fingers  to  touch  the  film,  as  thus  the  nega¬ 
tive  would  be  marred. 

After  carefully  and  completely  cleansing  the  plate,  rinse 
out  the  developing  tray  and  pour  it  half  full  of  the  alum  solu¬ 
tion,  which  is  mixed  according  to  the  formula  presented  here : 

Water,  twenty  ounces,  and  all  the  alum  it  will  take  and 
hold  in  solution,  or,  in  other  words,  a  “  saturated  solution 


FIXING  THE  PLATE. 


31 


Place  the  plate,  film  side  up,  into  the  new  bath,  and  permit 
it  to  remain  there  five  minutes,  while  you  cleanse  your  hands 
from  any  adhering  soda  soluti  n. 

For  increasing  the  intensity  of  the  high  lights,  flow  the 
plate  with  the  Hall’s  intensifier,  leaving  it  on  just  long 
enough  to  give  the  film  a  light  brown  tint,  then  wash  the 
plate  thoroughly.  The  Hall’s  intensifier  is  highly  spoken 
of  by  Dr.  Eder,  as  it  gives  to  the  negative  a  superior  non- 
actinic  property. 

Remove  the  plate  from  the  tray,  wash  it  for  a  few  seconds, 
and  set  it  up  to  dry,  which  may  require  a  number  of  hours. 
Do  not  use  heat  to  dry  the  plate,  as  you  would  thus  melt  the 
*film,  and  so  cause  the  gelatine  to  run  about  or  off  the  plate. 
Then  your  picture  would  resemble  “  Castles  in  Spain,”  nothing 
more  defined,  everything  depending  on  the  power  of  imagina¬ 
tion.  I  present  in  Fig.  10  a  very  convenient  receptacle  for 

holding  gelatine  plates  when 
drying,  which  is  called  a  nega¬ 
tive  rack.  Set  the  plate  in  this, 
where  it  will  not  be  disturbed 
while  drying. 

Plate  Ho.  2  can  now  be  put 
through  the  course  of  develop¬ 
ment  and  fixing,  and  into  the 
negative  rack.  Before  doing 
this,  however,  that  is,  handling 
date  Ho.  2,  empty  the  tray  con¬ 
taining  the  alum  solution  back  into  the  bottle,  wash  the  tray 
out,  and  carry  it  into  the  dark  room  ;  also  throw  away  the 
contents  of  the  developing  tumbler,  which  please  rinse  out 
also.  If  the  ruby  lantern  has  been  extinguished,  relight  it, 
and  once  more  banish  all  white  light  from  the  closet. 

All  the  preceding  instructions  can  be  briefly  summarized 
as  follows : 

1.  Put  some  sensitive  plates  into  dry  plate  holders. 

2.  Make  the  exposures. 

3.  After  taking  a  plate  out  of  the  holder,  place  it  in  a  tray 
filled  with  water. 


$2 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


4.  Drain  off  the  water  and  pour  over  the  plate  the  mixed 
developing  solution. 

5v  Wash  the  plate  and  place  it  in  the  hypo  solution. 

Wash  the  plate  and  give  it  an  alum  bath. 

7.  Wash  the  plate  and  set  it  in  the  rack  to  dry. 

8.  When  perfectly  dry,  coat  the  film  over  with  negative 
varnish,  and  allow  that  coating  to  dry.  After  this  the  surface 
of  the  plate  may  be  touched  by  the  fingers. 

From  this  description  chemical  manipulation  may  seem 
(complicated,  but  the  processes  are  really  not  so.  Rather  than 
have  the  amateur  grope  along,  trying  to  discover  what  will 
bring  success,  and  what  will  lead  to  error,  I  have  endeavored 
to  mark  out  each  step  to  be  taken.  Still,  if  the  amateur  liesi-  * 
tales  and  wavers,  not  trusting  his  own  ability  to  manipulate  a 
plate,  he  can  have  the  development  done  by  a  professional 
photographer,  and  also  the  printing,  toning,  and  mounting  of 
the  picture,  1  do  not  recommend  this.  To  “go  it  alone”  is 
the  true  American  way.  If  doubts  arise,  consult  with  some 
©ne  of  experience,  and  believe  in  your  ability  to  do  what 
cither  amateurs  have  done. 


CHAPTER  71. 


VARNISHING  THE  NEGATIVE. 


We  left  the  negative  in  the  rack  drying,  and  it  must  be 
thoroughly  dried  before  the  next  process  is  attempted.  My 
plan  is  to  leave  the  negative  in  the  rack  overnight  to  dry.  It 
follows  next  in  order  that  a  coating  of  S.  P.  C.  negative  var¬ 
nish  should  be  put  over  the  film  on  the  negative  to  preserve 


Fig.  11. 


and  protect  it.  So  warm  the  plate  slightly  ;  do  not  use  much 
heat — only  just  sufficient  to  give  the  plate  an  indication  of 
warmth. 

Grasp  the  plate  by  the  corner  with  the  left  hand,  in  the 
manner  shown  in  Fig.  11.  Have  the  film  side  up.  With 
the  right  hand  remove  the  cork  from  the  bottle  of  varnish, 
and,  taking  it  up,  pour  enough  on  the  plate  to  make  a  pool, 
which  can  be  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  plate,  but  not  so 
much  that  the  varnish  will  run  off  at  the  edge.  Fig.  11  illus¬ 
trates  the  act  of  pouring  out  the  varnish.  Incline  the  plate 
so  that  the  varnish  will  flow  to  the  upper  right  hand  corner, 
vary  the  inclination,  and  send  the  varnish  to  the  upper  left 
hand  corner,  then  around  to  the  corner  held  by  the  hand, 
and  finally  to  the  lower  right  hand  corner.  It  will,  of  course, 
be  surmised  that  the  object  of  these  movements  is  to  coat  the 


34 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


film  on  the  plate  over  evenly  with  varnish.  When  the  varnish 
has  reached  the  lower  right  hand  corner,  the  bottle  should  be 
placed  as  indicated  by  Fig.  12,  so  that  it  will  catch  the  sur 
plus  varnish.  Gradually  the  corner  distant  from  the  bottle  is- 


raised  so  that  all  the  excess  of  varnish  will  run  off  the  plate,, 
to  accelerate  which  give  the  plate  a  slight  rocking  motion  to 
and  fro  from  right  to  left. 

As  soon  as  the  varnish  ceases  to  run  off,  remove  the  bottle, 
cork  it,  and  draw  the  lower  corner  of  the  plate  over  a  bit  of 

paper  to  wipe  off  any  drops  clinging 
to  the  edge.  Warm  the  plate  to  dry 
the  varnish,  using  only  sufficient  heat 
to  cause  it  to  dry  with  glossy  bril¬ 
liancy. 

Set  aside  the  varnished  negative 
for  a  few  hours  to  cool  and  harden,, 
and  then  it  will  be  ready  for  the 
printing  frame.  When  a  number  of 
negatives  have  been  developed  and 
varnished,  there  are  two  methods  of 
preserving  them  from  the  dust  and  from  scratches.  One  is 
by  putting  them  in  envelopes  made  of  stout  paper,  and  called 
“negative  preservers,”  which  are  sold  to  correspond  to  differ- 


VARNISHING  THE  NEGATIVE. 


35 


ent  sized  negatives.  Another  way  is  by  placing  the  negatives 
in  boxes  like  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  13.  These  are  called 
“  negative  boxes,”  and  are  constructed  to  hold  twenty-four 
negatives,  which  latter  are  slipped  into  the  grooves  at  the  two 
sides,  and  thus  kept  from  rubbing. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


PRINTING  FROM  THE  NEGATIVE. 


Or,  in  other  words,  producing  from  a  negative  a  positive  pic¬ 
ture  on  paper.  For  this  purpose  are  needed  two  porcelain  trays, 
one  printing  frame,  some  ready  sensitized  paper,  a  bottle  of 
chloride  of  gold,  a  quarter  pound  acetate  of  soda,  one  ounce 
chloride  of  lime,  one  pound  hyposulphite  of  soda.  This  is  a 
fair  proportion  of  chemicals.  Before  commencing  to  print, 
determine  how  many  pictures  you  want  from  each  negative, 
and  cut  the  proper  amount  of  sensitized  paper  into  pieces  the 
size  of  the  negative.  There  are  in  each  sheet  sixteen  pieces, 


Fig.  14. 


four  by  five  inches  in  size.  Use  an  ivory  paper  cutter,  and  do 
not  allow  your  fingers  to  touch  the  sensitive  or  glossy  side  of 
the  paper.  Put  the  pieces  of  sensitive  paper  in  a  large  envel¬ 
ope,  which  place  in  a  shallow  paper  box  and  conceal  in  a  dry 
and  dark  place  until  wanted  for  use ;  or,  better  still,  procure 
one  of  the  Hallenbeck  Sensitized  Paper  and  Dry  Plate  Safety 
Boxes.  These  are  provided  with  lock  and  key  and  with  an 
inside  lid,  weighted  to  keep  the  sensitized  paper  flat.  Sensi¬ 
tized  paper  should  be  handled  only  in  a  weak  light. 

Fig.  14  is  that  of  a  printing  frame  with  one  half  of  the 
back-board  unfastened  and  opened. 


PRINTING  FROM  THE  NEGATIVE. 


37 


Unfasten  the  other  half  and  take  the  whole  back-board  out. 
Dust  out  the  inside  of  the  frame,  and  also  dust  off  the  nega¬ 
tive.  The  outside  of  tbe  frame  would  not  be  harmed  by  the 
same  treatment.  Put  the  negative  in  the  printing  frame  so 
that  the  film  side  is  up,  and  upon  it  place  a  piece  of  sensitized 
paper,  with  its  glossy  side  down.  Replace  the  back-board  in 
the  printing  frame.  Rote  that  the  paper  underneath  is 
smooth.  Fasten  the  springs  by  sliding  the  ends  under  the  but¬ 
tons  on  the  frame,  using  gentle  pressure  to  avoid  breaking  the 


S.  P.  C.  OUTFIT  FOR  PRINTING,  TONING,  AND  MOUNTING  PICTURES. 


glass  negative  underneath.  The  placing  of  the  sensitized 
paper  in  the  frame  must  be  done  in  a  subdued  light.  Carry 
the  printing  frame,  wdien  closed,  to  the  window,  place  it 
upon  the  sill,  and  let  the  light  fall  upon  the  front  of  the  frame. 
Occasionally  remove  tbe  frame  from  the  window,  stepping 
back  into  the  room  to  examine  the  print.  Loosen  one  of  the 
springs,  raise  one  half  of  the  back  to  a  perpendicular  position, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  14,  bend  back  the  sensitized  paper,  and  see 
how  the  printing  is  getting  on.  When  the  print  looks  darker 


38 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


than  you  wish  the  finished  picture  to  appear,  remove  it  from 
the  frame  and  place  it  away  from  the  light  in  the  box  before 
described.  Put  another  piece  of  sensitized  paper  in  the  frame 
and  continue  as  before,  until  you  have  secured  the  desired 
number  of  prints  from  this  negative. 

Some  negatives  may  require  continuously  the  full  benefit  of 
the  sun’s  rays  on  the  printing  frame,  but  the  greater  number 
do  better  in  a  more  subdued  light.  Never  permit  anything  to 
throw  a  reflection  on  your  frame  while  printing  with  it. 

When  examining  the  print,  always  do  so  in  a  weak  light. 
Use  care  in  putting  in  the  paper,  and  do  not  scratch  the 
negative. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


TONING  THE  PRINTS,  AND  FIXING  THEM. 

Although  toning  is  the  next  operation,  you  will  naturally 
prepare  the  toning  and  fixing  solutions  before  proceeding  to 
make  the  prints.  The  formula  for  preparing  the  gold  stock 
solution  is  as  follows  : 

Into  seven  and  one-half  ounces  of  water  dissolve  fifteen 
grains  chloride  of  gold  and  sodium. 

Pour  clean  water  into  one  of  the  porcelain  trays,  and  into 
this  bath  place  the  prints.  Toning  should  be  done  in  a  weak 
light.  Do  not  get  too  near  a  window,  but  have  sufficient 
light  to  see  distinctly  without  requiring  guess-work.  After 
the  prints  have  soaked  awhile  in  the  water,  pour  it  off  and  re¬ 
new  with  fresh.  This  should  be  repeated  a  number  of  times, 
and  at  the  last  change  permit  the  prints  to  soak  while  you  pre¬ 
pare  the  toning  hath  according  to  the  following  formula  : 

For  mixing  the  toning  bath,  take  of  French  azotate,  one 
ounce ;  water,  six  ounces ;  gold  solution,  two  ounces.  The 
above  bath  is  quickly  made,  and  is  one  now  used  in  many  gal¬ 
leries  and  by  nearly  all  amateurs. 

The  water  is  now  drained  off  the  prints  and  they  are  placed 
in  the  solution  just  mixed,  face  downward,  one  at  a  time,  press¬ 
ing  them  down  into  it  with  the  fingers.  When  you  have  fin¬ 
ished  this,  commence  leisurely  to  turn  them  over,  and  the 
reversal  or  turning  over  should  continue  while  they  remain  in 
this  solution,  in  order  to  secure  even  tones.  The  prints  are 
presumed  to  be  toned  sufficiently,  when,  on  examination  by 
transmitted  light,  the  whites  are  found  to  be  clear,  and  by  re¬ 
flected  light  the  pictures  have  a  purple  tint.  Remove  the 
prints  from  the  toning  solution  (which  preserve  for  future 
use),  and  wash  them  well  in  clear  water,  using  the  now  empty 
dish  for  the  purpose. 

Fixing  the  Prints. — Pour  this  water  off  and  place 
the  prints  in  the  fixing  bath,  which  is  thus  made  up  : 


40 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


Hyposulphite  of  soda ,  four  ounces ;  common  salt ,  on# 
ounce  /  {washing  soda ),  one-half  ounce,  and  water , 

thirty-two  ounces . 

Prepare  this  solution  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used,  or 
warm  to  ninety  degrees.  Put  the  prints  in  the  fixing  solution 
to  remain  twenty  minutes.  (This  should  be  used  but  for  one 
lot  of  prints.)  After  fixing  the  prints,  wash  them  thoroughly 
and  well,  and  then  hang  them  up  to  dry.  As  stated  before, 
it  is  necessary  to  have  all  trace  of  the  hyposulphite  of  soda  re¬ 
moved  from  the  prints.  This  is  accomplished  by  long  wash¬ 
ing  in  running  water. 

To  remove  quickly  from  a  negative  film  the  last  traces  of  hypo¬ 
sulphite  of  soda  and  chemical  compounds,  derivative  of  the  fix¬ 
ing  process,  and  which  after  a  reasonable  amount  of  washing  may 
still  be  retained,  we  resort  to  chemical  actions,  decomposing 
the  obnoxious  and  injurious  salts,  rendering  them  into  harm¬ 
less  compounds.  This  is  done  to  perfection  with  the  S.  P.  C. 
Flandreau’s  hypo  eliminator,  a  solution  of  hypochlorite  of  zinc, 
of  which  one-lialf  ounce  is  added  to  two  quarts  of  the  last 
washing  water.  The  negative  is  allowed  to  remain  for  ten 
minutes  in  it,  is  rinsed  off  with  pure  water  and  set  on  the  dry¬ 
ing  rack. 

To  test  for  the  presence  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  the 
negative  film  we  employ  the  iodide  of  starch  paper.  A  piece 
of  it,  when  moistened,  will  turn  intensely  blue.  When  applied 
in  this  state,  either  directly  to  the  wet  film  or  the  drippings  of 
the  wash  water,  the  blue  color  should  remain  intact.  Bleaching 
indicates  the  presence  of  hypo.  The  reagent  is  so  extremely 
sensitive  that  it  will  show  hypo  quite  distinctly  when  in  a  solu¬ 
tion  of  the  proportions  1 :  6000. 

In  a  similar  manner  as  described,  the  hypo  eliminator  and 
the  iodide  of  starch  test  paper  can  be  used  to  examine  albumen 
or  other  prints  made  with  a  salt  of  silver  and  fixed  in  hyposul¬ 
phite  of  soda. 

Blue  Prints  (Cyanotypes). — There  is  another  method 
of  producing  a  positive  picture  on  paper,  which  is  very  simple. 
It  is  called  the  “  blue process ,”  and  is  much  used  for  reproducing 


TONING  THE  PRINTS,  AND  FIXING  THEM. 


41 


mottoes,  drawings,  manuscripts,  etc.  The  manipulation  is  as 
follows :  Place  the  negative  in  the  printing.frame,  film  side  up ; 
upon  it  lay  a  piece  of  ferro-prussiate  paper,  colored  side  down. 
After  fastening  in  the  back,  carry  the  printing  frame  to  the 
window,  and  turn  the  front  side  out  to  receive  the  sunlight 
for  from  three  to  ten  minutes.  Occasionally  take  in  the  frame 
to  examine  the  printing,  and  as  soon  as  the  image  is  distinctly 
seen  on  the  paper,  place  the  print  in  a  pan  of  clear  water  for 
from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  whites  of  the  pic¬ 
ture  are  clear,  when  you  will  have  a  permanent  blue  print  on 
white  paper.  This  will  at  least  answer  for  a  proof,  and  show 
the  quality  of  the  negative.  The  handling  of  this  paper 
should  be  done  in  a  very  weak  light  until  after  it  is  washed. 
Lamp  or  gaslight  will  not  hurt  it. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


TRIMMING  AND  MOUNTING  PRINTS. 

Prints  can  be  trimmed,  one  at  a  time,  by  laying  a  ruler 
over  them,  and  cutting  along  the  straight  edge  with  a  very 
sharp  knife  ;  but  the  better  method  is  to  use  the  Scovill  glass 
forms,  as  the  picture  can  be 
seen  through  them,  and  by 
shifting  the  form  the  best 
portion  of  the  print  may  be 
selected.  Lay  the  print  on 
a  thick  light  of  glass,  over  it 
adjust  the  glass  form,  and 
with  a  sharp  penknife  cut 
all  around  the  edges.  Better 
than  a  knife  for  this  purpose 
is  one  of  the  Robinson  trim¬ 
mers,  illustrated  by  Fig.  15,  as  it  makes  a  clean-cut  edge,  not 
a  rough  or  uneven  one. 

Mounting  the  Prints. — When  through  trimming  the 
prints,  my  plan  is  to  dampen  a  light  of  glass,  at  the  same  time 
making  sure  that  it  is  clean.  Then  I  take  each  print  separ¬ 
ately,  and  immerse  it  in  water  until  it  lies  flat.  (By  this  time 
you  realize  that  prints,  as  well  as  negatives,  must  accept  the 
doctrine  of  total  immersion.)  Then  place  it  face  down  upon 
the  light  of  glass  ;  on  top  of  it  put  another  print  facing  down, 
and  so  continue  until  all  of  them  have  been  dampened  and 
thus  piled  up.  Drain  off  the  surplus  water  so  that  the  prints 
will  not  be  too  wet. 


TRIMMING  AND  MOUNTING  PRINTS. 


43 


Tlie  paste  used  for  mounting  must  be  sweet.  Sour  paste 
will  spoil  your  prints.  Do  not  forget  this  fact,  and  you  will 
not,  after  a  while,  have  to  lament  about  the  fading  and  stain¬ 
ing  of  some  choice  view.  Parlor  paste  is  the  best  for  an 
amateur’s  use,  as  it  keeps  well  and  is  always  ready  for  service. 
It  is  only  essential  to  see  that  the  bottle  or  jar  containing  it  is 
corked  (when  not  in  use)  to  keep  out  dust.  With  this  paste 
keep  a  bristle  brush — a  two  inch  brush  is  best — as  a  large  sur¬ 
face  can  be  spread  over  with  paste  in  a  short  time,  and  it  will 
do  the  work  evenly. 

After  wetting  the  brush  and  squeezing  out  the  water,  dip  it 
in  the  paste,  and  apply  this  to  the  upper  surface  or  back  of 
the  top  print  on  the  pile,  passing  the  brush  backward  and  for¬ 
ward  until  an  even  coating  is  put  on.  See  that  the  edges  are 
not  neglected.  With  a  knife  blade  lift  one  corner  of  this  print, 
grasp  it  wTith  the  finger  and  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  and  raise 
it  off  the  other  prints ;  at  the  same  time  take  hold  of  the 
lower  edges  and  turn  it  in  such  a  manner  that  the  print  will 
be  suspended  paste  side  down  between  the  two  hands.  How 
bring  it  over  to  the  card-board  or  mount,  and  poise  it  over  the 
middle.  Gently  lower  the  center  of  the  print  down  to  the 
mount,  and  carefully  push  one  edge,  and  then  the  other,  down 
to  card-boa^d  surface.  Place  a  clean  piece  of  paper  on  the 
print,  and,  commencing  at  the  center,  rub  with  the  hand  to¬ 
ward  one  end  and  then  toward  the  other,  to  press  out  all  air 
from  beneath  the  print.  If  it  appears  to  be  smoothly  pasted 
on,  lay  the  mount  aside.  After  you  have  finished  mounting 
prints,  wash  off  the  glass  and  cleanse  the  brush. 

Set  the  mounts  up  separately  to  dry. 

Let  me  suggest  at  this  point,  before  I  forget  it,  a  handy 
appliance  for  mounting,  or,  in  other  words,  rolling  down  your 
prints  after  they  have  been  pasted.  It  consists  of  a  round 
turned  stick,  over  which  a  piece  of  rubber  tubing  has  been 
drawn  to  cover  the  surface  and  to  fit  tightly.  Six  inches 
would  be  a  convenient  length  for  the  stick  and  tubing.  Put 
a  three-quarter  inch  screw  in  the  center  of  each  end  of  the 
stick.  Bend  a  piece  of  stout  wire  in  a  half  circle,  and  then 


u 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


twist  tlie  two  ends  so  that  the  screws  will  go  into  the  rings 
thus  made  as  far  as  their  heads.  Passing  the  screw  up  to  the 
heads,  through  these  two  ends,  and  turning  them  into  the  ends 
of  the  stick,  you  will  have  ready  a  handy  implement  for  roll¬ 
ing  down  the  prints  after  they  are  laid  on  the  mount. 

Should  the  occasion  arise  when  you  desire  to  mount  a  pic¬ 
ture  on  very  thin  card-board  or  on  paper,  the  following  special 
material  should  be  used  if  you  would  have  the  prints,  when 
dry,  lay  flat  and  be  free  from  puckers  :  Take  of  Nelson's  No, 
1  gelatine ,  four  ounces ;  water ,  sixteen  ounces.  Allow  the 
gelatine  to  soak  in  the  water  for  ten  minutes,  then  set  the 


Fig.  16. — Albums  for  Photographs. 


bottle  containing  the  hot  water  to  make  the  gelatine  dissolve, 
after  which  add  one  ounce  of  glycerine,  and  then  five  ounces 
of  alcohol.  With  the  paste  thus  made  there  will  be  no  trou¬ 
ble  about  mounting  prints  according  to  the  previous  directions 
in  this  chapter.  This  paste  requires  warming  (by  setting  the 
bottle  in  hot  water)  before  use.  Whether  the  mounted  prints 
shall  be  framed  or  put  in  a  portfolio  is  left  to  the  taste  of  the 
amateur. 

How  often  the  amateur  photographer  is  heard  to  remark 
that  “as  fast  as  he  makes  prints  from  a  negative,  his  friends 
make  off  with  them,”  and  none  are  left  to  be  treasured  as 
evidence  of  his  advancement  in  the  art.  In  order  to  keep  at 


TRIMMING-  AND  MOUNTING  PRINTS. 


45 


least  one  picture  from  each  negative,  and  to  arrange  the  col¬ 
lection  in  the  best  manner  for  display  and  preservation,  taste¬ 
ful  albums  have  been  introduced  by  the  Scovill  Manufactur¬ 
ing  Company.  (See  Fig.  16.) 

Each  album  has  forty-eight  pages  (twenty-four  leaves).  In 
them  the  finest  card-board  only  is  used,  chemically  free  from 
anything  that  could  iujure  a  print.  Muslin  cloth  covers  with 
leather  back  and  corners,  finish  the  albums  sufficiently  to 
make  them  an  ornament  in  a  library  or  on  any  center  table. 


THE  SCOVILL  PORTE-FUEILLE 


is  a  device  for  the  preservation,  in  convenient  form,  of  cards 
upon  which  photographic  prints  have  been  mounted. 

A  series  of  muslin  holders,  bound  between  covers  with 
patent  flexible  backs,  constitute  a  book  having  great  strength 
of  binding  combined  with  a  flexibility  that  allows  the  book  to 
be  opened  flat  without  strain.  Prints  can  thus  be  put  into 
book  form,  readily  and  securely,  after  they  have  been  mounted, 
and  also  (when  desired)  burnished. 


CHAPTER  X. 


TRANSPARENCIES,  MAGIC  LANTERN  SLIDES,  AND  ENLARGEMENTS. 

How  to  Make  Transparencies . — In  the  dark  room, 
illuminated  by  ruby  light,  place  a  negative,  film  side  up,  in 
the  printing  frame ;  on  the  surface  of  the  negative  lay  a 
gelatine  plate  of  the  slow  kind,  film  side  down.  (For  this  pur¬ 
pose  special  plates  are  prepared  and  sold.)  Put  the  back  in 
the  printing  frame,  fasten  the  springs,  and  cover  the  frame 
with  the  focusing  cloth,  taking  it  into  a  room  where  a  gas  or 
kerosene  light  is  burning.  Hold  the  frame  with  the  nega¬ 
tive  toward  the  light,  and  distant  about  twelve  inches  from  it. 
Take  off  the  focusing  cloth,  give  from  ten  to  twenty  seconds’ 
exposure,  according  to  the  density  of  the  negative  ;  re-cover 
the  printing  frame,  and  go  back  to  the  dark  room.  Use  the 
following  developer  for  the  gelatine  plate : 


Xo.  1. 


Neutral  oxalate  of  potash,  - 
Water ,  - 

Bromide  of  potassium, 


4  ounces . 
20  “ 


40  grains . 


A  saturated  solution  of  oxalic  or  citric  acid 
{enough  to  turn  blue  litmus  paper  red). 


Ho.  2. 


Sulphate  of  iron  . 
Water, 


300  grains. 
3  ounces . 


TRANSPARENCIES,  MAGIC  LANTERN  SLIDES,  ETC. 


47 


Take  of  Solution  N o.  1,  seven  ounces ;  and  of  No.  2  Solu¬ 
tion,  one  ounce.  Mix  them,  and  develop  until  the  detail  in 
the  highly  lighted  portion  shows  quite  plainly.  The  result 
should  be  a  fine  positive  picture  or  transparency,  which 
is  fixed,  washed  and  dried,  and  then  is  ready  to  be  put  in 
a  nickel-plated  frame  with  a  ground  glass  at  the  back,  and 
hung  where  the  light  shines  through  it — probably  to  adorn  a 
window. 


This  illustration  is  presented  with  the  triple  purpose  of  showing  a  pic¬ 
ture  made  upon  a  Carbutt  A  Plate  ;  also,  the  glass  with  etched  border,  and 
the  drawing-room  transparency  frame,  which  give  a  finish  to  the  picture. 


48 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


Magic  Lantern  Slides . — To  make  these  slides,  pro¬ 
ceed  in  a  similar  manner  to  that  just  described  for  making 
transparencies,  observing  care,  however,  not  to  get  the  positive 
too  dense,  or,  in  other  words,  so  opaque  that  light  shining 
through  it  will  not  throw  out  all  the  details  in  the  picture.  In 
short,  the  positive  should  be  weak,  but  its  details  perfect,  in 
order  to  make  a  fine  lantern  slide. 

Many  amateurs  prefer  to  use  a  3Jx4J  camera — the  most 
convenient  for  making  negatives  to  copy  as  lantern  slides; 
where  such  pictures  are  quite  sharp,  it  has  been  found  that 
there  is  not  the  least  difficulty  about  enlarging  them  to  8x10 
size,  hence  the  introduction  and  employment,  for  enlarging 
and  other  purposes,  of  the  Scovill  Enlarging,  Reducing  and 
Copying  Cameras,  which  are  made  in  the  following  sizes : 


6^x8|-,  8x10,  10x12,  11x14,  and  14x17.  Other  sizes  may  be 
made  if  required.  The  following  directions  for  use  will  be  of 
service,  and  as  simple  as  the  operation  explained : 

To  copy  a  negative  in  the  natural  size,  place  it  in  the  kit  on 
the  front  of  camera  and  button  it  in.  Attached  to  the  center 
frame  of  the  camera  is  a  division  upon  which,  on  the  side 
toward  the  camera  front,  a  lens  is  mounted.  Suppose  this  to 
be  a  quarter-plate  portrait  lens,  the  focal  length  of  which  we 
will  suppose  to  be  4  inches — draw  back  the  center  frame  and 
the  lens  twice  the  focal  length  of  the  lens  (8  inches) ;  slide  the 
back  frame  with  ground  glass  the  same  distance  from  the 


TRANSPARENCIES,  MAGIC  LANTERN  SLIDES,  ETC. 


49 


center  frame.  To  enlarge  with  the  same  lens  to  eight  times  the 
size  of  the  original,  the  center  of  the  lens  must  be  4  J  inches  from 
the  negative,  and  the  ground  glass  be  36  inches  from  the  center 
of  the  lens.  To  reduce  in  the  same  proportion,  reverse  and 
have  36  inches  from  the  center  of  the  lens  to  the  negative,  and 
from  the  center  of  the  lens  to  ground  glass  4J  inches. 

TABLE  FOR  ENLARGEMENTS. 

Copied  front  the  “  British  Journal  Almanac  for  1882." 


Focus  of  Lens. 


Times  of  Enlargement  and  Reduction. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

i  n. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

4 

<> 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

4 

3 

234 

21 

2f 

2® 

2f 

0,1/ 

5 

7*4 

10 

1234 

15 

171 

20 

22* 

&  /2 

5 

3^ 

H 

3*4 

3 

2H 

2f 

2ff 

3 

6 

9 

12 

15 

18 

21 

24 

27 

6 

4*4 

4 

3M 

8f 

31 

3f 

3f 

3*4 

7 

1034 

14 

1 7*4 

21 

24* 

28 

314 

7 

5*4 

4K 

434 

4* 

4  1 

4 

5 

°T6 

A 

8 

12 

16 

20 

24 

28 

32 

36 

4 

8 

6 

5*4 

5 

4  1 

4f 

4f 

4* 

43 4  * 

9 

13*4 

18 

22*4 

27 

31* 

36 

40* 

9 

6^ 

6 

5% 

5f 

5i 

ki 

5tV 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

40 

45 

0 

10 

V -4 

6% 

6*4 

6 

5f 

5f 

5f 

Al/ 

11 

16** 

22 

27*4 

33 

38* 

44 

49* 

°72 

11 

334 

7*4 

6i 

6f 

6 

12 

18 

24 

30 

36 

42 

48 

54 

12 

9 

8 

7*4 

n 

7 

6f 

6f 

14 

21 

28 

35 

42 

49 

56 

63 

i 

14 

1034 

94 

834 

81 

8f 

8 

7f 

8 

16 

24 

32 

40 

48 

56 

64 

72 

16 

12 

10** 

10 

Of 

Of 

Of 

9 

9 

18 

27 

36 

45 

54 

63 

72 

81 

18 

>334 

12 

11*4 

lOf 

10* 

lOf 

10* 

It  is  assumed  that  the  photographer  knows  exactly  what  the 
focus  of  his  lens  is,  and  that  he  is  able  to  measure  accurately 


50 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


from  its  optical  center.  The  use  of  the  table  will  be  seen  from 
the  following  illustration :  A  photographer  has  a  carte  to  en¬ 
large  to  four  times  its  size,  and  the  lens  he  intends  employing 
is  one  of  six  inches  equivalent  focus.  He  must,  therefore, 
look  for  4  on  the  upper  horizontal  line,  and  for  6  in  the  verti¬ 
cal  column,  and  carry  his  eye  to  where  these  two  join,  which 
will  be  at  30 — 7J.  The  greater  of  these  is  the  distance  the 
sensitive  plate  must  be  from  the  center  of  the  lens,  and  the 
lesser,  the  distance  of  the  picture  to  be  copied.  To  reduce  a 
picture  any  given  number  of  times,  the  same  method  must  be 
followed ;  but  in  this  case  the  greater  number  will  represent 
the  distance  between  the  lens  and  the  picture  to  be  copied — 
the  latter,  that  between  the  lens  and  the  sensitive  plate.  This 
explanation  will  be  sufficient  for  every  case  of  enlargement 
or  reduction. 

If  the  focus  of  the  lens  be  twelve  inches,  as  this  number  is 
not  in  the  column  of  focal  lengths,  look  out  for  6  in  this  col¬ 
umn  and  multiply  by  2  ;  and  so  on  with  any  other  numbers 


CHAPTER  XL 


INSTANTANEOUS  PHOTOGRAPHY. 

Considerable  is  heard  about  instantaneous  photography  at 
the  present  time.  It  is  a  subject  that  interests  every  one. 
When  made  practicable,  the  photographer  eagerly  seized  hold 
of  the  lightning  process,  applied  it  in  taking  the  pictures  of 
restless  children. 

It  is  enough  to  lure  any  one  into  amateur  photography,  the 
very  thought  of  picturing  animated  objects  distinctly,  with  all 
the  appearance  of  motion  instantly  arrested. 

The  amateur  may  infer  that  the  appliances  for  securing  in¬ 
stantaneous  pictures  are  very  complicated.  Hot  at  all?  It  is 
necessary  to  use  gelatine  plates  of  great  sensitiveness.  These 
are  regularly  kept  on  hand  by  dealers  in  photographic  goods. 
The  second  requisite  is  that  the  lens  used  on  the  camera  should 
be  provided  with  a  drop,  or  else  that  instantaneous  shutters 
be  fitted  on  to  the  lens  or  camera.  The  day  chosen  for  taking 
the  picture  should  be  a  bright*  one,  and  the  time  between  10 
a.m.  and  2  p.m.  is  much  to  be  preferred.  See  that  the  ob¬ 
ject  to  be  photographed  is  brightly  illuminated  on  the  side  to¬ 
ward  the  camera. 

Suppose  a  passing  steamboat  first  calls  into  use  the  instan¬ 
taneous  drop  on  a  lens  you  possess.  Your  ambition  is  sud¬ 
denly  awakened  when  the  boat  looms  up  in  the  distance,  and 
you  plant  the  tripod  and  point  the  camera  toward  where  it 
will  soon  pass.  Judge  how  far  it  wbll  be  away  from  you  as  it 
glides  by,  and  obtain  an  approximate  focus  for  this  distance. 

If  possible,  focus  upon  an  object  as  remote  as  the  steamboat 
will  be  in  passing  the  point  where  the  picture  is  to  be  taken. 
Secure  the  focus  by  this  method,  or  by  using  your  own  judg¬ 
ment.  If  the  drop  is  not  already  in  the  lens  put  it  in,  and 


52 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


hold  it  up  by  a  turn  of  the  button  underneath  the  lens.  Sub¬ 
stitute  a  holder  for  the  ground  glass. 

As  the  steamboat  is  now  near  at  hand,  draw  out  the  dark 
slide  separating  the  sensitive  plate  from  the  camera,  and  lay  it 
on  top  of  the  latter.  Stand  behind  the  camera,  grasping  the 
cord  attached  to  the  button  holding  up  the  intantaneous  drop. 

Keep  cool  as  an  old  hunter,  look  over  the  top  of  the  cam¬ 
era,  and  when  the  boat  arrives  at  a  point  directly  in  the  line 
that  the  lens  points  to,  pull  the  cord.  As  the  opening  in  the 
drop  passes  through  the  lens  the  light  flashes  through  the 
aperture  to  the  gelatine  plate,  and  the  image  is  impressed 
there.  Is  there  any  other  demonstration  needed  of  the  rapid¬ 
ity  with  which  light  travels  ?  The  amateur  may  have  been 
nervous,  and  have  pulled  the  cord  too  soon.  Instead  of  the 
whole  steamboat,  he  finds  but  the  forward  half  of  it  when  the 
picture  is  brought  out ;  or,  on  the  other  hand,  only  the  stern 
and  the  wake  of  the  boat  may  be  caught.  Hence  it  is  well  to 
have  and  use  a  Waterbury  Adjustable  Finder  for  instantane¬ 
ous  photography. 


Sport,  like  shooting  at  birds  in  their  flight,  cannot  be  more 
exciting  and  exhilarating.  If  the  amateur  “  shoots”  at  a 
steamboat  with  his  camera  and  hits  a  barge,  he  will  succeed 
better  upon  the  next  trial.  The  fall  of  the  instantaneous  drop 
by  the  law  of  gravitation,  will  do  for  the  first  attempt.  After 
a  time  the  amateur  will  scheme  and  contrive,  by  the  use  of  an 
elastic  band  over  the  top  of  the  drop  or  by  some  other  device, 


INSTANTANEOUS  PHOTOGRAPHY. 


53 


to  shorten  the  exposure.  The  ambition  to  reduce  the  time 
from  one-tenth  to  one-thousandth  part  of  a  second  and  less,  is 
similar  to  that  of  turfmen  in  striving  to  have  their  racers  ex¬ 
cel  all  previous  records  of  time. 

“  Shooting”  yachts  that  are  dashing  along  through  the 
waves  under  full  sail  is  a  favorite  accomplishment  of  the  full- 
fledged  amateur.  The  beauty  and  life  of  the  yacht  may  be 
portrayed  perfectly. 

Many  amateurs  have  stated  that  the  pleasure  of  picture 
taking  was  never  fully  realized  until  they  procured  one  of 
the  Scovill  Detective  Cameras.  I  make  mention  of  this 
one  because  there  is  nothing  to  betray  the  presence  of  a 
lightning  lens  and  perfectly  regulated  shutter,  nothing  in 
the  shape  of  external  mechanism  to  call  attention  to  its 
purpose. 

The  only  cautions  I  have  to  give  are,  do  not  attempt  too 
much  at  first  in  instantaneous  work ;  and  the  other  piece  of 
advice  relates  to  the  development  of  gelatine  plates  exposed 
but  for  a  fractional  part  of  a  second.  More  care  is  needed 
than  for  the  ordinary  plates.  My  plan  is  to  mix  a  fresh  de¬ 
veloper  for  each  plate,  consisting  of  two  ounces  of  oxalate  of 
potash  solution  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the  iron  solution. 
Should  this  prove  too  weak,  more  iron  solution  may  be 
added,  but  do  not  put  in  too  much.  When  the  details 
are  brought  out,  pour  off  the  developer,  and  flow  over  the 
plate  some  of  the  old  oxalate  developer.  This  will  give 
density  without  danger  of  fogging  the  plate.  Wash  and  fix, 
then  wash  and  dry.  After  the  negative  is  dry,  if  on  examina¬ 
tion  it  requires  to  be  strengthened,  proceed  as  follows :  Lay 
the  plate,  film  side  up,  in  a  tray  containing  clear  water,  while 
you  mix  the  intensifying  solution.  In  thirty-two  ounces  of 
water  (one  quart),  dissolve  one  ounce  of  chloride  of  ammonia 
and  one  ounce  of  chloride  of  mercury.  Pour  off  the  water 
from  the  plate  and  cover  it  with  some  of  the  above  mercury 
solution  diluted  one-half  with  water  (that  is,  an  equal  part  of 
the  solution  and  water).  Leave  this  on  the  plate  until  it  has 
uniformly  whitened,  which  will  take  but  a  few  seconds,  then 


54 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


pour  it  off  and  wash  the  plate  well.  Also  rinse  out  the  tray, 
into  which  replace  the  plate  film  side  up. 

Take  four  ounces  of  water,  and  to  it  add  one  dram  of  liquid 
ammonia.  Pour  this  on  the  plate  so  it  flows  quickly  and 
evenly  over  it.  The  negative  will  turn  dark  brown.  As  soon 
as  it  has  done  so,  remove  it  from  the  tray,  wash,  and  set  it  up 
to  dry. 

Throw  away  the  ammonia  solution,  and  wash  out  the  tray. 

Developing  solutions  for  instantaneous  exposures,  to  be  used 
when  a  more  energetic  developer  than  the  ferrous  oxalate  is 
necessary : 

P. — Citric  acid,  60  grains 

Water,  - . 7  ounces. 

Dissolve,  and  add 


Pyrogallic  acid, 

Water  sufficient  to  make  measure,  - 
A. — Liquor  ammonia, 

Water,  ------ 


1  ounce 
10  ounces. 

2  ounces 
8  ounces. 


B. — Bromide  of  ammonium  or  potassium,  1  ounce 
Water,  to  make  -  -  -  10  ounces. 


Development. — Add  one  ounce  of  solution  P  to  thirteen 
ounces  water;  one  ounce  solution  A  and  one  ounce  solution  B 
to  twelve  ounces  water.  Mix  equal  parts  of  each  for  develop¬ 
ing.  Two  ounces  of  each  will  be  ample  for  a  5x8  or  6Jx8J 
plate,  to  be  mixed  just  before  laying  plate  in  the  developing 
dish.  Flow  the  developer  by  a  gentle  motion  over  the  plate. 
The  image  soon  appears  and,  if  correctly  exposed,  will  attain 
full  density  in  sixty  to  ninety  seconds.  Allow  development  to 
proceed  till  the  detail  in  the  deepest  shadows  is  well  brought 
out. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


HOTOGRAPHY  WITH  THE  MICROSCOPE. 


The  microscopist  needs  a  convenient  method  to  enable  him 
to  easily  and  correctly  reproduce  the  result  of  his  observations. 
Granted  that  this  is  now  practicable,  it  follows  that  greater  in¬ 
terest  in  microscopy  itself  must  be  awakened,  and  pathological, 
entomological,  and  many  branches  of  study  and  research  be 
wonderfully  aided  by  the  use  of  a  photo-microscopic  camera. 
As  I  am  in  microscopy  but  a  novice,  though  with  growing 
interest,  I  will  quote  what  is  said  on  this  subject  in  the  Photo¬ 
graphic  Times  and  American  Photographer : 

Photographing  with  the  microscope  has  hitherto  been  ac¬ 
complished  by  the  aid  of  elaborate  and  costly  apparatus,  and 
been  applied  chiefly  to  making  illustrations  for  scientific  maga¬ 
zines.  The  process  used,  that  of  wet  collodion  in  connection  with 
sunlight,  involved  the  procurement  of  an  expensive  heliostat  to 
produce  a  steady  illumination,  for  with  any  less  powerful  light 
the  exposure  would  necessarily  be  so  prolonged  that  the  coating 
of  the  plate  would  dry  and  become  useless.  Now  all  this  is 
changed,  for  with  the  modern  improvements  in  photography, 
which  are  the  result  of  the  introduction  of  gelatine  dry  plates, 
the  photographing  of  microscopic  objects  becomes  as  easy  of 
accomplishment  as  the  photographing  of  the  beautiful  and 
visible  in  nature,  is  with  the  popular  amateur  outfits.  I  there¬ 
fore  propose  briefly,  yet  fully,  to  describe  how  it  can  be  done 
by  means  of  an  inexpensive  outfit.  The  scientist  and  micro¬ 
scopist,  instead  of  spending  hours  in  making  imperfect  draw¬ 
ings,  aided  by  the  camera  lucida,  may  in  a  few  minutes,  with 
the  assistance  of  photography,  produce  a  more  perfect  repre¬ 
sentation  of  a  minute  object  than  it  is  possible  for  the  hand  of 
man  to  do,  working  conjointly  with  the  eye.  Not  only  can  an 
enlarged  image  of  a  microscopic  object  be  formed  for  illustra¬ 
tion,  but  professors  in  colleges  will  find  it  a  ready  means  to 
produce  negatives  of  a  suitable  size  from  which  may  be  made 


56 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


transparencies  or  magic  lantern  slides  for  exhibition  to  classes 
or  the  public. 

The  necessary  requisites  for  those  in  possession  of  a  micro 
scope  are  a  suitable  artificial  light,  a  half -plate  camera  made 
for  this  purpose,  gelatine  dry  plates,  and  chemicals  for  de¬ 
velopment. 

The  Scovill  Manufacturing  Company  have,  with  their  usual 
promptness  to  meet  any  new  and  real  want  in  the  art-science 
of  photography,  constructed  a  suitable  camera  of  a  size  to  use 
what  are  known  as  the  half  and  quarter  plates.  The  writer 
has  devised  and  patented  a  lantern  for  dry  plate  use,  which  by 
the  addition  of  a  condenser  furnishes  a  light  for  use  with  the 
microscope,  and  its  convenience  is  such  that  when  arranged 


Fig.  17. 


with  the  microscope  and  camera  (as  shown  in  Fig.  17)  it  fur¬ 
nishes  a  clear,  strong  light  for  photographing,  and  then  a  red 
or  non-actinic  light  for  developing  the  exposed  plates,  without 
any  change  but  a  half  reversal  of  the  lantern.  If  made  use  of 
in  the  daytime,  a  room  from  which  all  white  light  is  excluded 
should  be  selected ;  but  if  used  at  night,  as  in  most  cases  it 
would  be,  the  operations  may  all  be  performed  in  the  midst  of 
a  family  group  for  their  interest  and  amusement,  and  to  im¬ 
part  to  them  knowledge  of  the  minute  life  or  organisms  of  the 
world  which  the  microscope  alone  can  reveal. 

Having  provided  yourself  with  a  photomicroscopic  equip¬ 
ment,  consisting  of  a  Multum  in  Parvo  lantern  and  condenser, 
a  Scovill  half-plate  camera,  some  Keystone  B  plates,  4Jx 5J- 
size,  to  make  negatives,  also  some  A  plates,  3^x4^  size,  for 
transparencies,  and  the  necessary  chemicals,  proceed  to  set  up 


PHOTOGRAPHY  WITH  THE  MICROSCOPE. 


57 


the  apparatus.  First,  procure  a  board  one  inch  thick,  about 
four  feet  in  length  and  a  trifle  wider  than  the  camera.  Screw 
battens  on  the  under  side  in  order  to  keep  the  upper  surface 
flat  and  free  from  warping,  tack  on  the  sides  a  thin  strip  of 
wood,  allowing  it  to  project  half  an  inch  above  the  surface,  so 
that  camera,  microscope  and  lantern  can  all  be  dept  in  line. 
To  be  successful,  it  will  be  necessary  in  arranging  the  appara¬ 
tus  for  the  first  time  to  do  so  with  care,  so  that  it  can  at  any 
future  time  be  put  in  position  without  a  waste  of  time.  Place 
the  baseboard  on  any  flat  surface — a  table  or  bench — make 
four  wooden  wedges,  place  them  under  the  sides  near  the  end, 
and  with  a  spirit  level  proceed  to  level  the  surface  both  in  its 
width  and  length.  Now,  on  the  left-hand  end  of  the  board 
place  the  camera ;  in  the  middle  of  the  board  place  the  micro¬ 
scope,  with  the  tube  set  horizontally  ;  see  if  the  eye-piece  cen¬ 
ters  with  the  center  of  the  camera.  If  it  does  not  and  is 
lower,  place  a  thin  board  under  the  microscope  or  raise  it  till 
its  center  corresponds  to  the  center  of  the  camera,  and  then 
proceed  to  test  the  tube  of  the  microscope  by  placing  the  level 
on  it  in  the  direction  of  its  length ;  if  not  level  it  must  be 
made  so  by  any  suitable  means  that  can  be  applied  to  it.  If 
the  microscope  is  found  to  center  with  the  camera  as  it  rests 
on  the  baseboard,  a  ready  means  of  placing  it  in  position  at 
any  future  time  is  to  mark  exactly  where  it  stands  and  thus 
save  future  calculations.  Adjust  the  lantern  so  that  the  dia¬ 
phragm  of  the  condenser  centers  with  and  is  in  line  with  the 
objective  of  the  microscope,  then,  finally,  by  connecting  the 
tube  of  the  microscope  with  the  cone  of  the  camera,  at  the 
end  of  which  is  a  sleeve  of  rubber  cloth,  the  apparatus  is 
ready  for  use. 

I  have  somewhat  minutely  described  the  first  arrangement 
of  the  various  parts,  because  neglect  of  a  proper  adjustment 
at  the  beginning  might  result  in  failure.  When  arranged  as 
described,  and  the  position  of  each  marked  for  future  guid¬ 
ance,  these  parts  are  easily  and  quickly  put  together  at  any 
future  time,  and  the  baseboard  can  be  placed  on  any  conven¬ 
ient  support.  I  use  and  recommend  as  guards  against  jarring, 
four  hard  rubber  balls  placed  in  the  sunken  center  of  four 
small  blocks  of  wood,  as  shown  in  Fig.  17. 

Now,  all  being  ready,  light  the  lamp,  after  filling  the  reser¬ 
voir  not  more  than  two-thirds  full  with  good  head  light  oil ; 
trim  the  wick  square  on  the  top,  let  it  burn  a  few  minutes, 
then  adjust  the  wick  for  a  bright  but  not  too  high  flame. 
Turn  the  lamp  by  the  button  underneath  so  that  the  re- 


58 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


flector  throws  the  light  through  the  door  without  the  porce¬ 
lain  screen  at  the  left  side  of  the  lantern  ;  then  unscrew  the 
burner  a  little  and  turn  it  so  that  a  perspective  view  of  the 
flame  is  presented  to  the  eye  when  on  a  line  with  the  camera 
and  microscope ;  adjust  the  reflector  so  that  the  center  of  re¬ 
flection  coincides  with  the  center  of  the  white  part  of  the 
flame  (this  can  be  done  by  temporarily  removing  the  sliding 
back  of  lantern);  then  place  in  position  the  condenser  by  slip¬ 
ping  the  frame  under  the  upper  metal  strip  in  the  left-hand 
opening  and  bending  the  lower  metal  strip  against  it.  Put 
the  object  to  be  photographed  on  the  stage  of  the  microscope; 
first  see  that  a  sharp  disc  of  light  is  formed  on  the  ground 
glass  of  the  camera  ;  it  may  require,  and  most  likely  will,  a 
forward  or  lateral  adjustment  of  the  lantern  with  its  condenser 
to  get  the  best  light  effect,  and  when  this  is  obtained  mark  on 
the  baseboard  for  future  guidance.  Proceed  to  arrange  the 
size  of  the  picture  by  looking  at  the  image  on  the  ground 
glass  and  focus  with  the  course  adjustment,  first  removing  the 
eye-piece. 

After  having  got  the  image  of  suitable  size,  I  advise  the  fol¬ 
lowing  mode  of  final  focusing :  Take  a  piece  of  clear  flat  glass 
of  the  same  size  as  the  gelatine  plate,  place  this  in  the  holder 
with  the  back  and  slide  taken  out,  and  with  a  magnifier  ad¬ 
justed  to  the  surface  of  the  glass,  proceed  to  focus  with  this 
fine  adjustment ;  then,  by  ruby  light,  replace  the  plain  glass 
by  a  sensitive  gelatine  plate — of  course  replacing  the  slide  and 
back — place  it  on  the  camera,  and  with  a  piece  of  card,  tem¬ 
porarily  cut  off  the  light ;  withdraw  the  slide  and  allow  the 
light  to  act  for  45,  90  or  120  seconds,  according  to  the  object 
and  amount  of  amplication.  One  or  two  trials  is  the  only  way 
of  arriving  at  a  correct  judgment  of  the  requisite  exposure. 
With  a  one  to  three  inch  microscopic  objective  I  have  found 
the  time  to  average  as  above  quoted,  and  that  the  color  of  the 
object  influences  this  greatly,  one  strong  in  color — such  as 
most  insect  specimens — requiring  from  sixty  to  ninety  seconds, 
using  a  one  to  two  inch  double  system  objective.  The  expos¬ 
ure  being  made,  the  development  and  finishing  of  the  negative 
is  conducted  as  described  in  the  preceding  chapters  of  this  book. 

Many  thanks  are  due  to  my  good  friend  Mr.  Carbutt  for  his  kindly  sug¬ 
gestions,  as  they  hastened  the  completion  of  an  equipment  which  in  ray 
sincere  belief,  answers  a  long  felt  want,  and  will  aid  materially  in  scientific 
investigation  with  the  microscope,  bring  the  results  before  the  eyes  and  to 
the  understanding  of  a  far  greater  number  than  ever  before,  and  indeed 
develop  another  and  new  form  of  social  or  home  entertainment. 


CHAFER  XIII. 


STEREOSCOPIC  PICTURES. 

How  to  M ake  and  Mount  Them . — The  camera 
used  to  make  stereoscopic  pictures  should  take  a  5x8-inch  plate 
in  the  holder,  have  an  upright  division  through  the  center,  and 
upon  the  front  board  a  pair  of  matched  view  lenses  screwed 
into  the  flanges.  Such  are  the  requisites  for  this  special  ser¬ 
vice.  Make  sure  that  the  central  partition,  called  a  stereo, 
division,  is  fastened  in  place. 

Some  discernment  is  needed  in  selecting  the  subject  for  a 
stereoscopic  view.  If  the  camera  points  to  a  distant  hillside, 
and  there  is  no  near  object  included  in  the  range,  the  view  will 
appear  flat  when  seen  through  the  stereoscope,  and  will  not 
seem  to  stand  out  from  the  mount.  There  should  be  included 
in  the  image  reflected  on  the  ground  glass  a  near  as  well  as 
the  more  remote  view.  Some  shrubbery,  the  stump  of  a  tree, 
or  any  distant  and  still  object  will  answer.  Stereo,  pictures 
made  upon  this  principle,  have  the  most  seeming  actuality 
about  them.  If  the  two  pictures  seen  upon  the  ground  glass 
are  exactly  alike,  it  is  a  proof  that  the  lenses  in  use  are  well 
matched.  After  focusing,  put  the  plate  holder  up  in  place  of 
the  ground  glass. 

As  it  is  essential  to  success  that  the  exposure  of  the  two 
lenses  should  be  made  at  the  same  time,  place  the  focusing 
cloth  on  top  of  the  camera,  falling  over  to  cover  the  lenses,  and 
keep  the  cloth  tightly  drawn  over  them.  Full  out  the  dark 
slide  and,  as  usual,  lay  it  on  top  of  the  camera,  How,  all  is  in 
readiness.  Raise  the  focusing  cloth  quickly.  Do  this  so  that 
light  will  enter  the  apertures  in  the  lenses  simultaneously. 
After  a  proper  length  of  exposure,  drop  the  focusing  cloth 
over  the  lenses  and  replace  the  dark  slide.  F ollow  directions 


60 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


in  Chapter  IV.  for  the  development  of  the  plate,  but  use  care 
not  to  get  one  side  of  it  more  intense  than  the  other;  in  short, 
the  negative  should  be  treated  the  same  as  any  other,  until  it 
is  ready  to  be  printed  from.  Take  a  piece  of  ground  glass,  a 
trifle  larger  than  the  stereo,  negative,  and  upon  it  draw  with  a 

lead  pencil  the  diagram  shown  in 
figure  18. 

The  distance  between  each  of 
the  lines  E  and  the  perpendicular 
D  O  should  be  3-J  inches,  and 
from  the  base  line  to  the  crown 
of  both  arches,  3  j-  inches. 

These  proportions  make  the 
very  desirable  size  of  stereo,  pictures  commonly  called  the 
“  artistic .” 

Lay  the  negative,  film  side  up,  upon  the  marked  ground 
glass  so  that  the  right-hand  half  will  come  over  the  right-hand 
form  penciled  thereon,  and  vice  versa.  Take  in  the  best  por¬ 
tion  of  the  subject.  With  care  move  the  negative  so  that  the 
line  A  B  will  pass  through  similar  objects  in  both  halves :  also 
adjust  the  negative  to  have  the  perpendicular  CD  pass  through 
defined  lines  or  objects  in  the  right  half.  With  a  sharp- 
pointed  instrument  scratch  on  the  negative,  using  a  straight- 
edged  ruler,  the  line  A  B  also  the  line  E.  Shift  the  negative 
so  that  the  perpendicular  C  D  will  intersect  points  or  objects 
corresponding  to  those  in  the  other  half.  At  the  same  time 
the  scratched  base  line  must  coincide  with,  or  be  directly  above, 
the  line  A  B  on  the  ground  glass.  Now,  scratch  the  left-hand 
line  E ,  and  the  negative  will  be  ready  for  printing. 

All  of  the  prints  made  will  show  a  black  base  line,  and  the 
two  outside  ones  E  E.  Turn  the  prints  face  downward,  and 
upon  the  back  of  the  right-hand  half  mark  with  a  pencil  the 
letter  Z,  and  on  the  left-hand  picture  the  letter  R.  Now, 
reverse  the  prints  to  have  the  face  upward.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
that  you  have  available  a  glass  form  3-J  inches  wides  by  31- 
inches  high,  with  an  arch  top.  Set  down  this  form  upon  each 
print  alternately,  so  that  the  lower  edge  will  be  on  the  line  A 


Fig.  18. 


STEREOSCOPIC  PICTURES. 


61 


B,  and  one  side  on  one  of  the  lines  E.  With  a  sharp  knife 
or  a  Robinson  Trimmer  cut  closely  around  the  form.  The 
Robinson  Trimmer  is  suggested  because  it  is  so  desirable  that 
it  has  the  commendation  of  photographers  everywhere.  Al¬ 
ways  cut  the  prints  on  a  light  of  glass. 

In  mounting  the  prints  on  the  card,  put  the  one  marked  L 
on  the  left-hand  side,  and  the  one  marked  11  on  the  right  side, 
and  have  the  two  edges  meet  in  the  center  of  the  card  ;  also, 
have  an  equal  margin  above  and  below  the  pictures.  If  you 
can  avail  yourself  of  a  printing  press  or  hand  stamp  with  mov¬ 
able  type,  and  choose  to  do  so,  you  can  print  on  fine  tissue 
paper  the  name  of  the  picture  or  locality  of  the  view.  In 
printing  from  the  negative,  this  piece  of  tissue  paper  is  laid  on 
the  face  of  the  negative  in  one  corner,  so  that  the  lettering 
will  copy  on  to  the  print  in  the  place  shown  by  dotted  lines 
on  Fig.  18.  Thin  tissue  or  onion-skin  paper  will  not  prevent 
the  printing  of  any  part  of  the  negative — the  effect  is  to  make 
the  operation  a  slower  one. 

The  instruction  contained  in  this  chapter  will  be  pronounced 
quite  elementary  by  men  of  experience.  The  reasons  why 
have  not  been  given,  but  enough  is  stated  to  enable  the  ama¬ 
teur  to  secure  good  results. 

Indeed,  the  same  is  true  of  all  that  precedes,  and  I  do  not 
imagine  that  any  one  will  think  that  he  has  mastered  all  there 
is  in  photography  after  fortifying  by  experience  the  teachings 
of  this  book. 

The  purpose  is  to  enable  the  amateur  to  meet  with  success, 
and  to  furnish  a  stepping  stone  by  which  books  more  technical 
and  profound  will  be  made  intelligible  and  interesting  to  the 
non-professional  photographer.  Yery  few,  I  think,  will  be 
satisfied  with  the  rudiments  of  this  truly  fascinating  art . 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


USEFUL  INFORMATION. 

In  summer  keep  your  solutions  cool ;  also  use  cold  water  in 
washing  the  gelatine  plates. 

In  winter  keep  your  solutions  from  freezing. 

Should  crystallization  appear  on  a  negative  after  it  is  dry, 
it  shows  a  failure  to  thoroughly  wash  the  negative  before 
drying. 

Do  not  use  the  fixing  pan  for  any  other  purpose  than  to 
hold  the  hypo  solution.  Label  the  pan  “Hypo ,”  so  that  there 
will  he  no  mistake. 

Always  wash  your  hands  after  using  the  hyposulphite  of 
soda  solution,  and  before  handling  another  plate. 

After  removal  from  the  fixing  solution,  the  negative  must 
have  the  hyposulphite  of  soda  thoroughly  washed  out  of  the 
film.  This  is  important . 

All  trays  and  measures  should  be  washed  out  after  develop¬ 
ing  each  plate. 

Never  fail  to  pour  clear  water  over  the  plate  before  develop¬ 
ing.  If  you  follow  this  direction,  disagreeable  markings, 
resulting  from  a  stoppage  in  the  flow  of  the  developer,  will  be 
avoided,  and  at  the  same  time  air  bubbles,  which  cause  trans¬ 
parent  spots  in  the  negative,  will  he  prevented. 

A  plate  varnished  before  it  is  thoroughly  dry  has  a  milky 
appearance. 

Keep  sensitized  plates  in  a  cool,  dry  place ;  dampness  causes 
them  to  mildew. 

Clear  negatives  cannot  he  produced  with  an  alkaline  sample 
of  oxalate  of  potash. 

Bromide  in  the  developer  restrains  its  action,  hut  too  much 
destroys  details  in  the  shadows. 


USEFUL  INFORMATION. 


63 


If  negatives  show  too  much  contrast  between  the  light  and 
the  dark  portions,  weaken  the  developer  by  the  addition  of 
water. 

By  taking  an  extra  ground  glass  when  going  far  away  from 
a  base  of  supplies,  should  the  one  in  use  get  broken,  the  second 
one  will  be  a  welcome  substitute. 

Under-exposure  gives  clear  shadows,  hut  the  picture  pro¬ 
duced  from  the  negative  is  wanting  in  detail,  and  has  a  hard 
appearance. 

Dust  off  the  surface  of  gelatine  plates  with  a  soft  camel’s- 
hair  brush.  The  so-called  pin  holes  in  the  negative  are  caused 
by  dust.  In  this  connection  it  will  be  well  to  add,  keep  the 
camera,  lens  and  holder  well  dusted  out,  for  no  evil  effect  will 
result  from  it.  Quite  the  reverse. 

Plates  sometimes  commence  to  pucker  at  the  edge.  This 
is  called  “frilling?  Should  it  show  itself  at  any  stage  of  the 
manipulation,  immedialy  remove  the  recalcitrant  plate  and 
flow  over  its  surface  a  saturated  solution  of  alum,  wash  the 
plate,  and  proceed  from  the  point  where  you  left  off.  A  strong 
solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  often  causes  frilling ;  so  do 
warm  solutions,  and  treating  the  negative  with  a  weak  solu¬ 
tion  of  acids. 

To  prevent  plates  frilling  which  show  a  tendency  to  do  so, 
take  a  camel-hair  or  sable  pencil  and  dip  it  into  your  S.  P.  C. 
negative  varnish.  Then  carefully  go  round  the  edges  of  the 
plate,  just  allowing  the  brush  to  touch  the  film ;  then  set  it  up 
to  dry,  which  will  not  take  a  minute.  This  can  he  done  before 
or  after  exposing  the  plates,  as  may  be  preferred. 

Over-exposed  plates,  if  not  properly  controlled  in  the  de¬ 
veloping,  have  a  thin  appearance,  and  they  will  make  weak 
prints. 

If  the  edge  of  the  plates,  which  were  protected  by  the 
grooves  in  the  holder,  remain  clear,  then  fogging  comes  from 
lack  of  care  in  developing. 

When  a  plate  is  under-exposed  its  shadows  are  clear  but 
weak. 

Negatives  which  require  a  long  time  to  fix,  show  one  of  two 


64 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


things :  either  the  hyposulphite  of  soda  solution  is  too  strong 
or  too  weak.  About  one  ounce  of  the  soda  to  six  ounces  of 
water  is  a  safe  rule  to  go  by  in  making  this  solution. 

Negatives  from  which  a  number  of  prints  are  required  must 
be  varnished,  or  otherwise  they  will  turn  red  from  a  combina¬ 
tion  of  the  free  silver  in  the  sensitized  paper  with  the  gelatine 
film  of  the  negative.  Exposed  plates  may  be  kept  some  weeks 
before  developing,  but  the  better  plan  is  to  do  this  as  soon  as 
possible  after  taking  the  view. 

Should  a  plate  by  accident  be  exposed  to  light,  it  may  pos¬ 
sibly  be  recovered  for  service  in  the  following  manner :  In  two 
ounces  of  water  dissolve  twenty  grains  bichromate  of  potash. 
Into  this  solution  lay  the  light-struck  plate  for  five  minutes — 
of  course ,  this  is  done  in  the  dark  room.  At  the  expiration  of 
the  time,  it  is  taken  out  of  the  solution  and  washed  in  several 
changes  of  fresh  water,  and  set  up  to  dry  by  ruby  light.  When 
dry,  the  plate  is  ready  to  be  placed  in  a  plate  holder  and  ex¬ 
posed.  If  not  to  be  used,  pack  the  plate  away  where  concealed 
from  light. 

When  a  plate  is  exposed  in  the  camera,  and  you  are  certain 
that  the  result  is  not  good,  as,  for  instance,  in  taking  a  group 
of  which  one  or  more  of  the  figures  moved,  put  the  plate 
through  the  mild  course  of  treatment  just  described,  and  it 
may  be  rejuvenated  for  use  a  second  time,  with  a  more  success¬ 
ful  result. 

Mistakes  in  timing  an  exposure  are  many.  The  professional 
photographer  may  err.  If  the  calculation  cannot  be  made 
with  certainty,  have  the  error  on  the  side  of  over  rather  than 
under-exposure,  as  the  former  can  be  controlled  in  the  devel¬ 
opment. 

To  Reduce  the  Density  of  a  Negative. — Make 
first  a  saturated  solution  of  red  prussiate  of  potash,  and, 
secondly,  dissolve  one  ounce  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  ten 
ounces  of  water.  Add  to  the  second  solution  as  much  of 
the  first  as  to  give  it  the  color  of  dark  sherry  wine.  Flow  this 
compound  over  the  whole  plate,  watching  its  action  carefully. 
The  reduction  of  the  negative  deposit  will  take  place  imme* 


USEFUL  INFORMATION. 


65 


diately  and  progress  slowly  but  steadily,  but  should  not  be 
earried  on  any  beyond  a  point  somewhat  higher  than  the 
one  wanted.  As  the  reducing  agent  has  penetrated  the 
film,  a  sudden  interruption  of  the  process  will  not  stop  its 
action  at  once,  but  will  be  continued  for  some  time  afterwards, 
and  in  order  not  to  endanger  the  negative  a  thorough  washing 
in  pure  water  is  requisite.  The  stronger  the  solution  the  more 
forcible  its  action.  If  only  a  slight  reduction  is  needed  the 
solution  must  be  prepared  accordingly.  For  local  reduction 
the  compound  may  be  mixed  with  gum  arabic  mucilage,  and 
applied  carefully  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush,  the  addition  of  gum 
preventing  the  flowing  of  the  solution  over  the  outlines  of 
those  parts.  If  properly  manipulated  excellent  effects  can  be 
obtained. 

Density  in  a  negative  may  be  increased  in  this  way :  After 
the  detail  is  brought  out  with  the  oxalate  developer  you  are 
using,  pour  it  off  and  flow  over  the  plate  the  old  oxalate  de¬ 
veloper  mentioned  on  page  00,  containing  three  grains  to  the 
ounce  of  bromide  of  potassium.  If  after  this  treatment  you 
still  lack  the  density  you  require,  fix  the  plate  in  a  solution 
made  up  as  follows  :  Dissolve  one  ounce  of  protosulphate  of 
iron  in  three  ounces  of  water.  In  another  bottle  dissolve  one 
ounce  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  three  ounces  of  water.  Mix 
the  two  solutions  in  a  tray,  permit  them  to  stand  a  while,  and 
then  immerse  the  negative  in  the  mingled  solutions.  After 
fixing,  wash  and  dry  the  negative. 

Fogging » — Fogging,  as  defined  by  Lake  Price,  “  is  an 
opaque  film  covering  a  negative,  which  obliterates  the  forms, 
preventing  them  from  being  clearly  distinguished  in  whatever 
direction  they  may  be  viewed.”  Thomas  Sutton  writes  thus 
concerning  it :  “  When  a  precipitate  is  thrown  over  the  entire 
plate  by  the  action  of  the  developer,  so  as  to  obscure  in  the 
deepest  shadows  the  transparency  of  the  glass  when  looked 
through,  it  is  fog.”  The  causes  of  fog  are  many.  It  may  re¬ 
sult  from  white  light  falling  on  the  sensitive  plate. 

Another  cause  is  defective  development. 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


Another,  hyposulphite  of  soda  getting  in  the  developer. 

Or  chemicals  put  on  the  plate  from  the  hands,  which  were 
not  washed. 

Or  trying  to  force  the  development  of  an  under-exposed  plate. 

Not  properly  modifying  the  developer  for  an  over-exposed 
plate. 

Using  an  alkaline  sample  of  oxalate  of  potash. 

Or  exposing  plates  in  an  old  holder  having  free  silver  about  it. 

When  troubled  with  fog,  examine  the  gelatine  plate,  and  if 
the  edges  which  were  protected  by  the  rabeted  edge  of  the 
holder  are  clear,  the  fault  is  chargeable  to  the  development,  as 
the  plate  was  evidently  over-exposed  and  the  developer  not 
modified  to  meet  the  case.  If  the  fog  is  all  over  the  plate,  it 
may  have  come  from  white  lights,  from  an  alkaline  oxalate, 
from  under-exposure,  and  forcing  the  development. 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 

Apothecaries’  Weight, 
solid  measure. 

20  Grains  =  1  Scruple  =  3 

3  Scruples  =  1  Dram  ==  3 

8  Drams  =  1  Ounce  =  § 

12  Ounces  =  1  Pound  =  lb. 

fluid. 

60  Minims  =  1  Fuid  Dram  3 

8  Drams  =  1  Ounce  § 

20  Ounces  =  1  Pint. 

8  Pints  =  1  Gallon. 

The  above  weights  are  those  usually  adopted  in  formulas 
and  are  what  are  used  in  the  foregoing  chapters.  Many  other 
useful  tables  are  given  in  the  “  American. Annual  of  Photog¬ 
raphy  and  Photographic  Times  Almanac,”  and  this  book  will 
be  found  very  conveniently  arranged  for  reference.  As  the 


USEFUL  INFORMATION. 


67 


amateur  advances  in  the  picture-making  art,  he  will,  without 
doubt,  read  up  in  photographic  literature,  a  course  which  can¬ 
not  be  too  highly  commended. 

He  will  also  be  inclined  to  experiment  a  little.  It  is  an 
undisputed  fact  that  to  the  amateur  photography  owes  fully 
as  much  for  progress  and  inventive  skill  as  to  the  professional 
photographer. 

Photography  in  England  is  indebted,  during  many  years 
past,  for  improvements  and  discoveries  almost  wholly  to  the 
amateur’s  researches  and  experiments. 

In  trying  different  formulas,  many  of  which  are  written  by 
the  French  standard  of  weights  and  measures,  the  following 
table  will  save  a  considerable  amount  of  figuring,  bother,  and 
failure. 

*  French  Fluid  Measures . — The  cubic  centimeter, 
usually  represented  by  “c.c.,”  is  the  unit  of  the  French 
measurement  for  liquids.  It  contains  nearly  seventeen  minims 
of  water;  in  reality  it  contains  16.896  minims.  The  weight 
of  this  quantity  of  water  is  one  gramme.  Hence  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  cubic  centimeter  and  the  gramme  bear  to  each 
other  the  same  relation  as  our  drams  for  solids  and  the  drams 
for  fluids,  or  as  the  minim  and  the  grain.  The  following 
table  will  prove  to  be  sufficiently  accurate  for  photographic 
purposes : 


1 

cubic  centimeter 

= 

17  minims  (as  near  as  possible). 

2  cubic  centimeters 

= 

34 

3 

_ 

51 

4 

68 

or  1  dram  8  minims. 

5 

_ 

85 

“  1  “  25 

6 

_ 

102 

“  1  “  42 

7 

_ 

119 

“  1  “  59 

8 

__ 

136 

“  2  drams  16  “ 

9 

— = 

153 

“  2  “  33 

10 

= 

170 

“  2  “  50 

20 

— 

340 

“  5  “  40 

30 

= 

510 

“  1  ounce  0  dram  30  minims 

40 

— 

680 

“1  “  3  drams  20  “ 

50 

— 

850 

“  1  “  6  “  10 

60 

= 

1020 

t  ‘  2  ounces  1  “  0  “ 

70 

= 

1190 

“  2  “  3  “  50 

80 

= 

1360 

"  2  “  6  “  40 

90 

= 

1530 

“  3  “  1  “  30 

100 

= 

1700 

“  3  “  4  “  20 

68 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


The  Conversion  of  French  into  English  Weight . 

— Although  a  gramme  is  equal  to  15.4346  grains,  the  deci¬ 
mal  is  one  which  can  never  he  used  by  photographers ;  hence, 
in  the  following  table  it  is  assumed  to  he  15 1  grains, 
which  is  the  nearest  approach  that  can  be  made  to  practical 
accuracy : 


1 

gramme 

= 

15f 

grains. 

2 

grammes 

= 

30f 

3 

__ 

46! 

4 

_ 

61| 

“  or 

1  drachm 

i! 

grain. 

5 

77 

1 

“ 

17 

grains. 

6 

92f 

1 

“ 

32f 

7 

_ 

107! 

1 

‘  ‘ 

47! 

8 

__ 

123! 

2 

drachms 

i  3! 

9 

= 

138| 

2 

“ 

18! 

10 

_ 

154 

2 

“ 

34 

11 

— 

169f 

2 

“ 

49| 

12 

= 

184f 

3 

<  < 

4! 

13 

= 

200! 

3 

“ 

20! 

14 

— 

215! 

3 

“ 

35! 

15 

= 

231 

3 

“ 

51 

16 

= 

246f 

4 

“ 

6f 

17 

= 

261| 

4 

“ 

21! 

18 

= 

277! 

4 

“ 

37! 

19 

= 

292! 

4 

“ 

52| 

20 

— 

308 

5 

“ 

8 

30 

_ 

462 

7 

“ 

42 

40 

— 

616 

10 

“ 

16 

50 

=c 

770 

12 

“ 

50 

60 

_ 

924 

15 

<  < 

24 

70 

— 

1078 

17 

“ 

58 

80 

= 

1232 

20 

“ 

32 

90 

— 

1386 

23 

“ 

6 

100 

== 

1540 

“  “ 

25 

“ 

40 

Measuring  with  a  Glass  Graduate . — On  the 
graduated  glass  you  will  find  lines  and  figures,  as  shown  by  the 
diagram  on  next  page.  The  figures  1,  2,  3  and  4  on  the  left 
hand  of  the  centre  line  represent  ounces,  and  so  also  does  the 
mark  §  designate  the  same.  The  short  lines  between  the 
ounce  lines,  1,  2,  3,  4,  represent  half  ounces.  On  the  lower 
right  hand  side  of  the  centre  line  you  will  find  the  figures 
2,  4,  6,  8.  These  represent  drams;  and  the  mark  or  char¬ 
acter  3  is  used  to  denote  drams.  Example :  To  measure  two 
ounces  and  six  drams,  fill  the  graduate  to  the  line  with  figure 
2  at  left  hand  side,  pour  this  out  into  the  vessel  designed  for 
the  solution,  then  fill  the  graduate  to  the  line  with  figure  6  on 


USEFUL  INFORMATION. 


69 


the  right  hand  side ;  this  is  six  drams.  Add  this  to  the  two 
ounces  just  measured,  which  gives  you  two  ounces  and  six 
drams. 


1 

A 

3 

Tt 

Q 

O 

o 

& 

1 

g 

1  j 

- 6 

2 

The  Scovill  Negative  Washing  Boxes  are  an  aid  and  con¬ 
venience  in  removing  all  traces  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  from 
a  negative. 


Developers  and  chemicals  in  solution  may  he  transported 
safely  in  corrugated  protecting  cases.  These  are  supplied  with 


70 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


cut  glass  bottles,  and  graduated  tumbler  to  measure  liquids. 
Though  made  of  thin  metal,  the  corrugation  makes  them  so 
strong  as  to  resist  crushing.  Being  nickeled  and  finely  finished, 


the  external  appearance  of  these  cases  is  decidedly  tasteful; 
indeed,  one  would  be  more  inclined  to  place  them  in  a  satchel 
than  in  a  packing  case.  Whether  carried  about  in  a  horizontal 
or  vertical  position,  the  locking  ring  affords  perfect  protection 
for  the  liquids  contained  in  the  bottle. 


CHAPTER  XY. 


ORTHOCHROMATIC  METHODS. 

It  has  ever  been  claimed  for  photographic  reproductions  to 
he  truthful  mirrors  of  the  original,  whether  they  be  portraits, 
landscapes  or  copies  from  an  inanimate  object ;  and  justly  so 
as  long  as  we  consider  form  only.  In  one  respect,  however, 
photographic  pictures  are  almost  entirely  devoid  of  veracity ; 
that  is,  in  the  reproduction  of  color.  Scarlet  and  yellow, 
which  appear  bright  to  the  eye,  are  represented  in  a  dark, 
sombre  tone,  and  blue  or  violet,  no  matter  how  dark  in  the 
original,  are,  in  the  photograph,  quite  light,  at  times  even  white. 

Light,  divided  into  its  spectrum  rays,  and  then  projected 
upon  a  sensitive  photographic  film,  will  not  act  according  to 
its  color  brightness,  or  as  the  eye  is  impressed,  but  in  propor¬ 
tion  to  a  certain  force  or  power  called  actinism,  The  chief 
action  will  take  place  in  the  spectrum  region  from  violet  to 
blue,  and  those  parts  containing  the  bright  colors,  green,  yel¬ 
low,  orange  and  red,  will  scarcely  be  acted  upon,  showing  that 
the  visible  effect  is  not  at  all  a  representation  of  the  chemical 
or  actinic  force.  The  term  photography  is,  therefore,  not  ab¬ 
solutely  correct,  for  light  in  its  entirety  does  not  write  or  draw, 
but  a  portion  of  it  only,  the  chemically  active  or  actinic  rays. 

To  overcome  this  seemingly  insufficient  action  of  light, 
methods  have  been  devised  to  absorb  certain  rays,  and  make 
them  active.  Among  other  means  proposed  to  accomplish  this, 
transparent  colored  glass  screens  were  found  to  give  better  re¬ 
sults.  These  screens  have  been  retained  to  a  great  extent,  not  as 
the  sole  factor,  but  in  combination  with  appropriately  colored 
films. 

With  these  methods,  called  orthochromatic,  because  colors 
were  more  correctly  reproduced,  as  to  their  brightness  or  tone 
value,  a  powerful  assistance  was  given,  when  photographing 
highly-colored  objects,  like  paintings  in  oil  or  aquarell  colors, 
chromo-lithographs,  fabrics,  or  embroideries.  Equally  so  for 
flowers  of  light  yellow  or  orange,  the  dark  purple  of  the  hya- 


72 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


cinth,  the  crimson  tulip  or  the  many-colored  dahlia,  with  foli¬ 
age  of  various  green  tone.  For  interiors  with  variegated 
draperies,  landscapes  clad  in  autumnal  foliage,  or  sunsets  with 
heavily  illuminated  clouds,  and  even  for  portraits  and  theatrical 
groups,  costumed  in  brilliant  garments,  effects  are  possible, 
which  can  never  be  reached  with  a  plain  iodide  or  bromide  of 
silver  plate  of  any  description. 

The  preparation  of  orthochromatic  plates  has  been  very 
much  simplified,  since  the  mode  of  color  sensitizing  the 
body  of  the  bromide  of  silver  gelatine  emulsion  has  been 
abandoned  and  has  been  substituted  by  staining  with  color 
a  ready-coated  plate.  A  piece  of  work  easily  done  within  a 
few  minutes. 

A  great  facility  is  thus  given  to  the  operator,  who  when 
called  upon  occasionally  only,  to  make  pictures  with  orthochro¬ 
matic  effects,  can  always  be  prepared  to  render  color  sensitive 
as  many  or  rather  as  few  plates  as  the  present  demands, 
and  without  necessitating  the  purchasing  of  a  whole  package 
or  a  dozen  of  orthochromatic  plates  colored  in  the  emulsion. 
Several  highly  important  points  must  be  considered  when  pre¬ 
paring  these  plates,  mainly  in  the  selecting  of  the  proper  color 
stuff,  the  concentration  of  its  solution,  and  the  manner  of  ap¬ 
plying  it  to  the  plate. 

Extensive  labors  in  spectroscopic  researches  and  photo¬ 
graphic  technics  have  resulted  in  giving  the  practitioner  a  few 
reliable  colors,  selecting  them  from  hundreds  experimented 
with.  Among  them  are  many  belonging  to  the  eosine  group,  and 
a  few  chinolines.  The  highest  sensitiveness  for  red  must  be 
ascribed  to  chinoline  blue  or  cyanine ;  but  it  is  evident  that  for 
generally  harmonious  effect  in  one  many  colored  object,  no 
pigment  gives  more  correct  reproductions  than  the  erythrosine. 
With  it  we  copy  green,  yellow  and  orange  perfectly  correct, 
and  various  shades  of  red  nearly  so.  Blue  and  violet,  the  most 
active  colors  upon  photographic  surfaces,  needs,  however,  to 
be  depressed,  and  for  that  reason  a  yellow  glass  screen  is  inter¬ 
posed  between  lens  and  film.  For  objects  without  predomin¬ 
ance  of  these  colors,  or  when  their  forcible  action  will  not  in¬ 
terfere  with  the  harmony  of  the  copied  pictures,  the  screen  may 
be  dispensed  with.  In  artificial  light,  yellow  globes  or  shades 


ORTHOCHROMATIC  METHODS. 


73 


may  be  substituted,  in  fact,  the  screen  is  hardly  needed  in  light 
so  rich  in  yellow  rays  like  gas  or  petroleum. 

It  will  be  natural  to  ask,  in  what  light  must  these  plates,  sen¬ 
sitive  to  yellow,  orange  and  red  be  developed.  Erythrosine 
plates,  but  moderately  sensitive  to  red,  may  be  well  developed 
in  the  shadow  of  a  much  subdued  light  of  the  W.  I.  A.  petite 
lantern.  After  the  developing  has  proceeded  for  about  two 
minutes,  the  coloring  matter  has  been  partly  washed  away  and 
a  much  brighter  light  is  admissible,  yellow  or  orange,  or  either 
of  them  combined,  is  absolutely  dangerous,  and  fog  will  in¬ 
evitably  result  from  them.  Lamp  or  lantern,  covered  with 
several,  say,  three  thicknesses  of  chocolate-brown  tissue  paper, 
gives  probably  the  most  secure  light,  and  even  the  very  red 
sensitive  cyanine  plate  may  be  admitted  to  it. 

For  plates  colored  in  the  emulsion,  either  the  ferrous-oxalate 
or  the  alkaline  developer  may  be  employed.  For  bathed  plates, 
on  account  of  the  ammonia  used  in  preliminary  and  coloring 
bath  (see  formula),  the  iron  developer  is  greatly  objected  to, 
but  pyrogallic  acid,  in  combination  with  any  alkali,  ammonia, 
soda  or  potash,  does  equally  well. 

Orthochromatic  plates  do  not  allow  of  much  doctoring.  In 
case  of  over-exposures  restraining  will  be  found  quite  a  difficult 
operation.  In  no  case  should  another  restrainer  than  bromide 
of  potassium  be  used. 

In  regard  to  time  of  exposure,  the  proportions  are  with  ery¬ 
throsine  plates  and  ordinary  emulsion  about  3:1  or  6:1,  in 
objects  where  a  variety  of  colors  is  found  equally  distributed 
throughout  the  object.  If  much  red  in  various  brightness  or 
darkness  predominates,  the  time  must  be  increased  accordingly, 
sometimes  even  to  as  much  as  1 2  and  1 8  times. 

The  Scovill  Manufacturing  Company  with  its  noted  de¬ 
sire  to  place  before  its  patrons  the  newest  accomplishment  in 
photography  in  concise  and  convenient  form,  have  prepared, 
and  sell,  an  erythrosine  compound  under  the  name  of  Flan- 
dreau’s  S.  F.  C.  orthochromatic  solutions,  which  possess  all 
the  qualities  necessary  to  give  good  general  color-sensitiveness 
to  an  ordinary  emulsion  plate.  The  erythrosine  solution  is  ac¬ 
companied  by  a  yellow,  the  xanthine  collodion,  with  which  the 
color  screen,  necessary  for  ordinary  work,  is  prepared. 


74 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


With  the  following  formula,  orthochromatic  plates  can  he 
prepared  in  a  few  minutes,  requiring  no  longer  time  than  to 
coat  or  sensitize  a  collodion  plate ;  hence  Flandreau’s  solutions 
offer  immense  facilities  to  amateur  and  professional  photo¬ 
graphers. 

Preliminary  Bath. 


Aqua  ammonia . ' . . .  .1  dram 

Water . 7  ounces. 

Color  Bath. 

No.  1  (erythrosine) .  ...  .1^  drams 

Aqua  ammonia . 2 

Water  (distilled) . 5£  ounces. 


Immerse  a  plate  of  medium  sensitiveness  (Carbut  “  B  ”)  in  the 
preliminary  bath,  and  allow  it  to  remain  therein  for  3  minutes. 
After  removal  drain  well,  and  without  washing,  plunge  the 
plate  in  the  coloring  bath,  rocking  it  gently  to  secure  uniform 
contact  wTith  the  solution.  The  plate  should  not  remain  in  the 
color  bath  longer  than  75  seconds,  as  a  long  continued  exposure 
to  the  color  solution  will  depress  the  general  sensitiveness, 
without  increasing  that  for  colors.  If  a  large  number  of  plates 
are  prepared  with  the  same  solution,  it  is  advisable  to  add,  after 
the  eighth  or  tenth  plate,  about  10  or  20  drops  of  ammonia 
The  colored  plates  must  be  well  drained,  reared  upon  blotting 
paper  and  dried  in  the  ordinary  drying  closet. 

Colored  plates  may  be  exposed  while  still  wet,  and  the  gen¬ 
eral  sensitiveness  is  somewhat  decreased  thereby.  If,  however, 
the  object  to  be  photographed  requires  a  very  long  exposure  it 
is  better  to  use  a  dried  plate.  These  plates  may  be  developed 
with  any  energetic  developer,  the  S.  P.  C.  pyro  and  potash 
developer  being  preferable. 

Being  extremely  sensitive  to  red,  orange  and  yellow,  all  pos¬ 
sible  precaution  must  be  taken  when  preparing,  handling  and 
developing  these  plates.  The  operations  must  be  carried  on  in 
the  shade  of  a  dark  ruby  lamp,  or  a  light  subdued  by  several 
thicknesses  of  dark  brown  tissue  paper. 

With  the  interposition  of  the  yellow  screen  (absolutely  neces¬ 
sary  for  the  copying  of  objects  in  which  blue  and  violet  pre¬ 
dominates),  the  time  of  exposure  may  be  increased  from  3  to  6 
times  that  of  an  ordinary  plate. 


ORTHOCHROMATIC  METHODS. 


75 


For  Portraiture,  a  more  sensitive  plate  (Carbutt  Special) 
may  be  employed,  but  the  amount  of  ammonia  in  both  baths 
must  be  reduced  50  per  cent.  Unless  there  is  an  abundance  of 
blue  or  violet  drapery,  the  yellow  screen  may  be  dispensed  with 
in  making  portraits. 

The  properties  of  erythrosine  permit  the  photographing  by 
artificial  lights,  which  are  rich  in  yellow  or  red  rays,  like  the 
incandescent  electric,  gas,  or  petroleum.  The  time  of  exposure 
is  then,  all  other  conditions  being  the  same,  but  a  little  longer 
than  with  ordinary  plates  in  daylight.  Fixing,  washing,  and 
intensifying  are  done  in  the  ordinary  manner. 

Erythrosine  being  decomposed  by  light,  its  solution  must  be 
kept  in  the  dark. 

To  depress  the  violent  action  of  violet  and  blue,  when  pre¬ 
dominant,  it  is  indispensable  to  interpose  yellow  screens  be¬ 
tween  objective  and  sensitive  plate.  To  prepare  them,  a  thin, 
white,  plane  parallel  glass  is  coated  with  the  xanthine  collodion 
and  dried.  For  conveniency,  it  had  best  be  surrounded  by  a 
slight  frame,  and  then  suspended  immediately  behind  the  pos¬ 
terior  lens  of  the  objective,  in  the  bellows. 

The  yellow  color  of  the  preparation  fades  by  long  exposure 
to  light ;  screens  must  therefore  be  kept  in  the  dark,  or  the 
coating  be  frequently  renewed. 


CHAPTER  XYI. 


PAPER  NEGATIVES. 

It  is  needless  to  dwell  upon  the  many  advantages  paper 
negatives  possess  over  glass,  for  they  will  be  apparent  to  any 
one  accustomed  to  the  old  process.  In  consequence  of  the  ex¬ 
treme  lightness  of  the  paper,  the  pleasure  of  taking  pictures 
is  increased  ten  fold,  and  the  inducements  offered  to  the 
amateur  to  take  larger  photographs  enhanced. 

The  danger  of  breakage  is  avoided,  thereby  making  rough 
transportation  perfectly  safe. 

The  compact  way  in  which  the  negatives  can  be  packed 
should  not  be  overlooked  ;  they  can  be  kept  in  books,  thereby 
affording  as  easy  a  means  of  reference  as  if  it  were  in  a  pho¬ 
tographic  album — a  point  of  much  value  in  any  large  concern. 
They  can  be  used  in  photographic  ink  printing  processed 
without  the  need  of  transfer,  so  common  with  glass  plates. 

The  advantage  of  the  lightness  of  the  paper  over  the  weight 
of  glass  is  especially  noticeable  in  the  larger  sizes,  as,  for  in¬ 
stance,  an  entire  outfit  taking  twenty -four  8x10  pictures,  which 
includes  a  camera,  lens,  tripod,  carrying  case  and  roll  holder, 
weighs  less  than  twenty  pounds ;  whereas  twenty-four  8x10 
glass  plates  weigh  of  themselves  over  sixteen  pounds,  while 
the  wood  plate  holders  weigh  fully  as  much  again  ;  hence,  as 
the  roll  holder  loaded  for  this  size  weighs  only  about  three 
and  a  half  pounds,  there  is  a  saving  in  weight  on  the  outfit  of 
about  twenty-eight  and  a  half  pounds.  A  spool  of  paper  for 
taking  twenty-four  8x10  negatives  weighs  only  twelve  ounces  ; 
hence  each  additional  twenty-four  picture  paper  roll  adds  to 
outfit  less  than  one  pound,  against  over  sixteen  pounds  of  glass. 

In  other  words,  the  amateur  can  carry  an  8x10  outfit  with 
less  effort  than  was  formerly  expended  on  a  5x8  glass  equipped 
apparatus,  and  for  each  additional  twenty-four  negatives 
required  the  difference  is  greatly  increased. 


PAPER  NEGATIVES. 


77 


The  retouching  of  paper  negatives  is  more  easily  done  than  on 
glass,  for  the  back  of  the  negative  is  worked  upon  by  a  pencil ;  any 
mistake  can  be  readily  erased.  With  crayon  stubs  very  pretty 
cloud  effects  can  be  worked  into  the  sky  of  landscape  negatives. 

The  full  size  of  the  paper  negative  is  available  for  printing, 
and  therefore  a  somewhat  smaller  film  than  the  glass  negative 
yields  the  same  equivalent  in  size  of  the  finished  photograph. 

It  is  obvious  that  the  most  compact  and  convenient  way  of 
using  this  paper  is  by  means  of  the  roll  holder  and  the  spools, 
for  on  account  of  their  lightness  they  can  be  readily  sent  in  the 
mails,  at  a  small  cost,  to  various  parts  of  the  country. 

The  Apparatus . — For  the  purpose  of  making  a  large 
quantity  of  the  sensitive  paper  available,  in  a  small  space, 


when  used  in  the  camera,  a  holder,  termed  a  u  roll  holder,” 
has  been  devised.  Fig.  1  illustrates  the  inside  mechanism  of 
the  holder  when  it  is  thrown  up  or  back,  and  when  ready  for 
use  the  whole  is  enclosed  in  a  handsomely  finished  mahogany 
outside  case,  provided  on  its  front  side  with  a  suitable  slide,  as 
plainly  seen  in  Fig.  6. 

Referring  to  Fig.  1,  it  will  be  noticed  that  the  essential 
working  parts  of  the  holder  consist  of  a  supply  spool  holding 
the  sensitive  paper,  a  winding-up  reel,  a  wood  exposing  plat¬ 
form  of  peculiar  construction,  two  guide  rolls,  and  two  spring 
pressure  tension  rolls,  which  bear  upon  the  supply  spool  and 


78 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


winding  reel ;  all  being  confined  and  held  between  two  light 
metal  side  frames  braced  and  connected  together  at  their  ends 
by  suitable  tie  rods.  The  back  of  the  mahogany  case  is  de¬ 
tachable,  and  is  held  in  place  by  flat  spring  metal  clamps,  fit¬ 
ting  over  corresponding  pins  on  the  side  of  the  case.  (See 
Figs.  1  and  6.)  The  edge  of  the  case  fits  in  an  angular  groove 
cut  in  the  inside  surface  of  the  back  near  its  edge,  for  the  purpose 
of  making  a  light-tight  joint,  when  the  case  is  pressed  home. 

The  light  metal  frame  supporting  the  working  parts  is  held 
to  the  removable  back  by  four  spring  bolts,  one  pair  at  each  end, 
which  may  be  plainly  seen  on  the  right  end  in  Fig.  2.  By  com¬ 
pressing  the  two  bolts  simultaneously  inward  with  the  thumb 
and  index  finger,  one  end  of  the  frame  is  released  and  easily 


elevated  or  thrown  back,  the  opposite  set  of  bolts  forming  a 
pivot  or  hinge.  In  this  position  the  back  forms  a  base  to  sup¬ 
port  the  frame  when  placed  upright.  When  the  frame  is 
dropped  down,  the  spring  bolts  are  again  drawn  inward,  and 
in  shooting  back  lock  the  frame  to  the  back.  Thus  either  end 
of  the  frame  may  be  readily  elevated,  or  it  may  be  entirely  re¬ 
moved  from  the  back,  permitting  the  operator  to  obtain  easy 
access  to  the  rollers  in  the  dark  room,  when  attaching  and  de¬ 
taching  the  sensitive  paper. 

Figs.  2  and  3  show  the  metal  frame  down  on  the  back  in  its 
normal  position.  At  the  extreme  end  of  the  metal  frame,  ad¬ 
jacent  to  the  exposing  platform,  and  having  their  peripheries 


PAPER  NEGATIVES. 


79 


parallel  witli  the  surface  of  the  platform,  are  two  guide^rolls, 
of  such  a  diameter  that  their  circumference  measures^one- 
quarter  of  the  length  of  the  exposing  platform  or  of  the  length 
of  the  picture,  whatever  size  the  holder  is  intended  to  make  ; 
one  guide  roll,  termed  also  a  measuring  roll,  will  be  seen  at 
the  extreme  upper  end  in  Figs.  1  and  4 ;  and  at  the  right  hand 
end  also  in  Fig.  2. 

Projecting  at  each  end,  slightly  above  the  surface  of  this 
guide  roll,  are  two  metal  points,  which  puncture  the  mar¬ 
gin  of  the  paper  at  each  revolution,  as  it  passes  from  the 
supply  spool  over  the  guide  rolls  and  the  exposing  plat¬ 
form  to  the  reel  at  the  opposite  end ;  a  pin  projecting 


out  from  one  end  of  the  guide  roll  pushes  down  a  small 
flat  spring  secured  to  the  under  side  of  the  exposing  plat¬ 
form,  which,  flying  up  against  the  under  side  of  the  latter,  as  it 
is  suddenly  released,  produces  a  loud  click  or  alarm.  In  ad¬ 
dition  to  the  sound  device,  a  spur  wheel  is  arranged  on  the 
shaft  of  the  guide  roll  at  one  end,  which  can  be  seen  in  Figs. 
1  and  2,  so  geared  that  four  revolutions  of  the  guide  roll  will 
cause  a  second  spur  wheel  to  make  one  revolution  of  an  indi¬ 
cator  seen  upon  the  outside  of  the  case,  at  its  right  hand  end, 
Fig.  3,  and  upper  end  Fig.  6. 

The  necessity  of  providing  some  accurate  yet  simple  means 
of  measuring  the  paper  as  it  passes  from  the  supply  spool  to 
the  reel  was  apparent  to  the  inventors,  and  the  simple  devices, 
just  described,  which  have  been  adopted,  deserve  a  word  of 
praise.  If  the  measuring  device  had  been  attached  to  either 


80 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


the  supply  spool  or  reel,  to  be  guided  by  their  respective  revo¬ 
lutions,  it  would  have  been  inaccurate ;  for  as  the  paper  is 
taken  off  the  supply  spool  it  revolves  more  rapidly,  while  with 
the  reel  the  diameter  is  rapidly  increased  in  proportion  as  the 
paper  is  wound  upon  it,  and  the  amount  thus  taken  up  must 
constantly  vary.  Hence  it  is  the  constant  diameter  of  the 
guide  rolls,  and  the  revolving  of  the  same  by  the  passing 
paper,  which  furnish  an  accurate  means  of  measurement. 

Passing  now  from  the  guide  rolls,  we  come  to  the  supply 
spool  and  reel,  and  the  mechanism  for  rotating  and  holding 
them.  Both  are  supported  by  centres  arranged  in  the  metal 
frame,  just  under  and  behind  the  extreme  edge  of  the  expos¬ 


ing  platform,  their  respective  positions  being  seen  in  Figs.  1, 
4,  and  5. 

In  Fig.  1,  the  supply  spool  will  be  noticed  at  the  upper  end. 
Fig.  4  shows  a  more  detailed  view  of  its  particular  construc¬ 
tion,  and  the  manner  of  its  insertion  into  the  roll  holder.  One 
end  of  the  spool  has  a  rectangular  recess  or  saw  cut,  which  cor¬ 
responds  to  the  rectangular-shaped  chuck  projection  on  the 
metal  center.  The  other  end  has  a  hole  m  which  the  adjust¬ 
able  screw  center,  seen  upon  the  right  of  Fig.  4,  is  inserted. 
The  chuck  center  has  a  large  milled  head  on  its  outer  end,  out¬ 
side  of  the  frame,  as  shown  on  the  upper  left  hand  end  in 
Fig.  1,  and  a  gravity  pawl  presses  upon  the  peiiphery  of  the 
head,  creating  a  small  friction  to  its  movement,  acting  also  as 
a  tension  on  the  paper. 


PAPER  NEGATIVES 


81 


The  sensitive  paper  is  sent  out  already  rolled  upon  the  spools 
in  packages,  as  shown  in  Fig.  11,  and  it  is  only  necessary  to 
insert  the  prepared  spool  in  the  holder  to  obtain  a  fresh 
supply  ;  usually  enough  paper  is  wound  upon  a  spool  for 
twenty-four  exposures ;  in  small  sizes  forty-eight  exposures 
are  furnished. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  the  mode  of  securing  the  free  end  of  the 
paper  to  the  reel.  One  portion  of  the  circumference  of  the 
reel  is  flattened  in  the  direction  of  its  length,  over  which  lies 
a  metal  clamp  pivoted  upon  the  ends  of  the  reel.  The  clamp 
is  easily  raised  or  lowered  by  a  lateral  movement,  from  the  flat¬ 
tened  surface  of  the  reel.  In  Fig.  5  the  clamp  has  been  raised 


by  the  right  hand,  while  the  free  end  of  the  paper  is  drawn 
through  with  the  left,  and  afterward  straightened  with  both, 
when  the  clamp  is  pressed  down,  thus  securely  fastening  the 
paper  to  the  reel ;  rotating  the  latter  at  once  winds  up  the 
paper.  The  reel  is  held  between  a  chuck  center  and  a  screw 
center  similar  to  those  holding  the  supply  spool,  with  the  ex¬ 
ception  that  the  chuck  center  has  a  recess  instead  of  a  projec¬ 
tion,  which  peculiar  construction  prevents  any  mistake  of  the 
spool  and  reel  being  attached  in  the  wrong  place  in  the  dark 
room.  A  small  spring  pawl  rests  on  the  periphery  of  the  milled 
head  of  the  reel  chuck,  giving  quite  sufficient  friction  thereto 
to  prevent  the  reel  from  unwinding.  In  the  center  of  the 


82 


IiOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


milled  head  of  the  reel  chuck  center  is  a  threaded  hole  for  re¬ 
ceiving  the  screw  threaded  operating  key.  The  key  when 
screwed  into  the  milled  head  operates  very  similarly  to  the  per¬ 
manent  keys  attached  to  small  clocks.  Rotating  it  to  the  right 
revolves  the  reel ;  rotating  it  to  the  left  unscrews  it  from  the 
reel.  Around  the  threaded  hole  is  an  annular  groove,  in  which 
the  inner  edge  of  the  loose  tubular  key  guide  drops  when  the 
case  covers  the  frame.  The  threaded  hole  and  annular  groove 
may  be  seen  in  the  lower  milled  head,  Fig.  1,  and  the  loose 
tubular  guide  at  the  left-hand  end  of  the  case  in  Fig.  3,  and 
lower  end,  Fig.  6 ;  the  latter  also  shows  the  key  inserted.  The 
object  of  this  construction  is  to  make  a  light-tight  joint  around 
the  key  aperture.  Fig.  12  shows  a  cross  section  of  the  case  at 
the  slide  side ;  two  brass  flat  springs  running  lengthwise  along 
the  inner  edge  of  the  slide  aperture  bear  upon  the  margin  of 
the  paper  as  it  travels  over  the  exposing  platform,  preventing 
it  from  buckling  or  curling  up. 

How  to  Use  it. — Having  now  described  the  various  parts 
of  the  apparatus,  I  will  first  explain  the  operation  of  insert¬ 
ing  and  attaching  a  fresh  spool  of  sensitive  paper.  By  throw¬ 
ing  back  the  spring  clamps  and  drawing  out  the  indicator  knob 
and  loose  key  tube,  the  outside  case  with  its  slide  is  easily 
raised  from  the  back,  exposing  to  view  the  frame  and  rolls,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Fig.  3  shows  the  case  partly  raised. 

Firmly  holding  the  exposing  platform  with  the  left  hand, 
and  with  the  thumb  and  middle  finger  of  the  right  compressing 
inward  the  two  spring  bolts  on  the  right-hand  end  of  the  back, 
the  frame  is  elevated,  as  shown  in  Fig.  1. 

Now,  lifting  the  spring  pressure  roll  or  brake,  and  holding 
it  between  the  index  and  second  finger  of  the  left  hand,  while 
the  supply  spool  is  also  held  between  the  index  finger  and 
thumb,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4,  the  depression  or  saw  cut  in  the 
end  of  the  spool  is  pushed  upon  the  rectangular  projection  on 
the  center  chuck.  With  the  right  hand  the  threaded  thumb 
screw  is  passed  into  the  hole  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  spool, 
holding  the  latter  firmly  in  place.  The  inclosing  band,  which 
binds  the  paper  on  the  spool,  is  next  torn  off,  the  pressure  roll 
released,  so  that  it  presses  firmly  against  the  spool,  and  the  free 
end  of  the  paper  drawn  under  and  over  the  guide  measuring 


PAPER  NEGATIVES. 


83 


roll  across  the  exposing  platform,  over  the  second  guide  roll, 
down  to  the  reel,  as  shown  in  Fig.  5 — the  frame  in  the  mean 
time  having  been  reversed  on  the  back,  that  is,  the  reel  end 
elevated  instead  of  the  spool  end. 

The  paper  is  fastened  to  the  reel  by  the  flat  pivoted  clamp 
as  previously  explained;  and 
after  seeing  that  it  occupies  a 
perfectly  central  position 
across  the  guide  rolls,  the 
slack  is  taken  up  by  means 
of  the  tension  screw  milled 
head  on  one  end  of  the  reel. 

The  spring  pawl  is  then  turned 
down  or  replaced,  also  the 
gravity  pawl  on  the  spool  hol¬ 
der  milled  head,  and  the  frame 
secured  in  position  on  the 
back  by  the  four  spring  bolts. 

The  whole  is  then  covered  by 
and  fastened  to  the  outside 
case.  The  paper  should  now  lie 
perfectly  smooth  and  flat  on  the  face  of  the  exposing  platform. 

The  slide  on  the  front  of  the  case  .is  next  withdrawn  (see  it 
partly  withdrawn  in  Fig.  6),  and  with  a  lead  pencil  a  line  is 
drawn  across  the  paper  at  each  end  of  the  slide  opening,  for  the 
purpose  of  determining  where  the  first  exposure  commences. 
On  replacing  the  slide,  the  holder  is  removed  from  the  dark 
room  and  attached  to  the  camera,  to  which  it  has  been  previ¬ 
ously  fitted,  and  so  arranged  that  the  plane  of  the  exposing 
platform  shall  occupy  exactly  that  of  the  ground  glass. 

I  will  now  suppose  that  the  object  has  been  properly 
focused,  the  ground  glass  removed,  and  the  holder  attached  to 
the  back  of  the  camera,  the  same  as  an  ordinary  plate  holder, 
by  means  of  suitable  pins  and  catches.  The  slide  is  withdrawn, 
and  the  exposure  made  by  uncapping  and  capping  the  lens  in 
the  usual  manner,  and  the  slide  replaced.  The  operating  key 
is  screwed  home  and  the  indicator  tube  pressed  into  place, 
on  to  the  square  head  of  the  shaft  of  the  indicator  spur  wheel, 
and  fastened  by  the  bayonet  catch. 


84 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTUR 


It  is  now  desired  to  bring  a  fresh  surface  upon  the  exposing 
table  for  a  new  exposure ;  with  the  right  hand  the  operator 
rotates  the  key  similar  to  the  winding  of  a  clock  (see  Fig.  7), 
which  rotates  the  reel  and  carries  the  paper  over  the  face  of 
the  exposing  platform ;  soon  a  click  is  heard,  and  the  indicator 
has  made  one-quarter  of  a  revolution ;  then  a  second,  third, 
and  fourth  click,  when  it  will  be  found  that  the  indicator  has 


made  one  complete  revolution,  informing  the  operator  both 
by  sound  and  sight  that  a  fresh  sensitive  surface  has  been 
brought  into  place.  With  each  click  the  metal  points  on  the 
surface  of  the  measuring  guide  roll  puncture  upward  the  paper 
at  each  margin,  making  four  raised  dots  on  each  edge  for  each 
exposure. 


PAPER  NEGATIVES. 


85 


Twelve  exposures  out  of  the  twenty-four  having  been  made, 
it  is  desired  that  they  be  separated  and  removed  from  the  sup¬ 
ply  spool  for  the  purpose  of  development ;  taking  the  holder 
to  the  dark  room  and  removing  the  outer  case,  we  sever  the 
exposed  portion  of  paper  on  the  reel  and  on  the  exposing  plat¬ 
form  by  simply  drawing  the  point  of  a  knife  across  the  length 
of  the  measuring  guide  roll  (see  Fig.  2).  By  counting  four 
dots  from  the  end,  we  come  to  the  end  of  one  exposure.  The 
paper  is  next  drawn  by  the  hand  to  the  right  until  the  fourth 
pair  of  dots  are  brought  over  the  measuring  roll,  when  the 
sheet  is  separated  as  before.  Instead  of  cutting  off  the  exposed 
sheets  in  this  manner,  they  may  be  severed  by  shears.  The 
reel  containing  the  exposed  paper  may  be  bodily  removed  from 
the  frame  in  the  same  manner  as  the  supply  spool,  and  another 
inserted,  and  the  unexposed  paper  attached  to  it,  as  in  Fig.  5, 
when  new  exposures  may  be  wound  upon  it  as  before. 

The  spring  pressure  rollers  bearing  upon  the  back  of  the 
paper  when  on  the  spool  or  reel  prevents  the  uncoiling  of  the 
paper  on  the  same,  and  thus  obviates  the  danger  of  abrasion  by 
the  loosening  and  tightening  of  the  paper  on  itself. 

In  holders  of  small  size,  three  clicks  and  punctures  are  made 
instead  of  four  for  one  exposure ;  in  large  sizes  as  many  as  five 
or  six.  All  the  parts  of  the  holder  are  made  interchangeable, 
on  the  plan  of  the  sewing  machine  and  all  American  Optical 
Co.  apparatus,  thereby  making  the  repair  of  any  damages  a 
verv  simple  matter. 

Film  Carriers  for  Use  ivith  Scovill  Dry  Flate 
Holder s.^-In  cases  where  it  is  inconvenient  to  use  a  “roll 
holder,”  a  special  carrier  has  been  devised  (see  Fig.  8)  for  sup¬ 
porting  single  sheets  of  the  paper  in  the  ordinary  double 
holder  used  for  glass  plates.  The  carrier  consists  simply  of  a 
thin  wood  support  or  plate  built  up  of  narrow  strips  of  wood 
to  prevent  warping,  constructed  like  the  exposing  platform  in 
the  u  roll  holder,”  and  has  a  thin  metal  mat  or  frame,  which  is 
bent  up  around  the  edges,  and  clasps  the  plate  when  it  is 
pressed  into  it.  In  Fig.  8  the  wood  carrier  is  held  in  the  hand, 
while  the  metal  mat  lies  flat ;  above  it  may  be  seen  the  sheet 
of  paper,  one  end  being  partly  curled  up. 

In  order  to  secure  the  paper  to  the  carrier,  the  frame  is  laid 


86 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PICTURES. 


down  upon  a  clean  sheet  of  paper  and  the  sheet  of  negative 
paper  laid,  face  down,  into  it ;  the  wood  plate  is  then  pressed 
down  on  top  of  it,  and  the  ends  of  the  frame,  springing  over 
the  rounded  edges  of  the  wood  carrier,  hold  the  paper  firmly 
and  smoothly  against  the  carrier.  As  the  thickness  of  the  car¬ 
rier  and  mat  combined  does  not  exceed  that  of  the  average 
glass  plate,  it  can  be  put  into  the  ordinary  plate  holder  for  ex¬ 
posure  in  the  camera. 

Simplicity  of  the  Development. — After  the  paper 
has  been  exposed  in  the  camera,  the  sheets  are  cut  off  and  de¬ 
veloped  by  a  red  light  in  a  dark  room,  similar  to  dry  plates  ; 
but  they  possess  a  marked  advantage  over  the  plates,  from  the 
fact  that  several  sheets  can  be  developed  at  one  time,  one  above 


the  other,  in  one  developing  bath,  somewhat  in  the  same  way 
as^silver  prints  are  toned.  The  sheets  are  first  wetted  by  im¬ 
mersion  in  a  tray  of  water,  and  then  placed  face  down  one  after 
the  other  in  the  developing  solution,  and  moved  about  in  the 
same  until  development  is  finished.  They  are  then  washed  in 
water,  and  fixed  in  a  combined  solution  of  hyposulphite  soda 
and  alum,  again  washed  and  dried. 

Fig.  9  shows  the  tray  upon  the  table  in  which  is  the  de¬ 
veloper  ;  the  bottle  and  graduates  may  also  be  seen.  The  de¬ 
veloped  negative  is  held  up  by  pts  upper  corners,  with  the 
fingers  for  examination  of  its  density  before  the  red  light, 
which  is  supposed  to  be  on  a  shelf  in  front  of  the  operator. 
The  S.  P.  C.  pyro  and  soda  developer,  already  mixed,  is 


PAPER  NEGATIVES. 


87 


furnished,  thereby  insuring  the  novice  perfect  success  at  the 
outset. 

Although  silver  prints  can  readily  be  struck  off  in  the  ordi¬ 
nary  way  in  the  printing  frame  from  the  paper  negative,  after 
it  is  dry,  which  will  show  no  grain  in  the  shadows,  still  it  is 
advised,  when  a  large  number  of  prints  are  to  be  made,  that 
the  negative  be  made  transparent  by  means  of  Translucine. 
To  apply  the  Translucine,  lay  the  negative  face  down 
upon  a  pad  composed  of  six  thicknesses  of  folded  manilla 
paper.  Pour  a  little  of  the  Translucine  on  the  back  of  the 
negative,  and  spread  with  the  finger  evenly  over  the  surface. 


In  four  or  five  hours  the  Translucine  will  have  soaked  into 
the  paper,  rendering  it  nearly  transparent,  and  free  from  grain. 
Heat  is  not  necessary,  but  may  be  used  to  accelerate  its  action. 
When  the  paper  is  of  an  even,  dark  color,  wipe  off  the  excess 
of  Translucine  with  a  clean  rag,  and  the  negative  is  ready  to 
print.  If  the  negative  is  in  constant  use,  an  occasional  appli¬ 
cation  of  the  Translucine  will  keep  it  in  good  condition.  In 
this  way  the  paper  is  very  easily  made  transparent,  and  the 
negative  is  as  useful  as  if  it  were  on  glass. 

Preparation  of  the  Sensitive  Film . — The  pro¬ 
cess  consists  in  giving  the  paper  a  preliminary  coating  of  gela¬ 
tine  sufficiently  thick  to  give  a  plane  surface  to  the  paper,  fill¬ 
ing  up  all  the  depressions,  and  then  in  calendering  the 


88 


HOW  TO  MAH  E  PICTURES. 


paper  thus  coated,  so  that  it  presents  an  absolutely 
polished  surface  to  the  sensitive  emulsion,  which  is,  as  with 
the  ordinary  plates,  based  on  gelatine.  The  paper  is  thus  pre¬ 
pared  in  the  roll  thirty  inches  in  width,  and  is  then,  still  in  the 
roll,  coated  with  gelatine  bromide  emulsion  in  a  double  appli¬ 
cation,  the  second  beginning  with  the  end  at  which  the  lirst 
finished,  securing  a  general  equality  of  the  film  which  no  film 


Eg.lL. 


on  glass  attains  as  a  rule,  and  at  the  same  time  obviating 
in  the  one  application  any  defects  which  the  other  may  have 
had. 

I  am  informed  that  the  machinery  employed  is  large  enough 
to  prepare  and  coat  a  strip  of  paper  thirty  inches  wide  by 
3,800  feet  long,  and  to  produce  a  superior  negative  paper,  pos¬ 
sessing  the  characteristics  so  desirable  in  any  sensitive  film, 


such  as  extreme  uniformity  of  coating,  great  sensitiveness, 
freedom  from  halation,  and  other  accidental  defects  often  found 
in  glass  plates,  at  a  cost  much  below  that  of  ordinary  dry 
plates,  and  of  equal  excellence.  The  paper  possesses  a  won¬ 
derfully  fine  close  texture,  and  its  surface  is  coated  with  an  ex¬ 
tremely  sensitive  gelatine  argentic  emulsion. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


I 


THE 

SCOVILL 
Portable 

Dry  Plate  Outfits 

FOE  AMATEURS 

Old  Style  Equipment.  New  Style  Equipment. 


'Y'HE  introduction  of  Dry  Plates  and  the  impetus  given  by  them  to  the 
cause  of  Amateur  Photography,  created  a  demand  for  light  and  com¬ 
pact  apparatus  that  could  be  easily  carried  about.  That  demand  the  Scovill 
Manufacturing  Company  of  New  York  anticipated  and  first  met  by  the  in¬ 
troduction  of  apparatus  especially  designed  for  the  use  of  amateurs. 

When  they  announced  an  Outfit  comprising  a  Camera,  Holder,  Tripod, 
Carrying  Case,  and  a  good  Lens,  for  $10,  a  new  era  in  Amateur  Photog¬ 
raphy  began,  and  it  was  destined  to  be  henceforth  a  popular  and  cultivating 
recreation. 

The  Cameras  they  make  for  amateu  rs  are  not  mere  toys — they  have  been 
used  and  approved  by  eminent  photographers.  Certainly  no  apparatus 
can  compare  with  that  made  by  their  American  Optical  Co.’s  Factory,  in 
durability,  accuracy  and  elegance  of  finish.  It  is  in  use  in  all  parts  of  the 
globe,  and  has  by  merit  won  this  wide-spread  reputation.  Be  not  deceived 
by  what  is  copied  after  it.  See  that  your  apparatus  bears  the  brand  of  their 
factory. 

Every  article  enumerated  in  this  Catalogue  has  the  guarantee  of  the 
Scovill  Manufacturing  Co.,  established  in  1802,  and  well  known  throughou 
the  world  for  fair  and  honorable  dealing  as  well  as  for  the  marked 
superiority  of  their  photographic  apparatus  and  specialties. 

New  Catalogues,  circulars,  etc.,  will  be  mailed  to  any 
one  whose  address  is  sent  with  the  request  for  such  copies. 


2 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


FAVORITE 


APPARATUS  OUTFIT' 


All  Articles  of  which  are  Warranted  Accurate  in  Every  Respect, 

These  Outfits  are  lighter,  more  compact,  far  handsomer  and  more  accurate 
than  any  which  are  offered  at  the  same  price.  Many  professional 
photographers  have  bought  them  and  use  them  constantly. 


In  each  outfit  the  Waterbury  Lens  is  worth  more  than  the 
price  of  the  whole  outfit. 


FAVOKITE  OUTFIT  A,  price  $10,00,  comprises 


A  Favorite  View  Camera  to  produce  4x5  inch  pictures,  with  vertical 
shifting  front,  single  swing  movement ,  rubber  bellows  and  folding  platform, 
with  patent  latch  for  making  bed  rigid  instantaneously, 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder  (Reversible),  with  patent  Registering 
Slides. 

1  Taylor  Improved  Folding  Tripod. 

1  No.  A  “Waterbury”  Achromatic  Lens  with  a  set  of  Stops. 

1  Carrying  Case. 

5x7  Favorite  Outfit,  -  Price,  $12.00 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES 


3 


FAVORITE  OUTFIT  B,  price  $12.00,  comprises 


A  Favorite  View  Camera,  to  produce  pictures  5x8  inches,  with 
vertical  shifting  front ,  single  swing  movement ,  rubber  bellows  and  folding 
platform,  with  patent  latch  for  making  bed  rigid  instantaneously  ;  also 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder  (Reversible),  with  patent  Registering 
Slides ,  and  with  Kits. 

1  Taylor  Improved  Folding  Tripod. 

1  No.  B  “  Waterbury  ”  Achromatic  Lens  with  a  set  oj  Stops. 

1  Carrying  Case. 


FAVORITE  OUTFIT  0,  price  $18.50,  comprises 


A  Favorite  View  Camera,  to  produce  5x8  inch  pictures,  with  vertical 
shifting  front ,  single  swing  movement ,  rubber  bellows  and  folding  platform, 
with  patent  latch  for  making  bed  rigid  instantaneously. 

This  Camera  is  constructed  so  as  to  make  either  a  Picture  on  the  full 
she  of  the  plate  (5  x  8  inches),  or  by  substituting  the  extra  front  (supplied 
with  the  outfit)  and  using  the  pair  of  lenses  of  shorter  focus,  it  is  admirably 
adapted  for  taking  stereoscopic  negatives.  Included  in  this  outfit  are  also 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder  (Reversible),  with  patent  Registering 
Slides ,  and  with  Kits. 

1  B  “  Waterbury”  Achromatic  Lens,  with  Stops. 

1  Pair  “Waterbury”  Achromatic  Matched  Stereoscopic  Lenses,  each 
with  Stops. 

1  Taylor  Improved  Folding  Tripod. 

1  Carrving  Case. 


4 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


FAVORITE  OUTFIT  D,  price  $14.00,  comprises 

A  Favorite  View  Camera  to  produce  pictures  6-£x8i  inches,  with 
vertical  shifting  front ,  single  swing  movement,  rubber  bellows  and  folding 
platform,  with  patent  latch  for  making  bed  rigid  instantaneously  ;  also 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder  (Reversible),  with  patent  Registeting 
Slides ,  and  with  Kits. 

1  Taylor  Improved  Folding  Tripod. 

1  No.  B  “  Waterbury”  Achromatic  Lens  with  a  set  of  Stops. 

1  Carrying  Case. 


FAVORITE  OUTFIT  E,  price  $26.00,  comprises 

A  Favorite  View  Camera  to  produce  pictures  8x10  inches,  with 
vertical  shifting  front ,  single  swing  movement ,  rubber  bellows  and  folding 
platform,  with  patent  latch  for  making  bed  rigid  instantaneously;  also 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder  (Reversible),  with  patent  Registeting 
Slides ,  and  with  Kits. 

1  Taylor  Improved  Folding  Tripod. 

1  No.  C  “  Waterbury”  Achromatic  Lens  with  a  set  of  Stops. 

1  Carrying  Case. 


NE  PLUS  ULTRA  OUTFITS. 


4x5  Ne  Plus  Ultra  Outfit,  price  $9.00,  comprises 

A  4  x  5  Ne  Plus  Ultra  Camera,  which  has  single  swing,  rubber  bellows, 
removable  front  and  folding  platform. 

1  Patent  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder. 

1  Taylor  Folding  Tripod. 

1  Waterbury  Achromatic  Lens  with  Stops. 

1  Wooden  Carrying  Case. 


5  x  8  Ne  Plus  Ultra  Outfit,  price  $10*00,  comprises 

A  5  x  8  Ne  Plus  Ultra  Camera,  which  has  single  swing,  rubber  bellows, 
removable  front  and  folding  platform. 

1  Patent  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder. 

1  Taylor  Folding  Tripod. 

1  Waterbury  Achromatic  Lens  with  Stops. 

1  Wooden  Carrying  Case. 


EQUIPMENT  A-A. 

Consists  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  A,  with 
1  Scovill  Focusing  Cloth. 

1  Dozen  4x5  Dry  Plates. 

1  W.  I.  A.  Petite  Lantern. 

Complete  for  field  service,  Price,  $12.00. 


EQUIPMENT  B-B. 

Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  B,  with  the  additional  articles 
enumerated  in  A-A.  (Dry  Plates  5x8  size.) 

Complete  for  field  service,  Price,  $14.50. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES, 


5 


EQUIPMENT  0-0. 

Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  C,  with  the  additional  articles 
mentioned  in  Equipment  A-A.  (Dry  Plates  5x8  size.) 

Complete  for  field  service,  Price,  $21.00. 


EQUIPMENT  D-D. 

Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  D,  with  the  additional  articles 
enumerated  in  A-A.  (Dry  Plates  6^x8i  inches.)  Price,  $17.00. 

Where  sensitive  Plates  are  taken  to  a  photographer’s  and  there  devel¬ 
oped,  printed  from,  and  mounted  on  card-board,  any  of  the  above  Equip¬ 
ments  lack  nothing  that  is  essential.  We  recommend  the  amateur  to  finish 
his  own  pictures,  and  hence  to  procure  one  of  the  equipments  on  pag.  30. 


EQUIPMENT  A-A-A.— Price  $20.00. 

Complete  in  every  Requisite  for  making  the  Highest  Class  Pictures. 

LACKING  NOTHING  FOR  VIEW  TAKING,  DEVELOPMENT  AND  THE  PRINTING 
AND  MOUNTING  OF  PHOTOGRAPHS. 


Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  A . $10  00 

Also  1  Developing  Outfit  4x5  (see  page  6.) .  5  25 

“  1  Printing  and  Toning  Outfit,  4x5  (see  page  7.) .  4  87 


EQUIPMENT  B-B-B.— Price,  $24.50. 

Complete  in  every  Requisite  for  making  the  Highest  Class  Pictures, 


Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  B . $12  00 

Also  1  Developing  Outfit  5  x  8  (see  page  6.) .  6  50 

“  1  Printing  and  Toning  Outfit  5x8  (see  page  7.)  .  6  38 


EQUIPMENT  C-C-C.-Price,  $31.00. 

Complete  in  every  Requisite  for  making  the  Highest  Class  Pictures, 


Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  C . , . $18  50 

Also  1  Developing  Outfit  5  x  8  (see  page  6.) .  6  50 

tl  1  Printing  and  Toning  Outfit  5x8  (see  page  7.) .  6  38 


EQUIPMENT  D-D-D.— Price,  $28.00. 


Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  D . $14  00 

Also  1  Developing  Outfit  634  x  834  (see  page  6.) .  7  00 

u  1  Printing  and  Toning  Outfit  634  x  834  (see  Page  7.) .  7  00 


EQUIPMENT  E-E-E.— Price,  $42.00. 

Consisting  of  Favorite  Apparatus  Outfit  E . $26  00 

Also  1  Developing  Outfit  8  x  10  (see  page  6.) .  8  50 

■“  1  Pointing  and  Toning  Outfit  (see  page  7.) . .  8  50 


6 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


SCOVILL’S 

Pure  Chemicals  &  Accessories 

FOR  MAKING-  NEGATIVES. 


We  offer  for  use  with  any  Outfit  to  make  pictures  4x5  inches,  the  fol 
lowing  goods  packed  securely  in  a  wooden  case  : 


1  pkg.  S.P.C.  Carbonate  Soda  De¬ 

veloper, 

2  4  x  5  Glossy  Rubber  Pans, 

1  4  oz.  Graduate. 

1  Minum  Graduate, 

1  oz.  Bromide  Ammonium, 

1  lb.  Hyposulphite  Soda, 


1  lb.  Alum, 

1  bot.  S.P.C.  Negative  Varnish, 
1  doz.  4x5  Dry  Plates, 

1  Scovill  Focusing  Cloth, 

1  Knock-down  Lantern, 

1  Russell  Negative  Clasp. 


PRICE,  COMPLETE,  $5.25. 


For  use  with  any  5x8  Outfit  we  supply  the  same  goods,  with  the 
exception  of  the  substitution  of  5  x  8  Pans  and  Plates  for  the  4x5  size. 

PRICE,  5x8  DEVELOPING  OUTFIT,  $6.50. 

“  63^x83^  “  “  7.00. 

“  8x10  “  “  8.50. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


7 


S.  P.  c. 


Outfit  for  Printing,  Toning,  Fixing  and  Mounting  4x5  Pictures. 


14x5  Printing  Frame. 

15x7  Porcelain  Pan  Deep. 

1  4^  x  5-fc  S.  P.  C.  V ulcanite  Tray. 

2  dozen  4x5  S.  P.  C.  Sensitized 

Albumen  Paper. 

1  bottle  French  Azotate.  j  For 
1  “  Chlor.Gold,7igr.  (  toning. 

1  2  ounce  graduate. 


1  lb.  Hyposulphite  of  Soda. 

2  dozen  sheets  6£x8£  Card-board 

with  Gilt  Form. 

1  \  Pint  Jar  Parlor  Paste. 

1  1^  inch  Bristle  Brush. 

1  Glass  Form  (for  trimming  prints). 
1  Robinson’s  Straight  Trimmer. 


Securely  packed  in  a  box,  which  serves  also  for  a 
fuming  box. 


Si  Pi  Cm 

Outfit  for  Printing,  Toning,  Fixing  and  Mounting  5x8  Pictures. 

This  outfit  is  like  the  one  on  preceding  page,  but  with  Printing 
Frame,  Vulcanite  Tray,  Sensitized  Paper,  and  Card-board  adapted  for 
5x8  Pictures. 


Price  complete,  $6.38.  Securely  packed  in  a  Paper  Box. 


6i  x  8i  Printing  and  Toning  Outfit.  Price,  $7.00. 
8x10  “  “  “  “  8.50. 


8 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


WATERBURY  OUTFITS. 


The  Waterbury  Cameras,  introduced  in  1885,  are  like  other  cameras 
and  apparatus  made  by  the  American  Optical  Company — unapproach¬ 
able  ! 

They  are  made  of  mahogany,  are  well  polished,  have  rubber  bellows, 
folding  platform,  patent  latch  for  making  bed  rigid  instantaneously, 
single  swing,  vertical  shifting  front,  and  are  as  light  and  compact  as 
substantia]  cameras  can  be  constructed. 

Fitted  with 
Eastman-Walker 
Roll-Holder. 
New  Model, 
with 

Automatic  Tally. 

4x5  Waterbury  Outfits,  Complete . ....$12  OO  28  OO 

CONSISTING  OF 

1  Single  Swing  Camera,  described  above. 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides. 

1  Wooden  Carrying  Case. 

1  Improved  Taylor  Tripod 
1  No.  A  Waterbury  Lens  with  a  set  of  Stops. 


1  LATEST  {  4^x5^  Waterbury  Outfit,  complete  . $14  00 

SIZES  -Uix6i  “  “  ‘  .  15  00 

INTRODUCED  ( 5x7  “  “  “  .  16  00 

5x8  Waterbury  Outfits,  Complete . $16  50  38  OO 


CONSISTING  OF 

1  Single  Swing  Camera,  described  above. 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides. 

1  Wooden  Carrying-  Case. 

1  Improved  Taylor  Tripod. 

1  No.  B  Waterbury  Lens  with  a  set  of  Stops. 

Waterbury  Outfits,  Complete. ...  $20  OO  44  OO 

CONSISTING  OF 

1  Single  Swing  Camera,  described  above. 

1  Scovill  Double  Dry  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides. 

1  Wooden  Carrying  Case. 

1  Improved  Taylor  Tripod. 

1  No.  B  Waterbury  Lens  with  a  set  of  Stops. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


9 


IrCMtet  (taPMS]. 


When  folded  up,  a  4x5  Tourists’ Camera  measures  but  5f  x  x  2 
inches,  and  it  is  without  any  projecting  parts,  pins  or  screws,  so  that  it  may 
be  slipped  into  and  not  tear  a  gentleman’s  pocket.  The  rods  which  are 
used  to  move  forward  the  front  of  the  camera  are  easily  detached  from  it 
and  drawn  out  of  the  bed.  The  connector  at  the  other  end  of  the  rods  is 
just  as  readily  unset.  To  replace  these  three  parts  when  the  camera  is 
brought  out  for  service,  requires  no  more  time  or  skill  than  to  take  them  off. 
They  are  nicely  adjusted,  and  are  polished  and  nickel  plated,  so  that  they 
add  to  the  handsome  appearance  of  the  camera,  and  contrast  well  with  its 
polished  mahogany  surface  and  the  purple  hue  of  its  bellows.  The  weight 
of  this  camera  and  its  dry  plate  holder  (but  pounds  for  the  4x5  size)  is 
on  the  center  of  the  tripod.  In  focusing,  the  front  of  the  camera  and  the 
lens  are  pushed  forward,  thus  avoiding  any  disarrangement  of  the  focusing 
cloth.  When  the  focus  is  obtained,  further  movement  of  the  lens  is  checked 
or  stopped  by  means  of  a  screw  acting  on  a  spring,  which  is  pressed  at  the 
ends  against  the  focusing  rods.” 


Tourist’s  Pocket  Outfit  No.  0206. — 4x5  Tourist’s  Pocket  Camera,  with 

1  Daisy  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides. 

1  Scovill  Extension  Tripod  No.  1,  with  patent  reversing  attachment. 

1  Canvas  Carrying  Case  with  Shoulder  Strap. 

Price,  complete,  $21.00. 

Tourist’s  Pocket  Outfit  No.  0207.-5x8  Tourist’s  Pocket  Camera,  with 

1  Daisy  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides. 

1  Scovill  Extension  Tripod  No.  2,  with  patent  reversing  attachment. 

1  Canvas  Carrying  Case  with  Shoulder  Strap. 

Price,  complete,  $28.00. 


We  recommend  the  purchase  and  use  with  the  above  Outfits  of  a 
Lens  or  Lenses  selected  from  the  list  on  page  25. 

For  Developing  and  Sensitized  Paper  Outfits  to  be  used  with  the  above, 
refer  to  pages  6  and  7. 


10 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


(. Introduced  in  1876.) 


CENTENNIAL  OUTFIT  No.  202,  price  $22.00,  Consists  of 

A  Mahogany  Polished  Camera  for  taking  pictures  4x5  inches,  with 
Folding  Bellows  Body ,  single  swing,  hinged  bed,  and  brass  guides.  It 
has  a  shifting  front  for  adjusting  the  sky  and  foreground,  with 

1  Daisy  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides;  also 
1  Canvas  Carrying  Case. 

1  No.  1  Scovill  Adjustable  Tripod. 

CENTENNIAL  OUTFIT  No.  202  A,  price  $24.00, 

The  same  as  No.  202,  but  with  Camera  for  taking  pictures  4£  x  5-£  inches. 

CENTENNIAL  OUTFIT  No.  202  B,  price  $26.00,  for 

pictures  4Jx6^  inches. 

CENTENNIAL  OUTFIT  No.  203,  price  $30.00,  Consists  of 

A  Folding  Mahogany  Camera,  well 
known  as  the  ’76  Camera  (see  illustra¬ 
tion).  It  is  adapted  for  taking  5x8 
inch  pictures,  and  also  for  stereo¬ 
scopic  views — together  with 

1  Daisy  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder,  with 
Patent  Registering  Slids ;  also 
1  Canvas  Carrying  Case. 

1  No.  2  Scovill  Adjustable  Tripod. 


CENTENNIAL  OUTFIT  No.  204,  price  $42.00,  Consists  of 


A  Folding  Mahogany  Camera  of  finest  style  and  finish  for  taking  6i  x  81 


inch  pictures,  with 

1  Daisy  Dry  Plate  Holder,  with  Patent  Registering  Slides ;  also 
1  Canvas  Carrying  Case. 

1  Scovill  Extension  Tripod,  No.  8. 

For  larger  or  special  View  Cameras,  consult  the  American  Optical 
Company's  Catalogue. 

We  recommend  the  purchase  and  use  with  the  above  Outfits  of  a 
Lens  or  Lenses  selected  from  the  list  on  page  25. 

For  Developing  and  Sensitized  Paper  Outfits  to  be  used  with  the  above, 
refer  to  pages  6  and  7. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


11 


ST.  LOUIS 

Reversible  -  Back  Cameras. 

(patented.) 


IN  addition  to  the  desirable  features  which  the  Back  Focus  Reversible 
Camera  possesses  (see  description  below)  the  St.  Louis  Reversible- 
Back  Cameras  have  the  rack  and  pinion  movement,  patent  latch  for  making 
the  bed  rigid  instantaneously,  and  the  ground-glass  so  arranged  that  the 
holder  may  be  slid  in  front  of  it,  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 

Each  Camera  is  supplied  with  one  Daisy  Holder  with  patent  Registering 
Slides  and  canvas  case. 


THE  growing  use  of  dry  plates,  and  the  desire  for  rapid  exposures, 
led  to  the  introduction  of  the  American  Optical  Patented  Reversible 
Back  Cameras,  and  because  they  add  to  the  grace  and  celerity  of  view¬ 
taking  they  have  become  vastly  popular.  A  novel  arrangement  of  a  de¬ 
tachable  carriage  at  the  back  combines  such  a  multiplicity  of  adjustments 
in  itself  that  a  dry-plate  holder  may  be  reversed  or  be  set  for  either  an  8x10 
upright  or  horizontal  picture — all  of  these  movements,  without  once  changing 
the  dry-plate  holder  in  the  carriage. 

SAINT  LOUIS  REVERSIBLE-BACK  CAMERAS. 


Single 

For  View.  Swing-back. 

4  x5  . $25  00 

4^x5^ .  26  00 

41^x6)^ .  30  00 

5  x7  .  32  00 

5  x8  .  34  00 

6^x8^ .  36  00 

8  xlO  .  40  00 

11  xl4  .  60  00 


Double 

Swing-back. 

$29  00 
30  00 

34  00 

35  00 
38  00 
40  00 
44  00 
64  00 


Fitted  with  Eastman-Walker  Roll  Holder. 
New  Model  with  Automatic  Tally. 
Single  Double 

Swing-back.  Swing-back. 


$52 

00 

$55 

:S 

54 

00 

58 

00 

60 

00 

64 

00 

70 

00 

74 

00 

102 

00 

106 

00 

Not  made  above  11x14  size. 


12 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


Flammang’s  Patent  Revolving-Back  Cameras. 

(patented.) 

Each  Incased  in  a  Canvas  Bag,  with  Handle. 


(Back  Focus  Pattern.) 


‘These  are  the  finest  View  Cameras  ever  constructed,”  so  says  every 
photographer  who  has  examined  any  of  them,  and  this  exclamation  is  not 
merely  a  tribute  to  the  beauty  and  grace  of  their  design,  for  invariably  the 
desire  has  at  the  same  time  been  expressed  to  possess  one  of  these  truly 
novel  and  substantial  Cameras. 

Wherein  lies  the  merit  and  attractiveness  of  the  Revolving-Back  Camera, 
that  photographers  want  to  cast  aside  cameras  now  in  use  and  procure  one 
of  this  new  pattern  ?  Briefly  stated,  it  enables  the  view  taker  to  secure 
either  an  upright  or  a  horizontal  picture  without  changing  the  plate  holder 
after  it  has  been  slid  into  the  carriage.  No  other  camera  can  with  such 
wondrous  ease  and  celerity  be  changed  from  the  vertical  to  the  upright  or 
vice  versa .  The  carriage  is  simply  turned  about  in  the  circle  and  automat¬ 
ically  fastened.  By  this  latter  provision  the  carriage  may  be  secured  at 
either  quarter  of  the  circle.  Ordinarily,  the  slide  will  be  drawn  out  of  the 
holder  to  the  right  ;  but  in  certain  confined  situations,  the  ability  to  with¬ 
draw  the  slide  to  the  left  enables  the  photographer  to  obtain  a  view  which 
he  could  not  get  with  the  usual  provision  in  a  camera.  The  photog¬ 
rapher  of  experience  is  well  aware  of  the  difficulty,  when  taking  an  upright 
picture  with  a  large  camera  without  the  revolving  back  feature,  of  reaching 
up  to  draw  out  the  slide  at  the  top,  and,  what  is  more  essential,  of  getting 
out  the  slide  without  fogging  the  plate  in  the  holder. 

Grace  and  strength  are  combined  in  the  Revolving-Back  Camera,  and 
its  highly-desirable  features  are  gained  without  the  sacrifice  of  steadiness 
or  any  other  essential  principle  in  a  good  camera.  Indeed,  its  merit  is  such 
that  out-door  photography  has  been  advanced  and  made  more  attractive  by 
ts  introduction. 

For  a  more  detailed  description  consult  Scovill’s  general  catalogue. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


13 


Revolving-back  Camera. 


(patented 


(Front  Focus  Pattern.) 

PRICE  LIST. 

Revolving-back  Cameras,  each  incased  in  a  canvas  bag,  with  handle, 
and  above  17x20  size,  with  two  handles. 

Fitted  with  Eastman- 
Walker  Roll  Holder 
New  Model,  with  Au¬ 
tomatic  Tally. 


Single 

Double 

Single 

Double 

REVERSIBLE. 

Swing. 

Swing. 

Swing. 

Swing-back. 

550A.  For  View  4 

X 

5  i 

in . 

$36  OO 

$46  OO 

$51  OO 

551. 

<  4 

AhtX 

534 

.  .  .  .  W  OO 

38  OO 

55iAB. 

<  4 

6/4 

...  34  00 

39  00 

55iA. 

(  4 

5 

X 

7 

4  4 

35  00 

40  OO 

55  00 

60  OO 

55iB. 

4  4 

5 

X 

8 

4  4 

35  00 

40  OO 

55  OO 

60  OO 

552. 

4  4 

6^x 

8K 

4  4 

45  00 

50  OO 

69  OO 

74  00 

553- 

4  4 

8 

X 

10 

4  4 

55  00 

80  OO 

85  OO 

554. 

4  4 

10 

X 

12 

4  4 

70  OO 

IOI  OO 

106  OO 

555- 

4  4 

11 

X 

14 

4  4 

77  50 

82  50 

119  50 

124  50 

556 

4  4 

1.4 

X 

17 

4  4 

95  00 

140  OO 

145  OO 

557. 

4  4 

17 

X 

20 

4  4 

no  OO 

170  OO 

175  OO 

557A. 

4  4 

18 

X 

22 

115  OO 

185  OO 

I90  OO 

558. 

4  4 

20 

X 

24 

4  4 

130  OO 

200  OO 

210  OO 

559- 

4  4 

25 

X 

30 

4  4 

175  OO 

These  Cameras  are  fitted  with  Daisy  Dry-plate  Holders. 


Please  state,  when  ordering  any  size  below  10x12,  whether  front  or 
back  focus  is  desired. 

Revolving-back  Cameras  with  front  focus  not  made  above  8x10  size. 


14 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


THE  SCOYILL  MANIFOLD  CAMERA. 

While 
this  camera 
serves  man  - 
ifold  pur¬ 
poses  as  its 
name  indi¬ 
cates,  noth- 
ing  could 
be  more 
simple  o  r 
more  easily 
manipu¬ 
lated.  The 

_  Manifold 

Camera  has 

special  advantages  peculiar  to  itself  and  possesses  the  greatest  number  of 
desirable  features  which  can  be  combined  in  a  camera  without  sacrificing 
lightness  and  compactness,  or  having  complicated  adjustments.  The 
unique  device  which  controls  the  horizontal  and  vertical  swings  was 
patented  by  Mr.  W.  J.  Stillman,  of  the  editorial  staff  of  the  Photographic 
Times.  To  this  has  been  added  a  central  latch  for  the  purpose  of  hinging 
the  swing  movements  within  perfect  control  of  the  operator.  An  approximate 
focus  is  obtained  quickly 
with  the  rear  portion  of 
the  camera,  which  is  pro¬ 
vided  with  the  patent  re¬ 
versible  back.  The  fine 
focu,s  is  obtained  by  means 
of  the  rack  and  pinion 
movement,  shifting  the 
front  upon  which  the  lens 
is  attached. 

While  this  camera  is 
made  to  compass  the  great 
length  of  draw  shown  in 


the  first  illustration,  the  rear  portion  of  the  bed  may  be  wholly  detached, 
and  when  desired,  one-third  of  the  remaining  portion  of  the  platform  ;  a 
great  advantage  when  photographing  interiors,  when  an  obtrusive  tail  board 
renders  focusing  almost  an  impossibility.  With  one-half  of  the  bed  taken 
off,  this  camera  is  still  of  the  usual  length  of 
draw.  The  ground  glass,  when  not  in  use,  is  dis- 
placed,  not  detached ,  by  having  the  plate  holder 
slid  in  front  of  it.  This  arrangement  of  ground 
glass  and  plate  holder  is  shown  in  the  second 
view.  Still  another  noticeable  feature  is  the 
absence  of  clamping  screws  from  the  front 
boards,  to  move  which  one  needs  but  to  press 
firmly  against  the  lens.  The  bed  folds  in  fron 
of  and  behind  the  camera,  and  has  the  patented 
latch  recently  devised  at  the  American  Optical 
Co.’s  factory.  PRICE  LIST,  including  Canvas 
Case  for  Camera  and  one  Holder,  with  patent  Reg. 
Slides. 

3Ux4V  size...  $34  00  4%x634  size . $41  00  I  6%x8%  size.  . . .  $52  50 

4x5  size .  38  00  5x7  size .  42  00  |  8x10  size .  58  00 

4MX^34  size. ...  40  00 

Fitted  with  Eastman-Walking  Roll  Ho.der,  New  Model : 

4x5  size,  $53  00  ;  4fx6£,  $58  50;  5x7,  $62  00 ;  6£x8i,  $76  50 ;  8x10 


00 


SCOVILLS  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


15 


THE  SCOVILL  DETECTIVE  CAMERAS. 


It  has  not  come  to  be  generally  known,  but  such  is  the  fact,  that  Artists 
of  renown  and  shrewd  Detectives  carry  about  these  Cameras,  and  pictures 
are  secured  by  them  for  their  different  lines  of  study  through  their  instru¬ 
mentality  in  a  manner  which  is  perfectly  simple — in  fact,  it  requires  no 
skill  other  than  to  get  within  the  range  of  focus  of  the  unsuspecting  victim. 
As  the  party,  whether  man,  woman,  or  child,  is  not  aware  that  anything 
unusual  is  transpiring,  the  expression  of  the  countenance  and  the  pose  are 
not  arranged  with  reference  to  their  appearance  in  a  picture.  A  quick 
working  lens  is  hidden  in  the  camera,  and  also  a  few  plate  holders.  By 
pressing  on  a  spring  the  whole  operation  of  exposure  is  completed. 

Scovill’s  Detective  Camera,  for  3£x4£  pictures  with  the  marvelous 

Optimus  Lens  and  three  double  Dry-plate  Holders . $50  00 

Scovill’s  Detective  Camera,  for  4x5  pictures,  with  the  marvelous 

Optimus  Lens  and  three  double  Dry-plate  Holders .  60  00 

43^x634  Detective  Camera,  with  Beck  Lens  and  three  double  Dry- 

plate  Holders .  90  00 

5  x7  Detective  Camera,  with  Beck  Lens  and  three  double  Dry- 

plate  Holders .  . 100  00 

It  followed  naturally  upon  the  introduction  of  the  Roll  Holder  that  it 
should  be  applied  to  the  SCOVILL  DETECTIVE  CAMERA,  and  this 
has  been  done  in  a  manner  that  displays  the  greatest  ingenuity. 

Attached  to  each  is  the  Patent  Automatic  Tally,  to 
record  the  number  of  exposures  made. 

No  Roll  Holder  Camera  is  complete  without  this. 

Scovill’s  Roll  Holder  Detective  Camera,  for  34x4£  Pictures,  with 
the  marvelous  Optimus  Lens,  Roll  Holder,  with  Automatic 


Tally,  and  one  double  Dry-plate  Holder .  65  00 

Scovill’s  Roll  Holder  Detective  Camera,  for  4x5  Pictures,  with 
the  marvelous  Optimus  Lens,  Roll  Holder,  with  Automatic 
Tally,  and  one  double  Dry-plate  Holder .  75  00 


Many  amateurs  have  declared  that  the  pleasure  of  picture-taking  was  not 
fully  revealed  to  them  until  they  had  procured  and  tried  one  of  the 
SCOVILL  DETECTIVE  CAMERAS. 


16 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES 


Photographic  Outfits  for  Bicyclists, 


WITH  WHICH  TO  SECURE  MEMENTOES  OF  PLEASANT  EXCURSIONS. 

So  popular  has  amateur  photography  become  among  wheelmen,  that  the  two 
amusements  are  now  often  combined.  The  Camera  allows  unbounded  opportunities 
to  the  amateur  bicyclist  to  gather  choice  landscape  views. 

BICYCLISTS’  “  POCKET”  PHOTO-OUTFIT, 

Consisting  of  a  3£x4£  “  Pocket  ”  Camera,  with  Double  Dry  Plate  Holder,  with  patent 
Registering  Slides  and  Hinged  Ground  Glass.  This  Camera  weighs  only  12  ounces. 

A  UNIVERSAL  JOINT  BICYCLE  ATTACHMENT. 

A.  S.  M.  C.  INSTANTANEOUS  LENS,  with  Stops. 

The  “Pocket  ”  Bicycle  Camera  weighs  only  12  ounces. 

PRICE,  -  -  -  $12.00. 

NICKEL-PLATED  BICYCLE  ADJUSTABLE  SUPPORT . $1.50 

This  has  no  loose  pieces,  and  is  so  accurately  made  as  to  have  no  side  play. 

THE  “  MIGNON  ’^BICYCLISTS’ PHOTO-OUTFIT, 

(complete). 

Consisting  of  a  3Jx4£  Finely  Polished  Mahogany  Camera,  with  Swing  Back,  Vertical 
Shifting  Front,  Hinged  Ground  Glass,  Folding  Bed,  with  Patent  Latch ,  Rack  and  Pinion 
Movement  (Front  Focus). 

A  Universal  Joint  Bicycle  Attachment. 

A  Morrison  Bicycle  Lens,  pronounced  by  authorities  on  optics  to  be  without 
a  peer. 

A  Canvas  Saddle  Bag  lined  with  flannel,  to  prevent  marring  of  the  fine  finish 
of  the  camera. 

Price  of  “Mignon”  Bicyclists’  Photo-Outfit  Complete,  $50.00. 
Without  Lens.  $25.00. 


With  the  lenses  just  described,  clear,  sharp  pictures  can  be  obtained  which  will 
make  fine  transparencies  and  lantern  slides,  or  they  can  be  enlarged  up  to  8x10  size. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


17 


Tie  Scovill  Enlarging,  Reducing  and  Copying  Cameras. 


When  ordering,  please  specify  number  and  sizes  of  kits  wanted. 


Size,  63^x834»  Price,  $30.00  Size,  11x14,  Price,  $60.00 

“  8x10,  “  85.00  “  14x17,  “  72.00 

“  10x12,  “  48.00 

Size,  17x20,  -  •  $90.00. 

Special  sizes  and  styles  made  to  order. 

The  form  of  construction  of  this  new  Camera  is  made  apparent 
by  the  illustration  here  shown.  The  experienced  copyist  will  not 
need  any  such  simple  directions  for  use  as  we  append. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  USE. 

To  copy  a  negative  in  the  natural  size,  place  it  in  the  kit  on  the 
front  of  Camera  and  button  it  in.  Attached  to  the  center  frame 
of  the  Camera  is  a  division  upon  which,  on  the  side  toward  the 
Camera  front,  a  Lens  is  mounted.  Suppose  this  to  be  a  quarter- 
plate  Portrait  Lens,  the  focal  length  of  which  we  will  suppose  to 
be  4  inches — draw  back  the  center  frame  and  the  Lens  twice  the 
focal  length  of  the  Lens  (8  inches);  slide  the  back  frame  with 
ground  glass  the  same  distance  from  the  center  frame.  To  enlarge 
with  the  same  Lens  to  eight  times  the  size  of  the  original,  the 
center  of  the  Lens  must  be  4-J  inches  from  the  negative,  and  the 
ground  glass  be  36  inches  from  the  center  of  the  Lens.  To  reduce 
in  the  same  proportion,  reverse  and  have  36  inches  from  the  center 
of  the  Lens  to  the  negative,  and  from  the  center  of  Lens  to  ground 
glass  4^  inches. 


18 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


WALMSLEY’S  PHOTO-MICMAPHIC  CAMERA. 


This  instrument  (made  by  the  American  Optical  Co.)  is  the 
result  of  several  years  of  practical  study  by  Mr.  Walmsley.  It  is  now  in 
use  by  very  many  Colleges  and  leading  Microscopists  throughout  the 
country,  and  is  confidently  offered  as  an  efficient,  practical  and  cheap 
instrumeut  for  the  purpose. 


It  is  made  in  two  forms:  the  cheaper  (selling  for  $18.00)  is  adapted 
only  to  the  making  of  negatives  on  plates  33^x4^,  or  43^x5}^,  as  may  be 
necessary.  The  complete  form  (costing  $30)  is  also  a  minature  enlarging, 
reducing  and  copying  camera,  admirably  adapted  to  the  production  of 
lantern  transparancies  from  any  size  negative  up  to  43^x534*  The  follow¬ 
ing  description  ot  the  complete  camera  first  published  in  the  Photo¬ 
graphic  Times,  is  also  applicable  to  the  cheaper  form,  excepting  that  the 
latter  cannot  be  used  for  enlarging,  reducing  or  copying.  In  all  other  par¬ 
ticulars  the  two  boxes  are  identical. 

The  camera  (of  mahogany)  is  square,  carrying  a  Flammang  single 
plate  holder  for  43^x53^  plates  ;  usable  vertically  or  horizontally,  and  with 
kits  for  33^x43^  plates.  The  bellows  are  in  two  sections,  with  a  central 
division  of  mahogany,  which  carries  s  removable  partition,  to  which  a  suit¬ 
able  rectilinear  photographic  lens  can  be  attached,  for  enlarging,  reducing, 
or  copying.  A  light-tight  door  on  one  side  of  this  wooden  section  gives 
ready  access  to  the  lens  for  inserting  or  removing  diaphragms,  or  other 
necessary  manipulations,  whilst  a  milled  head,  accessible  from  the  same 
opening,  clamps  the  lens  bearing  section,  firmly  to  the  bed  of  the  camera  at 
any  desired  point. 

The  bellows  have  an  extension  of  two  feet  in  addition  to  the  length  of 
the  box,  sliding  very  smoothly  upon  V-shaped  ways,  which  for  greater  con¬ 
venience  are  made  in  two  sections,  firmly  attached  to  each  other  by  wooden 
dowels,  and  a  solid  brass  screw,  worked  by  a  milled  head. 

The  bellows  are  firmly  held  at  any  desired  point  of  extention  by  a  cam, 
operated  by  a  lever  conveniently  placed  at  the  rear  of  the  focusing  screen 
which  latter  is  hinged  at  the  bottom,  and  when  not  in  use,  lies  out  of  the 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


19 


way  upon  the  extension  bed.  The  screen  itself  is  of  the  very  finest  ground 
glass,  but  is  used  only  for  arranging  the  portion  of  the  object  to  be  photo¬ 
graphed  properly  in  the  center  of  the  plate,  as  no  surface  can  be  ground 
finely  enough  to  permit  the  sharp  focusing  of  any  delicately-lined  object. 
For  this  purpose,  a  circle  or  disc  of  thin  microscopic  covering  glass  is  at¬ 
tached  with  balsam  to  the  center  of  the  ground-glass  screen,  which  clears 
away  all  the  inequalities  of  the  latter,  and  leaves  an  exquisitely  fine  sur¬ 
face  to  receive  the  image,  which  by  using  an  ordinary  focusing  glass  may 
be  as  sharply  defined  as  in  the  eye-piece  of  the  microscope. 

The  front  of  the  camera  (which  is  double-shifting,  for  the  purpose  of 
centering),  carries  a  cone-shaped  tube,  which  receives  the  tube  of  the 
microscope  when  the  latter  is  inclined  to  a  horizontal  position,  and  conveys 
the  image  bearing  rays  of  light  therefrom  into  the  body  of  the  camera. 
This  cone  is  removable,  and  in  its  place  may  be  inserted  kits,  carrying 
negatives  from  quarter  to  half  size  for  enlargement,  or  reduction  to  lantern 
slides  as  may  be  desired.  Or  a  front  board,  bearing  a  lens,  may  be  inserted 
in  its  place,  converting  the  camera  into  a  copying  one.  Indeed,  a  more 
complete  instrument  for  all  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  devised  could 
scarcely  be  conceived  or  desired.  Its  design  was  the  result  of  several 
years  of  work  and  experiment  on  the  part  o  Mr.  Walmsley  ;  and  the 
Scovill  Mfg.  Co.  have  carried  out  his  plans  in  their  usual  masterly  manner, 
leaving  nothing  to  be  desired. 

In  use,  the  camera  is  attached  to  a  solid  platform  (which  also  carries 
the  microscope  and  lamp)  by  a  screw  such  as  is  used  with  an  ordinary  tri¬ 
pod.  By  this  means  any  jar  or  tremor  produced  by  a  passing  vehicle  or 
other  means,  is  communicated  to  microscope  and  camera  alike,  preventing 
any  diminution  of  sharpess  in  the  negative.  By  this  arrangement  also, 
the  whole  apparatus  is  so  compact  that,  with  the  bellows  closed,  the  oper¬ 
ator  can  easily  see  the  image  upon  the  ground  glass,  and  at  the  same  time 
reach  the  milled  heads  upon  the  microscope  controlling  the  stage  and 
focusing  movements,  permittiug  the  arrangement  of  the  subject  with  the 
greatest  nicety.  But  when  the  bellows  are  extended  to  their  full  length, 
some  appliance  becomes  necessary  to  operate  the  fine  adjustment  of  focus, 
whilst  the  eye  can  discern  the  changes  upon  the  screen.  This  is  most 
simply  effected  by  Mr.  Walmsley,  in  the  employment  of  a  fine  cord  passing 
in  a  groove  around  the  periphery  of  the  milled  head  of  the  fine  adjustment 
screw,  and  thence  through  a  series  of  hook  eyes  to  the  rear  of  the  camera 
bed,  where  it  is  held  taut  by  a  couple  of  leaden  weights.  The  slightest 
pull  upon  either  cord  moves  the  fine  adjustment  screw  with  the  utmost 
nicety. 

PRICE, 

Walmsley  Micro-Camera . . $18  00 

“  “  enlarging,  reducing,  and  copying  pattern  .  .  30  00 


20 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


SCOVILL’S  OUTFIT 

For  PHOTOCRAPHENC  with  the  MICROSCOPE. 


Photographing  with  the  microscope  has  hitherto  been  accomplished  by 
the  aid  of  elaborate  and  costly  apparatus,  and  been  applied  chiefly  to 
making  illustrations  for  scientific  magazines.  The  process  used,  that  of 
wet  collodion  in  connection  with  sunlight,  involved  the  procurement  of  an 
expensive  heliostat  to  produce  a  steady  illumination,  for  with  any  less 
powerful  light  the  exposure  would  necessarily  be  so  prolonged  that  the 
coating  of  the  plate  would  dry  and  become  useless.  Now  all  this  is 
changed,  for  with  the  modern  improvements  in  photography  which  are  the 
result  of  the  introduction  of  gelatine  dry  plates,  the  photographing  of  micro¬ 
scopic  objects  becomes  as  easy  of  accomplishment  as  the  photographing  of 
the  beautiful  and  visible  in  nature  is  with  the  popular  amateur  outfits. 

The  scientist  and  microscopist,  instead  of  spending  hours  in  making 
imperfect  drawings,  aided  by  the  camera  lucida,  may  in  a  few  minutes,  with 
the  assistance  of  photography,  produce  a  more  perfect  representation  of  a 
minute  object  than  it  is  possible  for  the  hand  of  man  to  do,  working  con¬ 
jointly  with  the  eye.  Not  only  can  an  enlarged  image  of  a  microscopic 
object  be  formed  for  illustration,  but  professors  in  colleges  will  find  it  a 
ready  means  to  produce  negatives  of  a  suitable  size  from  which  may  be 
made  transparencies  or  magic  lantern  slides  for  exhibition  to  classes  or  the 
public. 


If  this  is  done  in  the  daytime,  a  room  from  which  all  white  light  is  ex¬ 
cluded  should  be  selected  ;  but  if  used  at  night,  as  in  most  cases  it  would 
be,  the  operations  may  all  be  performed  in  the  midst  of  a  family  group  for 
their  interest  and  amusement,  and  to  impart  to  them  knowledge  of  the  mi¬ 
nute  life  or  organisms  of  the  world  which  the  microscope  alone  can  reveal. 

Scovill’s  Photomicroscopic  Equipment, 

- CONSISTING  OF  — 

1  Scovill  Special  Half  Plate  Camera. 

1  Multum  in  Parvo  Lantern,  with  Double  Condenser. 

1  dozen  4 %  x  size  B  Keystone  Plates  to  make  Negatives ;  also 
1  dozen  3K  x  4 M  size  A  Plates  for  Transparencies. 

Price,  Complete,  $18.00. 

The  presumption  is  that  you  are  provided  with  a  microscope.  If  not, 
we  recommend  the  purchase  of  one  from  a  regular  dealer  in  microsoopical 
goods. 

Circular  containing  directions  for  use  sent  with  each  outfit . 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


21 


MERCER  PHOTOMICROGRAPHIC 

CAMERA. 

Size,  2^x314. 


Price,  $7.50. 


This  Camera  is  provided  with  a  Brass  Cone  and  Plate  Holder 
with  Ground  Glass  attached,  to  slide  back  and  forth  in  the  carriage,  as 
desired. 


22 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


This  novel  Camera  is  worn  concealed 
underneath  the  coat,  the  lens  serving  as 
a  button,  and  is  operated  from  the 
pocket. 

It  was  designed  for  the  use  of  those 
who  wish  to  photograph  figures,  facial 
expression,  groups  in  action,  and  all 
studies  in  actual  life,  where  oppor¬ 
tunity  to  sketch  or  to  set  up  an  ordin¬ 
ary  camera,  arrange  the  focus,  draw 
Slides,  and  such  manipulation  are  out 
of  the  question.  Beautiful  street 
scenes,  that  one  could  not  otherwise 
photograph,  are  obtained  with  this 
camera. 

It  makes  six  pictures  on  a  revolving 
plate. 

PRICE,  $15.00. 

Patented  toy  Mr.  R.  D.  GRAY, 

Circular  Dry  Plates,  Keystone  Lightning  Brand,  for 
this  Camera,  $1.20  per  doz. 


Combined  Developing  and  Printing  Outfit 

FOR  USE  WITH  THE  CONCEALED  CAMERA,  COMPRISES 
One  6-J  x  8&  Flat  Printing  Frame. 

Two  6|  x  8^  Japanned  Trays. 

One  W.  I.  A.  Petite  Dry  Plate  Lantern. 

One  4-oz.  Glass  Graduate. 

One  1-oz.  “ 

One  Package  S.  P.  C.  Pyro  and  Potash  Developer. 

One  7x9  Glass  Pan. 

One  Dozen  Keystone  Lightning  Dry  Plates,  Circular  Form. 
Two  Dozen  6|  x  Sensitized  Paper. 

One  Bottle  French  Azotate. 

One  Bottle  Chloride  of  Gold  (small). 

One  lb.  Alum. 

One  lb.  Hyposulphite  Soda. 

Price  of  this  outfit  complete,  packed  ready  for  shipment,  $8.00 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


23 


THE  PETITE  CAMERA. 


This  camera  was  made  to  suit  the  refined  taste  of  one  of  Vassar’s  fair 
students.  The  design  on  the  part  of  the  manufacturers  was  to  reduce  the 
impedimenta  for  an  outing  to  the  minimum,  providing  a  3£x4£  camera  (to 
make  negatives  of  suitable  size  for  lantern  slides),  with  single  swing,  fold¬ 
ing  bed  with  patent  latch ,  vertical  shifting  front,  and  other  desirable  im¬ 
provements.  So  well  has  the  design  been  carried  out  that  many  ladies  will 
follow  the  example  of  Vassar’s  pupils,  and  learn  the  fascination  of  picture¬ 
taking  with  one  of  these  finely-polished  mahogany  cameras.  Gentlemen 
in  search  of  a  pocket  camera  need  not  seek  further.  The  Petite  Camera 
and  an  enlarging  camera  will  by  many  be  considered  a  satisfactory  and 
complete  equipment  for  such  photographing  as  they  desire  to  do. 

PRICE. 

Petite  Camera  with  one  double  Dry-Plate  Holder,  and  patent  Regis¬ 


tering  Slides . $12  00 

Same  Camera  with  canvas  bag,  with  shoulder  strap  and 

Scovill’s  Adjustable  (feather  weight)  Tripod .  17  00 


Scovill’s  Outfit  for  Making  Lantern  Slides  consists  of 

1  doz.  Thin  Crystal  Glass. 

2  “  Black  Mats. 

1  package  Black  Adhesive  Paper. 

1  doz.  3^x4  Keystone  Gelatino-Albumen  Dry  Plates. 

1  package  S.  P.  C.  Pyro  and  Potash  Developer. 

2  4ix5£  Solid  Glass  Pans. 

1  lb.  Hyposulphite  Soda. 

The  above,  packed  in  wooden  case,  price  complete . $3  50 

For  enlarging,  reducing,  or  copying  Negatives  to  make  Lantern  Slides, 
we  recommend  the  use  of  one  of  the  Scovill  Enlarging,  Reducing  and 
Copying  Cameras. 


24 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


WATERBURY  LENSES. 


The  unprecedented  success  which  has  everywhere  resulted  from 
the  employment  of  the  smaller  Waterbury  Lenses— -those  for  4x5 
and  5x8  respectively  (and  which  are  achromatic  combinations 
composed  of  a  bi-convex  Lens  of  crown  glass  cemented  to  a  plano¬ 
convex  Lens  made  of  the  best  flint  glass) — has  induced  the 
Scovill  Manufacturing  Company  to  extend  the  capabilities  of 
this  favorite  objective,  and  to  issue  one  of  larger  dimensions  and 
onger  focus  than  either  of  the  others. 

This  new  lens,  which  is  designated  “  The  ‘  C  ’  Waterbury  Lens,” 
possesses  all  the  excellent  qualities  of  those  of  smaller  size,  while 
it  takes  a  negative  of  greatly  increased  dimensions.  It  produces 
a  negative  on  an  8x10  plate  with  great  perfection,  although  some 
photographers  do  not  hesitate  to  use  it  on  a  10  x  12  plate.  The 
lens  is  constructed  of  the  finest  optical  glass,  and  has  a  diameter 
of  2J-  inches,  its  focus  being  15  inches.  When  the  largest  stop  is 
employed  this  lens  is  capable  of  producing  fine  portraits — es¬ 
pecially  busts — on  a  twelve-inch  plate. 

It  has  diaphragms  of  three  different  diameters,  these  being  care¬ 
fully  calculated  so  as  to  suit  the  various  exigencies  under  which  a 
lens  is  employed. 

PRICE. 


A,  Single,  for  4x5  plate . 13  50 

A,  Matched  pair,  stereoscopic .  7  00 

B,  Single,  for  5x8  plate .  1  50 

C,  “  “  8x  10  plate..... .  8  00 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


25 


Morrison’s  Wide-Angle  View  Lenses. 


Patented  May  21,  1872. 

These  Lense^  are  absolutely  rectilinear  ;  they 
embrace  an  angle  of  fully  100  degrees,  and  are  th« 
most  rapid  wide-angle  lenses  made. 


No. 

Diameter 
of  Lens. 

Size  of  Plate. 

Eq 

[uivalent 

^ocus. 

Price. 

1.. 

.  J  inch.  .  34 

x  44  inch. 

...  3 

inch,  each, 

$25  00  1 

2. . 

.  .1 

“  ..  4 

x  5  “ 

•  • 

“  “ 

25  00 

3.. 

.  .1 

“  ..44 

x  74  “ 

..  44 

t  C  II 

25  00 

4. . 

.  .1 

“  ..  5 

X  8 

.-  54 

It  ii 

25  00 

5. . 

.  .1 

“  ..64 

x  84  “ 

..  64 

II  it 

25  00 

6.. 

.  .1 

“  ..  8~ 

x  10 

.  .  8 

“  <1 

30  00 

7. . 

“  ..11 

x  14 

.  .104 

40  00  ) 

8.. 

•  •u 

“  ..14 

x  17 

.  .14 

“  “ 

50  00  \ 

9. . 

•  H 

“  ..17 

x  20 

..17 

60  00 

10. . 

..14 

“  ..20 

x  24 

.  .22 

80  00  [ 

11. . 

..H 

“  ..25 

x  80 

..28 

lt  4* 

100  00  ) 

These  5  sizes  will 
fit  into  1  flange. 


These  2  sizes  will 
fit  into  1  flange. 

These  3  sizes  will 
fit  into  1  flange. 


Nos.  1  to  6  are  all  made  in  matched  pairs  for  stereoscopic  work. 
The  shorter  focused  Lenses  are  especially  adapted  for  street  and  other 
views  in  confined  situations.  For  general  purposes,  a  pair  of  No.  5  Lenses 
will  be  found  most  useful 


Morrison  Combination  Wide-Angle  Lens. 

Opening  the  velvet-linea  morocco  case  presented  to  us  for  our  inspec¬ 
tion,  we  find  partitioned-off  space  containing  an  ordinary  5-inch  Morrison 
Wide-Angle  Lens,  on  which  the  front  and  back  combinations  are  distinctly 
marked  with  the  figure  5. 

Besides  this,  in  cells,  are  four  mountings  with  lenses  of  varying  focal 
lengths,  each  marked  in  white  with  a  number.  By  unscrewing  the  back 
combination  marked  5,  and  putting  in  its  place  the  mounting  marked  6,  a 
lens  of  6-inch  back  focus  is  obtained. 

Again,  by  removing  both  these  cells  and  replacing  them  with  the  two 
marked  8,  a  lens  of  8-inch  back  focus  is  the  result. 

By  screwing  in  the  front  combination  marked  5  and  the  back  combin¬ 
ation  marked  4,  a  lens  of  4-inch  back  focus  is  obtained. 

Putting  a  front  combination  marked  8  and  a  back  marked  6,  a  focus  of 
7  inches  is  produced. 

Thus  the  operator  has  a  choice  of  five  focal  lengths  with  the  one  lens. 

Price  for  Morrison  Combination  Wide-Angle  Lens,  $80. 

Morrison’s  Instantaneous  Wide-Angle  View  Lenses. 

With  full  opening,  these  Lenses  have  all  the  extreme  depth  for  which 
the  Morrison  Regular  Wide-Angle  Lenses  are  noted.  They  work  with 
extreme  rapidity,  and  will  cover  an  angle  of  90  degrees  sharp.  Furnished 
with  a  set  of  diaphragms. 


Diameter  of 
Lens. 

Size  of  Plate, 
Full  Opening. 

Size  of  Plate  when 
Stopped  Down. 

Focus. 

Price. 

4  inch. 

4x  4  inches. 

5x  7  inches. 

6  inches. 

$30  00 

1  “ 

4x  5  “ 

8x10 

8 

35  00 

14  “ 

5x  8  “ 

10x12 

10 

40  00 

13  << 

8x10  “ 

14x17 

12 

45  00 

26 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


The  Wale  Universal  Lenses. 


For  Landscapes,  Groups,  Portraits,  and  Instantaneous  Views. 


6  in.  back  focus,  for  5  x  8  Plates  and  under  (without  Shutter).  .$25 


6  “  ‘ 

. 

“5x8 

(<  j  (with  Instantaneous  ) 

(  and  Time  Shutter)  f 

8  “  ‘ 

. 

“  6^  x8 K  “ 

“  (without  Shutter).  . 

8  “  ‘ 

. 

“  6^x8^  “ 

j  (with  Instantaneous  ) 

(  and  Time  Shutter)  [ 

10  “  4 

. 

“  8  x  10 

44  (without  Shutter). . 

10  “  4 

* 

OO 

X 

o 

,  (  (with  Instantaneous  ) 

}  and  Time  Shutter)  ) 

00 

00 

00 

00 

00 

00 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


27 


CUNDLACH 

Rapid  Rectigraphic  Lenses. 


The  splendid  qualities  of  the  Rectigrapllic  (it  being  con¬ 
structed  on  a  principle  superior  to  that  employed  in  the  construction  of 
any  other  photographic  lens  in  the  market),  have  won  for  it,  in  the  short 
time  it  has  been  before  the  photographic  public,  a  well  recognized  place  in 
the  front  rank  of  photographic  objectives. 

It  possesses  all  the  qualities  required  to  make  it  equally  valuable  for 
either  Landscape  or  Portrait  Work.  For  the  latter  purpose  we  recommend 
especially  the  larger  sizes,  from  No.  4  up.  When  used  with  the  Modern 
Dry  Plate  they  will  equal  the  best  Portrait  Lenses  in  rapidity,  while,  with 
their  full  opening,  they  have  wonderful  depth  and  microscopic  sharpness. 

The  RECTIGRAPHIC  is  superior  to  any  lens  in  the  market  in  flat¬ 
ness  of  field,  and  is  the  only  one  that  can  be  focused  sharp  at  the  extreme 
edge  of  the  field,  being  free  from  astigmatism. 


Each  lens  is  supplied  with  a  set  of  Diaphragms  in  a  Morocco  Case. 


28 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


o-TJisrnDiijj^oia; 

Rapid  Rectigraphic  Lenses. 

DESCRIPTION  AND  PRICE. 


No. 

Size  of 
Plate. 

Size  of 
Portrait. 

Diam.  of 
Lerses. 

Back  of 
Focus. 

Equivalent 

Focus. 

Price. 

1 

4x5 

334x434 

1 

5^ 

634 

$20.00 

2 

5x8 

4x6 

m 

?3 4 

8 

30.00 

3 

6^x834 

5x8 

i  M 

9K 

10 

38.00 

4 

8x10 

634x834 

m 

11 

12 

50.00 

5 

10x12 

8x10 

2 

18*6 

1434 

64.00 

6 

11x14 

10x12 

% 

1534 

1634 

76.00 

7 

14x17 

12x15 

2% 

U34 

19 

125.00 

8 

17x20 

16x18 

8 

20 

22 

150.00 

Ca-TJITIDILiJLOS: 

Wide-Angle  Rectigraphic  Lenses. 

In  presenting  this  Objective  to  the  consideration  of  the  photographic 
public,  we  do  so  confident  that  it  is  the  best  and  most  rapid  wide-angle 
Photographic  objective  in  the  market.  It  is  absolutely  rectilinear,  and 
possesses,  in  so  far  as  any  wide-angle  lens  can,  the  qualities  that  have  won 
so  much  favor  for  the  Rapid  Rectigraphic. 


No. 

Size  of 
Plate. 

Diameter  of 
Lenses. 

Back 

Focus. 

Equivalent 

Focus. 

Price. 

1 

5x7 

^in. 

434  in. 

434  in. 

$24.00 

2 

634x834 

134  “ 

534  “ 

6  “ 

30.00 

3 

10x12 

134“ 

7M  “ 

8  “ 

40.00 

4 

14x17 

2  “ 

9^“ 

1034  “ 

55.00 

5 

17x20 

m  “ 

1334  “ 

14  “ 

80.00 

List  of  Caps,  Diaphragms,  Etc.,  for  the  Rapid  Recti¬ 
graphic  Lens. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

Flange . 

$0.45 

$0.65 

$0.75 

$1.00 

$1.30 

$1.60 

$2.50 

$3  00 

Diaphragms . 

.80 

1.20 

1.75 

2.25 

2.75 

3.40 

5.75 

6.75 

Case . 

.35 

.40 

.45 

.50 

.65 

.75 

1.25 

1.50 

Caps . 

.35 

.40 

.45 

.50 

.65 

.75 

1.25 

1.50 

SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


29 


Beck  Autograph  Rectilinear  Lenses. 


Without  exception  the  finest  Lenses  ever  made,  possessing 
qualities  entirely  their  own. 


These  Lenses  are 
perfectly  Aplanatic, 
covering  with  full 
aperture  to  the  ex¬ 
treme  corners  the  size 
plate  for  which  they 
are  designated  in  the 
list,  and  much  larger 
sizes  when  moderate¬ 
ly  stopped  down 
They  are  very  rapid 
in  action  rendering 
them  particularly  val¬ 
uable  for  instantane¬ 
ous  and  short-time 
exposures  ;  are  rigid¬ 
ly  rectilinear  and 
symmetrical ;  possess 
wonderful  penetra- 
5x4.  Actual  Size.  tion  and  definition, 

and  are  the  lightest 

and  most  compact  of  any  lenses  in  the  market — a  matter  of  no  small  mo¬ 
ment  to  the  landscape  photographer.  The  No.  5  Lens  will  make  life-size 
heads,  sharp  and  free  from  distortion.  They  are  in  use  in  many  of  the 
leading  galleries  of  the  country. 


No. 

Size  of 
Plate. 

Diameter 
of  Lenses. 

Back 

Focus. 

Equiv’lent 

Focus. 

Angle. 

Price. 

1 

3^x4^ 

%  in. 

4^  in- 

5  in. 

75° 

$25  00 

2 

4^x5^ 

1  in. 

6  in. 

6%  in. 

70° 

30  00 

3 

5  x8 

13 4  in. 

8  in. 

8 %  in. 

64° 

35  00 

4 

6^x8^ 

1%  in. 

IO14  in. 

11  in. 

67° 

45  00 

5 

8  xlO 

1%  in. 

mi  in. 

13  in. 

66° 

60  00 

6 

10  xl2 

2  in. 

144^  in. 

16  in. 

66° 

75  00 

7 

11  xl4 

21^  in. 

16% in. 

18  in. 

66° 

100  00 

8 

14  xl7 

3  in. 

22  in. 

24  in. 

66° 

160  00 

9 

20  x22 

Win. 

27^  in. 

30  in3 

66° 

200  00 

i  j  / 

I 

jj  j  jJ '  1  i J  1 

J  J  JJJ  J 

30 


SCOVXLL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


STEINHEIL  LENSES. 


Quality  not  quantity  governs  in  determining  the  price  of  lenses.  By 
an  examination  of  the  following  price  list,  which  supercedes  all  previous 
ones,  it  will  be  seen  that  Steinheil  lenses  are  sold  lower  than  any  first-class 
lenses  with  which  alone  they  may  be  compared.  The  introduction  of 
Steinheil  lenses  marked  an  important  advance  in  photographic  optics. 


[HOW  TO  SELECT  A  STEINHEIL  LENS. 

In  order  to  meet  the  various  requirements,  and  to  insure  in  each  special 
case  as  perfect  work  as  possible,  we  make  lenses  of  different  construc¬ 
tions. 

Our  lenses  are  divided  into  six  series ,  presented  in  the  order  of  their 
respective  rapidities.  Each  series  begins  with  No.  1  for  the  smallest  size, 
and  continues  upwards.  To  avoid  errors,  it  is  therefore  necessary  in 
ordering  to  quote  both  the  number  of  the  series  and  the  number  of  the 
lens  in  the  present  catalogue. 

All  our  lenses  are  rectilinear  and  are  strictly  corrected  for  spherical 
errors  and  chemical  focus. 

They  are  free  from  disturbing  reflections,  and  strongly  illuminated  ob¬ 
jects  can  be  taken  with  them  without  producing  flare  or  light  spots.  They 
are,  moreover,  constructed  so  as  to  give  the  greatest  possible  equality  of 
definition  over  the  whole  picture. 

In  focusing  with  these  lenses,  it  is  advisable  to  use  the  largest  stop, 
even  when  it  is  intended  to  work  with  the  smallest. 

The  scientific  basis  of  our  establishment  and  the  precise  methods  em¬ 
ployed  both  in  the  manufacture  of  our  astronomical  and  photographic  ap¬ 
paratus,  enable  us  to  produce  lenses  of  such  uniform  acccuracy,  that  the* 
means  of  most  vigorous  testing  at  our  command  fail  to  reveal  any  differ¬ 
ences  in  the  instruments  we  send  out. 

We  make  it  a  special  point  never  to  supply  a  lens  which  is  capable  of 
mprovement  at  our  hands. 

According  to  the  principle  involved  in  their  construction,  our  lenses 
consist  chiefly  of  two  classes,  viz.:  A ntiplanatic  and  Aplanatic. 


Antiplanatic  Lenses. 

(U.  S.  Patent  Nos.  841,437-’8.) 

Briefly  stated,  these  lenses  which  are  the  result  of  a  series  of  calcula¬ 
tions  extending  through  several  years,  are  composed  of  two  non-svmmet- 
rical  combinations  each  of  as  great  but  opposite  faults  as  possible,  which 
correct  each  other.  One  combination  has  a  shorter  focus  than  the  objec¬ 
tive  as  a  whole,  and  the  other  has  a  negative  focus.  The  combinations 
are  placed  very  closely  together. 

By  the  peculiar  construction,  as  described  above,  differing  widely  from 
the  usual  forms,  it  has  been  possible  to  correct  to  a  considerable  extent 
the  hitherto  greatest  defect  in  photographic  objectives,  viz.,  “Astigmat¬ 
ism,”  and  the  consequent  rapid  decrease  of  definition  from  the  center  to 
the  margin  of  the  picture. 

The  result  is  greater  sharpness  and  depth  distributed  more  equally  over 
a  larger  and  strictly  even  picture,  before  any  decrease  in  definition  is  per¬ 
ceptible. 

Illumination,  too,  is  more  evenly  distributed  in  consequence  of  lenses 
being  proportionately  nearer  together 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


31 


These  properties  allow  the  lenses  to  be  worked  with  full  aperture  or 
large  stops,  and  gives  them  great  rapidity  of  action. 

The  perfectly  correct  delineation  produced  by  the  antiplanets  render 
them  particularly  suitable  for  enlargements  as  well  as  for  dissolving  view 
apparatus. 

If  small  and  sharp  originals  are  taken,  and  subsequently  enlarged, 
depths  are  obtained  which  would  be  unattainable  in  larger  pictures  taken 
direct  with  same  amount  of  light.  For  this  purpose,  which  will  probably 
play  an  important  part  in  photography,  the  antiplanets  are  specially  suit¬ 
able. 

In  making  enlargements  the  front  lens  of  the  antiplanets  should  always 
be  turned  towards  the  enlarged  picture,  and  the  back  lens  towards  the  ob¬ 
ject  to  be  enlarged. 

This  construction  is  designed  for  strictly  even  and  correctly  deline¬ 
ated  pictures,  and  all  tilting  of  the  camera  should  be  decidedly  avoided 
and  a  movable  lens  board  used  instead. 

The  antiplanets  are  made  in  two  series  :  The  portrait  antiplanets 
(Series  I.)  and  the  group  antiplanets  (Series  II.),  the  latter  being,  however, 
also  excellent  dry  plate  portrait  lenses. 


Aplanatic  Lenses. 


These  lenses  consist  of  the  original  and  now  well-known  symmetrical 
and  rectilinear  combinations.  They  are  made  in  four  series,  each  of 
which  is  especially  designed  for  a  certain  class  of  work.  Their  capabili¬ 
ties  and  object  are  fully  explained  below. 

The  lenses  of  Series  V.,  also  Series  III.,  No.  1;  Series  IV.,  Nos.  1  and 
2  have  rotary  diaphragms. 

All  the  other  lenses  are  furnished  with  Waterhouse  diaphragms  in 
morocco  case. 


STEINHEIL  LENSES. 


Series  II. — Patent  Antiplanatic  Group  Lens. 

New  in  principle  and  con¬ 
struction,  consisting  of  two 
non-symmetrical  cemented 
pairs,  placed  so  closely  to¬ 
gether,  that  there  is  only  just 
room  for  the  diaphragm.  It 
is  rectilinear,  and  is  remark¬ 
able  for  its  powerful  and 
even  illumination  and  depth 
^  of  focus.  In  rapidity,  it  is 
only  excelled  by  the  regular 
and  expensive  portrait  com¬ 
binations.  Designed  for  Portraits ,  Groups,  Architecture ,  Landscape ,  In¬ 
stantaneous  Work  and  Enlargements. 


32 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


Series  II. — Patent  Antiplanatic  Group  Lenses. 


No. 

Aperture, 

Inches. 

Focal 

Length, 

Inches. 

Size  of  Portraits 
or  Groups, 
Inches. 

Size  of  View  or 
Landscape, 
Inches. 

Price. 

1 . 

11-16 

3% 

3%x  3% 

4%x  3% 

$21  00 

2 . 

1 

5% 

4%x  3% 

5x4 

28  00 

3 . 

1  5-16 

7  % 

5  x  4 

7x5 

37  00 

4 . 

1  11-16 

9% 

7x5 

8%x  6% 

48  00 

5’ . 

10% 

8%x  6% 

10  x  8 

60  00 

6 . 

2% 

14% 

10  x  8 

12  xlO 

95  00 

7 . 

3  1-16 

12  xlO 

15  xl2 

140  00 

Price  for  two  identical  combinations  for  Stereo  Work,  No.  1,  $44; 
No.  2,  $60  ;  No.  3,  $77. 

Detective  camera  lens  of  this  series,  focus  about  4%  inches,  now  in 
preparation. 


Series  III. — Aplanatic  Lens. 


The  prototype  of  all  rapid 
symmetrical  and  rectilinear 
lenses.  Is  now  made  with 
increased  illumination  and 
rapidity.  Next  to  the  Anti¬ 
planatic  Group  Lens,  Series 
II.,  it  is  the  best  lens  for 
general  work.  Designed  for 
Portraits ,  Groups ,  Architec¬ 
ture ,  Landscape  and  Instan¬ 
taneous  Work. 


No. 

Aperture. 

Inches. 

Focal 

Length, 

Inches. 

Size  of  Portraits 
or  Groups, 
Inches. 

Size  of  View  or 
Landscape, 
Inches. 

Price. 

1 . 

% 

L58 

For  en 

larging, 

$  18  00 

2 . 

H 

3^ 

3%x  3% 

4%x  3% 

18  00 

3 . 

l 

5% 

4%x  3% 

5%x  4% 

25  00 

4 . 

iM 

7% 

5%x  4% 

7x5 

32  00 

5 . 

1  11-16 

11 

8%x  6% 

10  x  8 

44  00 

6 . 

2  1-16 

14% 

10  x  8 

12  xlO 

57  00 

7 . 

2% 

17% 

12  xlO 

14  xll 

86  00 

8 . 

2  15-16 

21  3-16 

17  xl4 

20  xl7 

125  00 

9 . 

3  7-16 

25 

20  xl7 

22  xl8 

166  00 

10 . 

4  9-16 

33 

22  x!8 

24  x20 

245  00 

Price  for  two  identical  combinations  for  Stereo  Work,  No.  2,  $38  ; 
No.  3,  $52  ;  No.  4,  $67. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


33 


Series  IV. — Landscape  Aplanats. 


Angle  about  75  deg.,  and 
covering  a  larger  field  than 
the  lenses  of  Series  III. 
Specially  designed  for 
Landscape  Work  and  Archi¬ 
tecture ,  but  can  also  be  ad¬ 
vantageously  used  for  Copy¬ 
ing. 


No. 

Aperture. 

Inches. 

Focal 

Length. 

Inches. 

Size  of 

Full  ApeVture. 
Inches. 

Picture, 
Smallest  Stop. 
Inches. 

Price. 

1 . 

3-16 

2% 

2  xl% 

3x2% 

$18  00 

2 . 

3-8 

2%x2 

4x3 

21  00 

3 . 

/  % 

ter  m 

3%x3 

6x5 

26  00 

4 . 

% 

6% 

5  x4 

8x6 

32  00 

5  . 

1 

934 

7  x5% 

11x8 

44  00 

6 . 

134 

15% 

10  x8 

14x11 

86  00 

7 . 

mo2% 

23% 

14  xll 

20x16 

160  00 

It  is  frequently  desirable  to  get  a  landscape  from  a  given  point  and  to 
get  it  just  of  the  size  to  cover  your  plate,  or  of  any  other  given  size  with¬ 
out  changing  your  position.  This  can  only  be  accomplished  by  using  ob¬ 
jectives  of  different  foci,  by  which  you  can  reduce  or  enlarge  the  image  at 
will.  For  this  work  we  have  arranged  a  Set  of  Four  Landscape  Aplanats , 
fitting  in  the  same  flange,  aperture  1  in.,  and  foci  respectively  9%,  12%, 
15%  and  19  ins.,  covering  7x5%  ins.  with  full  aperture,  and  11x8 ins.  with 
smallest  stop.  Price,  in  neat  lock-up  case,  $168. 

Sets  of  any  number  and  class  of  aplanats  made  to  order  at  proportion¬ 
ate  prices. 


Series  V. — Wide-Angle  Aplanat. 


The  proportionately  short 
focus  and  large  angle  (about 
100  deg.)  of  these  lenses  make 
them  particularly  adapted  for 
Interiors ,  Architecture ,  and  for 
very  high,  broad  objects  taken 
from  short  distances. 


No 

Aperture. 

Inches. 

1 . 

3-16 

2 . 

5-16 

3 . 

7-16 

4 . 

9-16 

5 . 

14-16 

Focal 

Length. 

Inches. 

Size  of 

Sharp  Pictures. 
Inches. 

Price. 

3% 

5  x5 

$26  00 

4% 

7  x7 

30  00 

% 

10%xl0% 

42  00 

10% 

12%xl2% 

61  00 

16 

1834x18% 

93  00 

Special  quotations  for  larger  sizes. 


34 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


Loss  Rapid  Symmetrical  Lenses, 

FITTED  WITH  WATERHOUSE  DIAPHRAGMS. 


Size  of  View. 

Size  of  Group. 

Diameter. 

Equiv.  Focus. 

Price. 

4x5 

3Mx  4J* 

1  inch. 

6  inch. 

$34  00 

4Kx  ?34 

4  x  5 

134  “ 

“ 

42  00 

5x8 

7% 

1%  “ 

834  “ 

46  00 

6^x  sy2 

5x8 

“ 

u 

52  00 

8  xlO 

6^x  sy 

m  “ 

13 

68  00 

10  xl2 

8  xlO 

2 

16 

84  00 

11  xlB 

9  xll 

234  “ 

18 

92  00 

12  xl5 

11  xl4 

234  “ 

20 

116  00 

16  xl8 

12  xl5 

3 

24 

148  00 

18  x22 

16  xl8 

334  “ 

30 

200  00 

22  x25 

18  x22 

4 

34 

240  00 

These  lenses  are  free  from  “flare”  and  distortion,  and  give  absolutely 
straight  marginal  lines,  rendering  them  invaluable  for  all  kinds  of  archi¬ 
tectural  subjects,  dimly-lighted  interiors,  copying,  and  instantaneous 
work. 


Ross  Portable  Symmetrical  Lenses. 

For  landscapes,  architecture  or  copying  ;  giving  wide  or  ordinary  angles, 
according  to  the  stop  used.  A  great  favorite  with  English  amateurs. 
Unequaled  for  photographic  work. 


No. 

Large  Stop. 

Med.  Stop. 

Small  Stop. 

Equiv. 

Focus. 

Price. 

a  3 

4 

x  5 

4Wx  734 

5 

x  8 

5  i 

nch. 

$28 

00 

a  4 

4Mx  7V, 

5 

x  8 

,  634x  SX 

6 

4  4 

32 

00 

5 

5 

x  8 

6 Kx  8H 

7 

x  9 

7 

40 

00 

6 

634x  834 

7 

x  9 

8 

xlO 

8 

(  i 

48 

00 

7 

7 

x  9 

8 

xlO 

10 

xl2 

9 

<  < 

56 

00 

8 

8 

xlO 

10 

xl2 

11 

xl4 

10 

ri - 

64 

00 

9 

10 

xl2 

11 

xl4 

12 

x!5 

12 

<  < 

72 

00 

10 

11 

xl4 

12 

xl5 

16 

xl8 

15 

80 

00 

11 

12 

xl5 

16 

xl8 

18 

x22 

18 

i  ( 

96 

00 

12 

16 

xl8 

20 

x22 

21 

x25 

21 

120 

00 

SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


35 


Darlot  Hemispherical  Wide-Angle  Rectilinear  View  Lenses. 


These  Lenses  embrace  an  angle  of  90  degrees,  and 
are  valuable  for  taking  views  of  buildings,  interiors, 
etc.,  in  confined  situations,  where  those  of  longer 
_  focus  cannot  be  used. 

Back  Focus.  Size  View.  Price. 

No.  1,  24  inches . For  Stereoscopic  Work,  each  . . .  .$12  50 

“  2,  3  “  .  “  “  “  .  15  00 

“  3,  5  “  .  8  x  10 .  20  00 

“  4  8  “  . 10  x  12  . .  25  00 


Darlot  Rapid  Hemispherical  Yiew  Lenses. 

These  Lenses  embrace  an  angle  of  from  60  to  75  degrees;  are 
quick-acting,  perfectly  rectilinear,  and  provided  with  central  stops. 
Will  be  found  very  fine  lenses  for  landscape  and  outdoor  groups  ; 
also  for  copying  engravings,  maps,  architectural  subjects,  etc. 


Back  Focus. 

1,  54  inches . 

Size  View. 

.  5  x  6 . 

Price. 

. $15  00 

2  9  “ 

.  25  00 

3’,  104  “  . . 

.  8  x  10 . 

.  35  00 

No.  1  can  be  had  in 

matched  pairs  for  Stereoscopic  work. 

Swill's  “Peerless”  Quick  Acting  Stereoscopic  Lenses, 

FOR  PORTRAITURE  OR  VIEWS. 

The  Lenses  are  especially  designed  for  Stereoscopic  Photography,  and 
are  so  constructed  that  they  will  work  well  for  interiors  or  exteriors. 

They  are  particularly  adapted  for  instantaneous  work. 

Diameter  of  Lenses,  1}4  inch  ;  focal  length,  3J4  inches. 

By  removing  the  back  lens  and  substituting  the  front  combination,  a 
focal  length  of  534  inches  is  obtained. 

They  are  supplied  with  six  Waterhouse  diaphragms  in  morocco  case. 

Price,  per  pair . .  $25  00 

Imitation  Dallmeyer  Lens . per  pair,  9  50 

Lenses,  matched  for  Stereoscopic  Work,  “  17  00 


36 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


Eastman- Walker  Roll  Holders. 


Patented  May  5,  1885.  Label  Registered,  1885. 


Fitting  Roll  Holders. 

We  can  fit  Roll  Holders  to  the  standard  Cameras.  An  extra  charge 
is  made  for  this  in  all  cases  except  when  the  holder  is  sold  with  the 
camera.  In  ordering  roll  holders  for  old  cameras  it  is  advisable  to  send 
the  camera  or  one  of  the  double  holders  to  the  factory  to  serve  as  a  pattern. 
Where  this  is  impracticable  on  account  of  distance  or  otherwise,  give  full 
particulars  as  to  make  and  name  of  camera  and  outside  dimensions. 

Each  Roll-Holder  has  the  non-detachable  key  and  Scovill  patent  auto¬ 
matic  tally. 

No  Roll-Holder  is  complete  without  this  tally. 


x  4M-  •  •  .$12  00 

4  x  5  ...  15  00 

4M  x  6 34. . . .  17  50 

*4%  x  734. . . .  20  00 

5  x  7  ....  20  00 
f5  x  7^. . . .  20  00 


5  x  8.  . .$20  00 

x  %%  24  00 

8  x  10. ..  80  00 

10  x  12.. .  36  00 

11  x  14. . .  42  00 

14  x  17. . .  50  00 


16 

X 

20  . 

. . .$60 

00 

17 

X 

20  . 

...65 

00 

18 

X 

22  . 

...75 

00 

20 

X 

24  . 

...80 

00 

25 

X 

80  . 

...  85 

00 

*  This  size  is  made  for  5x8  Cameras  that  are  too  small  for  our  regular  5x8  holder, 
viz.:  Scovill’s ’76,  and  Waterbury.  +  English  sizes.  }  Visible  indicator  only. 


All  sizes  of  Roll  Holders  up  to  and  including'  11  x  14  carried  in 
stock.  Larger  sizes  to  order. 


We  send  out  with  every  Roll  Holder  a  spool  of  plain  paper,  to 
enable  the  operator  to  learn  to  manipulate  it  in  the  white  light. 


SCOVILL’S  AMATEUR  SPECIALTIES. 


37 


Roll  Holders.  — Extra  Parts. 

All  parts  of  Roll  Holders  are  made  interchangeable,  and  any  part  can 
be  furnished  on  application. 


Extra  Keys, 

old  model..  . 

each. 

334  inches.  . .  . 

EXTRA 

REELS. 

11  inches.  . .  . 

. $1  00 

4  “  . 

. 50  “ 

14  “  .... 

.  1  00 

16  “  _ 

.  1  25 

^/2  . 

4  %  “  . 

.  ...50  “ 

17  “  .... 

. 1  25 

5  “  . 

. 50  “ 

18  “  .... 

6  34  “  ••• 

. 75  “ 

20  “  .... 

.  1  50 

8 

25  “  _ 

.  2  00 

10  “  . 

.  ...75  “ 

Extra  Reels  enable  the  operator  to  remove  the  exposed  paper  from  the 
roll  holder  without  separating  the  exposures  or  rewinding  the  paper  film, 
an  operation  that  should  always  be  avoided.  Enough  extra  reels  should 
be  provided  to  carry  all  exposures  that  are  intended  to  be  made  before  de¬ 
veloping.  For  instance,  if  100  exposures  are  to  be  made  on  a  trip,  3  extra 
reels  are  required.  Each  reel,  as  soon  as  full,  is  removed  from  the  holder 
and  replaced  by  another  to  take  the  paper  from  a  fresh  spool.  The  boxes 
in  which  the  spools  are  sold  serve  to  store  the  reels  of  exposed  paper. 
Empty  spools  are  thrown  away. 

Film  Carriers. 


thick. 


I  in.  in. 
thick,  thick. 


3>4  x 

434. 

.$0  25 

$0  25 

4  x 

5  . 

.  30 

30 

_ 

4%  * 

634- 

.  30 

— 

— 

5  x 

7  . 

.  35 

— 

35 

5  x 

734. 

.  35 

— 

— 

5  x 

8  . 

.  35 

35 

35 

634  x 

8*. 

.  40 

40 

40 

ft  m. 
thick. 
$0  50 


thick. 
$0  50 
60 
75 

1  00 


Patented  May  5,  1885. 

A  in- 

thick. 

8  x  10. .$0  50 

10x12..  — 

11x14..  — 

14x17..  — 

16x20..  — 

18x22..  — 

20  x  24..  — 

Sizes  not  mentioned  are  not  made  and  cannot  be  furnished. 

In  ordering  carriers  specify  which  thickness  is  wanted.  The  thicker 
the  carrier  the  more  rigid. 

Double  Holders  that  have  the  plate  slide  in  from  the  end  require  the 


i  in 
thick. 


$1  25 
1  50 
1  75 


thinest  carrier,  (-&).  ,  , 

The  Daisy  Holder  will  take  the  |  inch  carriers  when  the  septum  is  re¬ 
moved.  As  the  carriers  are  opaque,  the  septum  is  not  required. 

Wet  Plate  Holders  require  the  carriers. 


SCOVILL  M’F’G  CO.,  Publishers. 


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